Here is a photo of the mower as used for 15 minutes today, I had most of the set-up prepared yesterday and just made final tightening of the fixing today. I was very keen to just run the mower today as I had never heard/seen it run, so just getting to the point of trying it out was high on the priority list.
It works extremely well to my eyes and ears, quiet, smooth and efficient, can't really ask for more (except maybe the correct set of arms!). It's the first time I have used a 3 point link and the first to tow a mower, my previous experience was with the mmm for 2 years.
The differences as they appear to me are - on a highish cut it took off the top of the grass and rolled the lower part flat. Once the cut was lowered it cut everything was very uniform and even spaying the finely cut grass out of the back. I have left the back open to ensure that not too much grass collects in the mower. It appears to use less power than the 3 rotor Kubota mmm. This was after mowing some thick/lush 12" high grass that would have slowed the mmm considerably, but had little effect with the flail. So for us as we are here only every 3 or 4 weeks or so it is a massive advantage.
Turning was difficult, due in part to no front weights (bought some today and will bring them with on our next visit). Have attached a 53# concrete block to the front, a little inelegant but made a fair difference. Will be fitting a set of 100# weights later.
I also felt that the agility even with the correct weight on the front will be no where as good as a mmm, so the mowing pattern has to change to allow for that.
Going back to turning and taking a point that Bill made. When turning, the mower was part of the problem of losing some steerage. This was seen by stopping in mid turn and lifting the mower, it would jump about 9" sideways every time even though the turns were quite gentle.
Overall I am very pleased and feel it's the right choice for our use, the rear roller will make a big difference as there are thoudands of cattle hoof prints in the ground and I hope they will in time disappear.
Have taken all that has been advised so far and decided to try to implement most of the things suggested by Monday, I don't get a lot of time to sort this out as we are here for such a short time and there's plenty to do elsewhere.
One thing that was in the parts catalogue is an optional front wheel set, I wonder if it will smooth out the turning problem by taking some of the weight off of the tractor and smoothing the turn out?
From the photo below it's possible to see that that the attachments are now on 2 & 3, so the next step is to try to invert (thanks) the brackets to see if it is possible to fit to 1 & 3.
The rear mower arms are a problem. Out of the photo (sorry) they end between the front arms. It appears the correct position is outside of these arms. If I try (without altering the angles of the bends) to fit them at 1&3 they will cross over, so until I can get them to my friend they have to live where they are but maybe adjusted with bolts and washers to the best position for the front arms on 1&3.
The vertical lifting arms on the tractor are bent, but have to say that's how I bought the tractor with them so. That doesn't mean that they wont get worse but so far it is the same as before.
The lower lifting arms can't splay out further due to brackets at their start point, the purpose of which is to locate and activate the lift for the mmm, so once that's removed (next week) they will travel a bit further before the check link stops them.
If you have read this far you are heroic, but I do feel that all of you have helped so much in making me see it as it is with some great advice
Thank you
Jamie
It works extremely well to my eyes and ears, quiet, smooth and efficient, can't really ask for more (except maybe the correct set of arms!). It's the first time I have used a 3 point link and the first to tow a mower, my previous experience was with the mmm for 2 years.
The differences as they appear to me are - on a highish cut it took off the top of the grass and rolled the lower part flat. Once the cut was lowered it cut everything was very uniform and even spaying the finely cut grass out of the back. I have left the back open to ensure that not too much grass collects in the mower. It appears to use less power than the 3 rotor Kubota mmm. This was after mowing some thick/lush 12" high grass that would have slowed the mmm considerably, but had little effect with the flail. So for us as we are here only every 3 or 4 weeks or so it is a massive advantage.
Turning was difficult, due in part to no front weights (bought some today and will bring them with on our next visit). Have attached a 53# concrete block to the front, a little inelegant but made a fair difference. Will be fitting a set of 100# weights later.
I also felt that the agility even with the correct weight on the front will be no where as good as a mmm, so the mowing pattern has to change to allow for that.
Going back to turning and taking a point that Bill made. When turning, the mower was part of the problem of losing some steerage. This was seen by stopping in mid turn and lifting the mower, it would jump about 9" sideways every time even though the turns were quite gentle.
Overall I am very pleased and feel it's the right choice for our use, the rear roller will make a big difference as there are thoudands of cattle hoof prints in the ground and I hope they will in time disappear.
Have taken all that has been advised so far and decided to try to implement most of the things suggested by Monday, I don't get a lot of time to sort this out as we are here for such a short time and there's plenty to do elsewhere.
One thing that was in the parts catalogue is an optional front wheel set, I wonder if it will smooth out the turning problem by taking some of the weight off of the tractor and smoothing the turn out?
From the photo below it's possible to see that that the attachments are now on 2 & 3, so the next step is to try to invert (thanks) the brackets to see if it is possible to fit to 1 & 3.
The rear mower arms are a problem. Out of the photo (sorry) they end between the front arms. It appears the correct position is outside of these arms. If I try (without altering the angles of the bends) to fit them at 1&3 they will cross over, so until I can get them to my friend they have to live where they are but maybe adjusted with bolts and washers to the best position for the front arms on 1&3.
The vertical lifting arms on the tractor are bent, but have to say that's how I bought the tractor with them so. That doesn't mean that they wont get worse but so far it is the same as before.
The lower lifting arms can't splay out further due to brackets at their start point, the purpose of which is to locate and activate the lift for the mmm, so once that's removed (next week) they will travel a bit further before the check link stops them.
If you have read this far you are heroic, but I do feel that all of you have helped so much in making me see it as it is with some great advice
Thank you
Jamie