Tractor moving a semi trailer

[rutwad]

Guys, I am buying two "retired" 38 foot semi trailers. They have 2 axles and are fiberglass bodies with the usual wood floor and landing gear at the front. I want to hide them down behind the barn and I have a perfect spot for it.

However, I can get them delivered to just beside the barn and then I have to somehow move them into place without the truck. I want them to be nose first towards the forest so the back doors are easily accessable.

I have a Kioti CK30 TLB. The FEL that can lift (ideal measurement) about 1100 or 1200 lbs and I also have forks.

Any suggestions on how I can move the trailers with my tractor? Am I going to have to make an axle for the landing gear and push them or can I somehow lift and pull?

Any comments would be appreciated.

DON'T GIVE UP!!! PUT THEM WHERE YOU WANT THEM OR YOU WILL ALWAYS REGRET IT!!

You didn't give much info about the layout. You could use your friends 'hoe to pull the delivery truck into position, then drop them.

 

[tommu56]

One farmer I saw cribbed them up with 4x4 cut off the landing gear and boggies
Then lowered them down to the ground and rolled them in to place on 4 or 5 pieces of telephone poles and the tractor they were setting on railroad ties he leveled before he put trailer on them

The landing gear isn't that stable for a loaded trailer and will sink in to the graund real fast.

tom

 

[Richard]

Looks like you got your answer...but I'll add my 2 cents in anyway

Wife just bought one of these 1/2 sized trailers. The ones they use when they pull double trailers.

I have a full sized JCB backhoe/loader...figured I'd just hoist the front end up and push it... THEN I discovered the stupid brakes automatically lock!!

I had to buy what I think is called a "Glad hand"?? and made an attachment for it to go onto my air hose. I put the compressor tank in the bucket of backhoe, got a long length of hose, went to trailer and attached it... opened pressure and it released the brakes!!

I had the wife stand WAY to the side and hold/pull the hose so as I turned the corner I'd not run over it.

Lifted the front of the trailer, moved it to where I wanted it and put it down.

Good ideas about putting something under the front landing gear, I hadn't thought of that, thank you!!

 

[Midsouth]

The brakes locking is something a lot of people would not think about. It is a safety feature so if the trl comes undone from the tractor the brakes will apply and stop the trailer. Also makes it easier to hook up. I have come across older trailers that the brakes did not lock with no air pressure and had to chase them across the lot to get hooked to.

 

[rutwad]

The brakes will lock, but how difficult is it to manually release them? I have not really ever dealt with semi trailers, but RR cars have a valve that you can close which "bottles" the air on the car. It's a huge rule violation, but it keeps the brakes released until the air leaks off. Is there anything similiar on trailers, or could you install a valve?

Richard, was it hard to move with the JCB once the brakes were released?

 

[jimmyj]

More good points. I don't really want to give up rutwad so you guys have re-inspired me. The fleet manager at work is my buddy and he can get the brakes backed off, we already contemplated that. The landing gear on these trailers is really heavy and he thinks that if I somehow work the bogie system we could probably investigate a few options.........

1
a) jack up one trailer into the air
b) take the rear axles completely off that trailer
c) put that axle group under the front of the other trailer
d) push the whole rig into place
e) jack up the now located trailer
f) set it on a crib
g) remove wheels and do the same with the other trailer

or maybe

2
move the rear axles as far ahead as they will go to reduce the tongue weight and see if we can pull the front with the JD backhoe

or maybe

3
put another sort of axle system on the front end to make it move


I am not crazy about the first option as it is so much work but it would be good in a way to set the trailer boxes on the ground as I don't really like them sitting up so high. I could have got overseas containers but they are $2500 in this area because they are all steel they condensate inside (my dad has one).

I have done a basic drawing of the layout. Our property has treed areas so there is only one way to haul the trailers down back. There is a small barn tucked right up against the forest that I would like the trailers to be parked beside as shown in the sketch. The forest comes right up to the barn but I would only have to take out a few junky trees to make enough room to get the backhoe around the backside of the barn. I had thought about parking the two trailers wide enough apart that I could drive between them to get access to behind the barn (which is a good place to hide stuff from view). Also, I could roof between the two trailers one day if I wanted an extra place to park a trailer or boat or whatever.

The land is pretty level in the noted area so clearing brush and stuff would not be hard. I would make some sort of levelling support (maybe a crib of block on a small slab at front and rear or something) so the trailers don't sink or look to hillbilly down there. I'm going to paint them the same color as the barn so they are less obnoxious to look at.

