Rototilling
- Thread starter SouthernX
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Gary Fowler
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- Jun 23, 2008
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- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
I think I will stick to my 8 foot disc and make 2 passes at 5 mph=2.5 acres per hour double cut. It may not be as thoroughly pulverized as a tiller but it will be just as efficient for growing a plant and my diesel bill will be about 1/4 of the cost of tilling. Plus rocks dont break the dics blades like they do the tines on a tiller and I have some nice rocks that grow and multipy on my place.
Can you tell me a little more about discing vs. rototilling? Are you talking about smooth disks or disks with "teeth"?
Either one. (smooth or tooth) The ones with teeth are able to cut harder soils.
Thing with a disc is that you do need to come back with a spring tooth harrow or similar to bust up the clods. You may also have to mow it down tighter and it is harder to turn over growth. So, you may have to use a bottom plow first, then the disc then the harrow to get the same field conditions as the tiller.
Biggest plus with a disc is the rocks don't beat the snot out of them so bad. Then again, smaller rocks (6-8" and smaller) will get shot out and lay on the surface after tilling so if you want to get rid of them the tiller helps.
It's sort of a 6 vs half dozen thing. Each has it's own strengths and advantages.
jb
Thing with a disc is that you do need to come back with a spring tooth harrow or similar to bust up the clods. You may also have to mow it down tighter and it is harder to turn over growth. So, you may have to use a bottom plow first, then the disc then the harrow to get the same field conditions as the tiller.
Biggest plus with a disc is the rocks don't beat the snot out of them so bad. Then again, smaller rocks (6-8" and smaller) will get shot out and lay on the surface after tilling so if you want to get rid of them the tiller helps.
It's sort of a 6 vs half dozen thing. Each has it's own strengths and advantages.
jb