Help!

[3RRL]

canoe,
I'd go with the self tapping oversized plug and use an "O" ring under it ... call it good.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would tap it to a standard plumbing plug size like 1/2" or 3/4". Just be aware it takes a special tapered tap to do this properly available at plumbing supply stores.

The other option is to drill out the hole and weld on nuts to the outside of the pan to accept a common size drain plug. Tig welding would be best or even brazing.

Chris

 

[dodge man]

I have used helicoils before, and they work really well. The last time I bought one it was only $40-$50, but thats been over 15 years ago. At that time I tried to find someone that had the size I needed, didn't have any luck. I can tell you, the helicoil will take the least amount of effort, maybe a 10 minute job.

 

[mattman]

I would have took my drain plug down to the auto parts store got the next two oversized oil plugs and see which one had the best feel when threading them in. If you strip out the drain plug on a car or truck that is what just about everybody does. How often do you change the oil in your tractor 2 times a year? The oversized drain plug will not have any problems wanting to fall out on you. If feel that you could cause an oil leak at the oil pan gasket that would be alot worse than if the oversized drain plug did seep a little over time. I have not ever torqued an oil pan drain plug, just snug it up and away you go. The drain plug does not have to be tight like a nug nut. The drain plug in not under anykind of load. All the drain plug does in stop up a hole. My 2 cents

 

[LBrown59]

I would have took my drain plug down to the auto parts store got the next two oversized oil plugs and see which one had the best feel when threading them in. If you strip out the drain plug on a car or truck that is what just about everybody does. How often do you change the oil in your tractor 2 times a year? The oversized drain plug will not have any problems wanting to fall out on you. If feel that you could cause an oil leak at the oil pan gasket that would be alot worse than if the oversized drain plug did seep a little over time. I have not ever torqued an oil pan drain plug, just snug it up and away you go. The drain plug does not have to be tight like a nug nut. The drain plug in not under anykind of load. *All the drain plug does in stop up a hole. My 2 cents

*It's been my experence not to tighten drain plugs to tight as they seem to tighten up more as time goes by making them difficult to get out later.
I just snug them up and not overly so.

 

[JoelD]

Take your pan to a good local hardware store, good sized ACE stores usually have real good selection of bolts, my local store has a fantastic selection. I am fairly certain you'll find what you need there, I always have. Home Depot also has a good selection.

I would much rather tap than use self tapping or coil.

Good luck,
Joel

 

[JMynes]

Now that the pan is off, weld a "patch" over the stripped hole, then drill and tap for the plug of your choice.

 

[Scooby074]

Pan is off, so id weld a appropriate sized nut on the inside and use the original bolt.

Just curious.. what kind of torque wrench were you using. Ive seen cheap torque wrenches not click when they were supposed too resulting in overtorqued bolts and much cursing. Cheap torque wrenches can be worse than no torque wrench at all.

The other thing might be as was said earlier Newton metres vs ft lbs.(metric vs standard)

 

[canoetrpr]

Scooby, my problem here I think was that I should have just known that the general purpose torque specs in the manual just does_not_apply to a steel bolt going into an alloy oil pan.

I re-checked and the torque was right for that size and type of bolt as per the manual. However, I think the manual assumes that you just *know* that those torque specs don't apply to a drain bolt.

Now I know the hard way :-(.

I do have to admit that my torque wrench is a 3/8 PowerFist one. I believe that it does check out and clicks appropriately. It is of the micrometer type.

I wandered over to the Lowes and Princess Auto here and didn't quite find much selection in bolts that could be used as drain bolt. Tonight my wife pretty much talked me into biting the bullet and just getting a new oil pan. I think she mainly wants to ensure that I can move the hay out on the weekend and that I put my mind back on work where it belongs

 

[Scooby074]

Usually the section of the service manual that deals with oil change will have the specific torque spec for the drain bolt ( if its different from standard values), either in the instructions or in a list at the end of the chapter. Im not familiar with the Kubota manuals so YMMV.

The torque wrench that gave me fits was a PAuto 3/8 one too

Your local auto parts or machine shop should be able to get you a 12mm? nut if you have access to a welder. Just take the bolt with you to match threads. Most box stores are lacking in metric selection. You could weld that nut in place in under 20 mins. Might save you a couple hundred bucks.