Grading Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP!

   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #1  

robertm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2002
Messages
1,124
Location
Northern Illinois
Tractor
Kubota BX2660
I have a Land Pride RB1572 rear blade, which is pretty heavy for my B7510 when moving snow and gravel. It many times moves the tractor around because it is too long. So, as an option, I am considering trading the blade in with the B7510 when I get the new BX2660. The 72" blade is too much for a BX. The dealer has offered me a Woods Heritage 60", which is pretty light duty compared to my Land Pride. I'm betting the trade is about a wash, but I am getting less.

The thoughts are that for about $300, I can get a new 60" blade and wear edge (only) for my Land Pride to make it a 60", but it will outweigh the Woods by close to 100#. Then, I can reinstall my skidders, which the Woods has no option for on the Heritage. Then, I'm stuck with a 72" blade and wear edge (only) that I'll probably have to give away.

So what would you do? Will the Heritage wear out, bend, twist and need the welded wear edge replaced in the next 10 years when my Land Pride will keep on going? I primarily remove snow with it, and I'm thinking the lighter duty Heritage may be better - except asphalt is heck on wear edges, and the Heritage is non-replaceable.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #2  
I opted to go the cheap route for my B2400. I bought a Dark Horse 60" BB from TSC for $300. From what I hear they are a licensed King Kutter knock off. They are China made but honestly, the sidewalls were thicker on the DH than they were on the KK. I have thought about welding the 3ph frame solid on it as it is bolted on now(I assume they broke it down for shipping purposes). It is light weight, but I added some steel plates I have to it and it works great.

Just another option.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #3  
There is always the option of cutting (having someone cut) 6" off each end of the blade you have. The other option is getting the "estate", or "XB" sized blade that is designed for the BX sized tractors. They are quite a bit lighter than a full sized blade however, and you might not be happy with that. I do think that the 05 series Landpride blades are higher, and heavier than the other brands of sub cut blades, and I would look at them first.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
There is always the option of cutting (having someone cut) 6" off each end of the blade you have. The other option is getting the "estate", or "XB" sized blade that is designed for the BX sized tractors. They are quite a bit lighter than a full sized blade however, and you might not be happy with that. I do think that the 05 series Landpride blades are higher, and heavier than the other brands of sub cut blades, and I would look at them first.

Well, the Woods Heritage is designed for the BX, and likely a $350 item at 180 pounds. The Land Pride RB0560 approaches $495 at 230 pounds (if I recall), while the RB1560 is close to $575 at 240 pounds.

I like the Woods Heritage as it is light. I have been muscling around my RB1572 for about seven years, and think even missing 12"of length, it will weigh close to 275 with the shoes - it's very heavy duty. The Woods is 100# lighter, but has no shoes (although my dealer said I could keep the shoes off my LP to install on the Heritage, and the Woods has no replaceable wear edge.

Right now, I'm supposedly getting $350 for my used Land Pride RB1572, and the Woods Heritage RBE5 costs $350, so it's a wash. It will cost me $170 to have the Land Pride cut down and holes redrilled for the shoes. A new blade kit to make my 72" a 60" costs $300. I think my current LP RB1572 is waaaay too much for the BX, and the most cost effective way is to ditch the LP on trade and get the Woods, but I'll have to expect replacing the wear edge as asphalt eats them when angled. Then, it's an aftermarket bolt-on, or a weld job. Considering I mostly use the blade for snow removal (thus wanting a 14" moldboard), I guess the Woods could be fine.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #5  
Looks like you have it pretty well figured out.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Did you look at the Woods RBC60? That is what I am looking to get for my BX25.

It is heavier duty that the Heritage line.

It has a replaceable wear edge and available skids.

Woods Equipment Company - 60'' Rear Blade - Woods Estate Series Model RBC60

I did look at this Woods model. In fact, the dealer worked this blade into the deal, but I thought a higher moldboard would be better for snow removal. The RBC is 9-1/2" high, where my Land Pride is 14". I was figuring that after pushing snow 150' down the driveway, the 9-1/2" moldboard would be dumping snow over the top, but the more I think about it during a 6+ inch snow here, the rear blade is pretty much for cleanup after the loader breaks through the initial pass.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #8  
I would get a shorter blade for your Land Pride. I love my Land Pride blade, it is very heavy duty compared to other brands I have looked at. Also for loader work you want as much weight as possible in the rear, my rear blade alone is not enough ballast for a front bucket full of wet sand. I have had to add weight to my rear blade until I can get my rear tires filled.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #9  
Your original statement is correct...you very well may be overthinking it. I have a BX2660 and the RB1572 and they work perfectly. I originally ordered the RB1560, but the dealer got the 72" instead. I decided to keep it thinking I could always cut it if I needed to, but I haven't.

I have a 900' gravel driveway that I maintain year round, including our long, cold, snowy winters. Get your rear tires loaded, get chains if you get snow, and have at it.
 
   / Overthinking Rear Blade Choice for BX... HELP! #10  
I use the Land Pride 1560 with my BX2350. The blade is heavy (I don't have a FEL) so I use weights up front. I don't use the skid shoes on my asphalt drive and haven't had any problems. If it was me, I would cut the blade to 60 inches and not have the shoes welded back on. You will miss the stoutness of the LP blade, especially when you get heavy snow or some tough frozen ice.

kj
 

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