Just get the cheapest Glyphosate you can - meaning that you compare the concentration %'s when you do that. The knockoff glyphosate is effective enough. It kills almost any vegetation by contact.
In my case I make a concentration a little stronger than what is called, basically because I apply it all by walking with a sprayer and I don't want to do it twice. I use the strongest concentration - defined for a few list of vegetation that is somewhat harder to kill - and slightly over-concentrate from that point. This is just my personal approach. It works for me and you can find another approach that works for you.
If I had hundreds of acres to kill, using a tractor or such, I would identify the vegetation specifically and then mix exactly according to instruction for that vegetation.
For whatever reason, there is no magic needed in my particular application. It just needs 2 days without rain. You spray it onto leaves and it kills. I have experienced rain happening 12 hours after application and the kill worked just fine. In fact, you should check your label to see what the spec is for the length of time of no rain. I can do this in the middle of winter, or in the middle of summer, or now in spring. The kill works regardless of season. It probably kills faster during spring.
Now ... on the other hand ... my wife has weed-wacked some weeds about 20 minutes after I applied the killer. The weeds survived. So it just demonstrates how the killer needs to have contact with leaves for awhile as the plant circulation spreads the killing effect.
This is my weed killer of choice. I do not think it hurts the environment at all, itself. Naturally, if you kill weeds on a slope and therefore loose runoff control, you have not applied the weed killer in a smart way. But I am saying that the chemicals themselves are not negative to the environment. I believe that the chemicals disintegrate very quickly and leave no after-effect. I do NOT believe the same things about the other soil sterilants.
There's my $.02.