Help!

[canoetrpr]

Not quite sure how I managed to do this but my worst nightmare has come to pass.

I was working on getting my 150 hr service done today - basically oil and filter change. I've done two before - how hard can this be to screw up? Apparently not too hard!

I losen the bolts, drain the oil, go to tighten the bolts.

I decided that I really ought to start using my torque wrench to torque bolts instead of just winging it. I get the service manual out and it specifies the torque for the bolt (based on size and type). I come up with 50 ft lbs for the oil drain pan bolts.

I put the first one on, torque it, it clicks no problem.

Second one... not so easy, I put it on, tighten, tighten... I wonder why its not clicking... next thing I know, the tightness reduces and now I have a bolt that just spins in there once it is flush.

I'm not really sure what I did here. I'm not sure if it was cross threaded - pretty sure it wasn't, or if I over-tightend on a previous occasion and it just gave way now.

Boy this is a pain in the rear - particularly since I had my torque wrench out and was trying to do everything by the book.

I need some help trying to get this sorted out. I'm not sure if one should go about fixing this by re-tapping the bad hole to a slightly larger size and replacing with a larger bolt, or by just replacing the oil pan.

I noticed that the oil pan can come off. I'm trying to figure out exactly how. I figure that I will be better off working on this on a work table instead of under the tractor. There are about 12 bolts on it which I can take off easily enough. However, there is a Propeller Shaft that goes to the front axle that is under the oil pan and will prevent it from coming off. I am in the process of studying the service manual to figure out how to detach this so that I can get the oil pan off to work on it.

I sure hope that I am not the first guy to have run into this problem. Hoping some one here can help point me in the right direction.

If you have a guess as to what might have caused my mess do let me know as well as I am still scratching my head at this point.

 

[kennyd]

Boy that REALLY sucks!

First, on the torque wrench thing-I believe what got you is the fact that the pan is thin, so the few threads that are there could not take the max torque.

I think you are also doing the right thing by removing the pan to work on it, and I would take tomorrow off and call your dealer Monday to check the price of a pan-after that figure is determined we can plan the next course of action.

 

[JoelD]

I've not experienced the same thing but stripped many a bolt.

If it were me, I'd tap it in place, would just go up one size and I would imagine all would be good.

Shavings will want to drop out with gravity, I'd use a small magnet to clean up inside the hole when you are done.

I would try this prior to replacing the pan, just take a good look inside to be sure you'r not going to hit anything with the tap.

As this is only holding oil in, with no preasure or anything of that sort I'll bet you'll be no worse for wear.

Wonder if your torque setting was off?

I tend to only torque head bolts and lug nuts.

Good luck, could've been worse, could've lost oil while operating.

Joel

 

[crbr]

I hope you get this resolved easily. I too would likely try and swallow the bitter pill of a new pan, but I am one **** person when it comes to things like this.

I will say this as my own opinion; 50 foot-lbs. of torque on a thin-walled pan (as a general description) is a lot of torque. I do realize you were reading the manual but dang that is a lot of torque for that. Maybe I am wrong about that and just don't realize it.

I'll change all of my filters and fluids in the next day or so and the plugs will be snug-tight + a slight, firm turn.

Again, best of luck. It's just a small thing in the big picture.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Get the plug out and if you are lucky you striped the bolt and not the pan. If the pan is striped I would remove the pan and tap it to the next drain plug size. Probably what caused the problem is the where the drain plug threads into the pan it is only 1/4"thick. When you tried to torqued it to the torque of the bolt the nut wasnt strong enough.
Bill

 

[sandman2234]

Weld a nut over the hole with the same thread as the existing hole. You will need to drill out the old threads, so the drain plug doesn't try to start into those threads. Tig might be the best way, and I would consider dropping a hose emitting "inert" gas down the oil filler to prevent their being enough oxygen to allow a fire, in case the oil wanted to start burning. A water hose on the other end of the pan to reduce temp might also be an idea.
Removal of the pan makes the cleanup and prep for the weld a lot easier, and reduces the risk of fire.
Unless there are other problems with the pan, I wouldn't replace it, as it appears that with your luck, you would just strip out the new one.
David from jax

 

[Mike Costello]

Another approach is to use a self tapping oil drain plug, which will cut new threads as it is screwed into the oil pan. The trick is to make sure the plug is started straight and work slowly. Also toss the nylon washer the plug comes with and replace it with a brass washer for a better seal.

 

[L4400]

It's a hassle to pull the pan, but you'll be better off doing so. You wouldn't want to chance damaging the engine with any shavings left over. Just a couple of years ago, I wiped a camshaft in an old car we have. I just replaced the cam, thinking that the filter would pick up all the metal. About 200 miles later, I spun a rod bearing. If I had just taken the time to pull it down and clean it, it may have not happened.

 

[JoelD]

Obviously these guys are correct about pulling the pan, I've got a bad habbit of taking short cuts.

Good luck,

Agreed, in the scheme of things there are bigger problems to have, but does not help with the frustration of this one.

Joel

 

[canoetrpr]

Will call dealer on Monday and price out a new pan.

Oddly enough tractorsmart does not seem to be able to tell me the price given a part number. I found a used one online for $72 - just by searching for the part number.

Now I've got to figure out how to get this dang propeller shaft off.

Guess you guys are right. I never thought about the fact that general settings on a torque chart ought not to apply to a oil pan that is quarter inch thick. I should have just been hand tightining an then adding a half a turn or a rule of thumb like that.

Live and learn I guess. Hopefully that is the last oil pan I buy.