Opinions on a Ford 7.3 turbo diesel

[DieselPower]

Ok, here's 5 links for you guy's and gal's. Been so darn long since I uploaded anything to my website I had to figure it out again. The first two pictures are of the front and back of the outside of the slide chart. The third and fourth are of the internal slide card and the last picture is how it looks put together.

Probably the easiest thing to do is print the first four pictures. Trim them down. Cut out the windows in the first and second pictures where info will show through and tape together on the left and right edges. Tape the third and fourth pictures together back to back and then insert in the first one you taped together. Make sense, I hope so.

Moderators - If you think this is handy enough could we possibly make a sticky in the oil/fuels/lubricants section where this is easy for everyone to find. I would be happy to let it on my website or could upload the pictures here.

http://www.trclubricants.com/DCA1.JPG
http://www.trclubricants.com/DCA2.JPG
http://www.trclubricants.com/DCA3.JPG
http://www.trclubricants.com/DCA4.JPG
http://www.trclubricants.com/DCA5.JPG

 

[jcmseven]

The 7.3L is an excellent engine. Like other diesels, Ford increased the power of the engine throughout its run cycle. By 2003 it was making an advertised 250 hp and 520 lb. ft of torque. On the dyno, many of these engines made more rear wheel power than advertised and they could be modified. I had a 2002 model and it was fairly heavily modified, including the transmission. I never had any trouble out of the engine or transmission and ran the truck around 90,000 before I sold it to a friend of mine. I spoke with him a few months back and he has had another 40,000 miles of good service out of it. My parent's neighbor has one with nearly 400K on it and has done little other than routine maintenence. To my knowledge, it is stock. As compared with the 6.4L, an example of which I just sold, the 7.3L seemed to have more low end torque and would probably outrun the 6.4L example for example at the top end. The mid range seemed to favor the 6.4L. The 7.3L, well-maintained, would be a good towing powerplant. They last a long time and for the most part the issues with them are small.

John M

 

[BJN644]

Well, I got a better look at it yesterday. It's a little rough, rust problems mostly, the problem with most vehicles in Maine from the corrosive cocktail used on roads in the winter. The lower edges of both front fenders are badly rusted, the steel brake lines will all need to be replaced to pass inspection, the front fuel tank leaks, a few holes in the dump body. It wouldn't start but the owner said it did and he will have his mechanic get it running if I want it. It does have the E4OD transmission and has been replaced once already, the odometer is showing 69K and the owner says that is correct. It is owned by a contractor and was used for plowing and sanding. It comes with a 9' Fisher snow plow and a stainless steel hopper sander. The plow looks great but the sander might need some work.

I can buy it for $2500, what do you guys think?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well, I got a better look at it yesterday. It's a little rough, rust problems mostly, the problem with most vehicles in Maine from the corrosive cocktail used on roads in the winter. The lower edges of both front fenders are badly rusted, the steel brake lines will all need to be replaced to pass inspection, the front fuel tank leaks, a few holes in the dump body. It wouldn't start but the owner said it did and he will have his mechanic get it running if I want it. It does have the E4OD transmission and has been replaced once already, the odometer is showing 69K and the owner says that is correct. It is owned by a contractor and was used for plowing and sanding. It comes with a 9' Fisher snow plow and a stainless steel hopper sander. The plow looks great but the sander might need some work.

I can buy it for $2500, what do you guys think?

I don't know? Not starting is a red flag. On the other hand it is a lot of truck for the money, especially with a plow and sander. Seems like it may take a few thousand more to get it into tip top shape. I would be torn????

A big fear would be the chassis, and the rust. In the end with out seeing it I think I would probably pass and let it be someone else's problem.

Chris

 

[jcmseven]

I agree with Chris. A good deal is only a good deal if it does not cost too much money down the road. Though 7.3L trucks are no longer that common, they are prevalent enough that I feel you could pass on a questionable one to get one with more promise. This example sounds like one I would not want, even for the tasks you have planned.

John M

 

[BJN644]

I forgot to mention it's a 1993, not a 95 as originally posted, don't know if there is alot of difference in the 2 years.

I'm thinking it might be more of a project than I want. I can definately do the work, it's just the time (and money) that's lacking. Then again it's not 40,000 dollars either.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Then again it's not 40,000 dollars either.

It may not be $40,000.00 but a truck like this can end up costing you 3 times the price of admission. Even if you do the work yourself, the fuel tank, paint and body work, brake lines, engine issues, tranny rebuild, ect. As you can see you can be into this truck for 10K before you know it.

Chris

 

[Bill_C]

Whoah, if it's a 93 then its NOT a Powerstroke, its a traditional injector-pump style diesel, either with or without a turbo. (This would be the older design that had some cavitation concerns).

The Powerstrokes did not start until mid-year 94 (hence the unofficial 94.5 designation).

2500 if it runs might be reasonable, if there's no appreciable rust. With rust I wouldn't buy it for half that (been there done that). Not running, who knows?

 

[BJN644]

So is the NON-Powerstroke 7.3 a less desirable engine? it does have a turbo.

 

[Builder]

Well, I got a better look at it yesterday. It's a little rough, rust problems mostly, the problem with most vehicles in Maine from the corrosive cocktail used on roads in the winter. The lower edges of both front fenders are badly rusted, the steel brake lines will all need to be replaced to pass inspection, the front fuel tank leaks, a few holes in the dump body. It wouldn't start but the owner said it did and he will have his mechanic get it running if I want it. It does have the E4OD transmission and has been replaced once already, the odometer is showing 69K and the owner says that is correct. It is owned by a contractor and was used for plowing and sanding. It comes with a 9' Fisher snow plow and a stainless steel hopper sander. The plow looks great but the sander might need some work.

I can buy it for $2500, what do you guys think?

Walk away at a brisk pace and buy a rust free southern truck.

If you're in love with the plow & sander, offer hime $1,500 for them and tell him to sell the rust bucket to someone else.

I won't buy anything but brand new or close to new equipment from the northeast. Too much road salt, too much plowing, too much traffic. Trucks wear out faster up here.

I just bought a 9 yr old New Holland backhoe from S. California that looks better than my 2 yr old CASE backhoe. The reason is the climate.



My '92 IH came from central Florida and looks like a 5 yr old truck.

Look south my man. You'll be much happier. Trucks are cheaper down south, too.