From what Richard says, I think the BH option is still possible.

I have not looked at this in detail yet, but could I easily separate the box from the chassis? All I really want are the boxes. I do know that the way I set them they can't be viewed as "permanent" structures or I could be taxed (although other than from the air there is no way the township would ever see these things as this area is way far from the road and behind a ridge)

 

[rutwad]

If the semi is a single axle day cab, would he have enough room to pull the one in closest to the barn-then jackknife the truck away from the barn and pull out where the other trailer is going to sit? But if so, it might be harder to get the second trailer in place.

Back them in, tin up the rear, cut a door in the front...

 

[radioman]

I am confused. To be quite honest, from the last pics you gave us, all you doing is having highway truck drive in and drop it off by the barn. Why would moving it again be necessary? If it all will take is a simple new driveway laid down for tractor to drive in on, then by all means do it. You probaby can get away with just enough for the tires to drive on, not the whole width if you are very concerned about the lawn. Just have a track leading to the center where the trailers will be. lay down gravel or stones where the trailers gonna be for a good base and that is perfect for the trucks to be able to reposition your trailers for you. Just try to keep it simple and let them simply drop it off for you in the place you want it now. Any truck driver can move trailer exactly where you want it. Just have a case of beer ready in case they think its not their job .

 

[Wis Bang]

The brakes will lock, but how difficult is it to manually release them? I have not really ever dealt with semi trailers, but RR cars have a valve that you can close which "bottles" the air on the car. It's a huge rule violation, but it keeps the brakes released until the air leaks off. Is there anything similiar on trailers, or could you install a valve?

Richard, was it hard to move with the JCB once the brakes were released?

Unlike RR cars they use springs that need Air pressure to compress them to release the brakes They are strong enough to stop the whole moving rig should the air pressure fall under the limit as well as in a brake away scenario.

There are 't' bolts used to 'cage' the springs for towing and I want to add a warning about attempting to open the brake chamber housing. These springs are VERY strong and have been know to puncture cinderblock walls so DO NOT try to open the spring brake chamber! They have killled as many mechanics as split wheel rims!

While there are different styles [wedge VRS 'S'-cam] the most common is the S-cam [the 'S' has two rollers that move the brakes shoes] where the chamber is mounted paralell to the frame and has a push rod working a lever [slack adjuster] that rotates the S cam rod protruding from the backing plate. The slack adjusters CAN be backed off by turning the adjuster screw until the brakes back away from the drums. With the parking brake applied the screw should only turn in the direction that backs them off. Newer slack adjusters are required to be self adjusting but retain a manual adjust feature. The adjuster bolts have a push in lock to prevent movement...takes a 1/2 or 9/16th wrench...

jummyj,

Looking at your drawing a 'good' driver with a locking differential should be able to pull in and backaround to get out if there is enough space to unhook...road tractors have amazing traction though a small amount of snow or mud could change that. I'd start by speaking to the delivery guy. Then all you need to do is pile up timber cribbing to support the front ends.

The case of beer is a good idea, unless the driver is also the owner & I have tow started tractors w/ a 4x4 pickup so your tractor may be able to lend a hand if he does get stuck.

Keeping the running gear will insure that the taxman won't bother you.

 

[jimmyj]

Radioman, I'm sorry but I'm not doing a great job of explaining this I guess.

I don't have any concerns about getting the truck and trailers down back or getting stuck.

My problem is that I don't want them backed in because that would have the doors at the least convenient end facing into the woods. What I want is the nose of the trailer to be up against the woods. There is not enough space to make a drive all the way around the barn due to some trees that I don't want to take out (they are good hardwoods and they do hide the junk behind the barn). Also, there is not enough room to drive the truck in headfirst drop and pull away. I may have no choice but to change that.

Does that make it more clear?

Hey Wis bang and others, I'll get this sorted out, more good ideas - there is a solution here for sure. Thanks for the brake tip too but rest assured that my bud's are very experienced with trucks and trailers so they assure me they know what to do. The truck itself is going to be a daily rental so I don't want to damage it obviously and I'll do my best to get a single axle (I don't want to use a company truck from work JUST IN CASE...).

One bonus thing I just realized as my buddy pointed out is that 4 of the tires on one of the axles are in really good shape. I may be able to sell them and wind up with the trailers for near free!