I found my BX BH limit

[dfkrug]

I could be wrong, but I think if you are say lowering something fast and and let the valve snap to shut, there is no place for the presure to go as I think the relief valve is on the presure side??

Except that many hoe attachments have relief valves in the work circuits,
often called shock-relief valves. Your Kioti TLB probably has them, Joel.
I suspect that many of the really small hoes, like the BT601, do not. Or
it was overwhelmed by the sudden force. On my Prairie Dog hoe, the
shock RVs are fixed at 2700psi, while the main hoe RV and tractor RV are
at 2500psi.

 

[bx24]

I have set this 30' pole several times (I use it temporarily in different spots) with the FEL. Once I have dug the hole with the BH, I drop the pole with with the butt end next to the fresh hole. From there, I just lift up the top end with the FEL and drive forwards. The teeth on the bucket keep it from sliding left or right and it drops right in the hole. I hold it there until I back fill some dirt by hand and then finish the job with the FEL.

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

 

[dfkrug]

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

That's a pretty tall pole there. I am no safety freak, but that seems like
a good opportunity to put your ROPS to use. So the pole does not flip over
the bkt and hit you.

 

[J_J]

I have set this 30' pole several times (I use it temporarily in different spots) with the FEL. Once I have dug the hole with the BH, I drop the pole with with the butt end next to the fresh hole. From there, I just lift up the top end with the FEL and drive forwards. The teeth on the bucket keep it from sliding left or right and it drops right in the hole. I hold it there until I back fill some dirt by hand and then finish the job with the FEL.

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

You don't have the same situation. You are only picking up one end, and the pole is sliding into the hole. His pole was chained to the bucket, and had full weight on it, and apparently it dropped or slipped for some reason, and overloaded the hyd circuit.

 

[bx24]

That's a pretty tall pole there. I am no safety freak, but that seems like
a good opportunity to put your ROPS to use. So the pole does not flip over
the bkt and hit you.

I did have the ROPS up, but as you can see from the drawing (third pic below .... it is hard to see), because:

A- having the butt of the pole in the hole
B- with the balance point in front of the tractor
C- The fact that the FEL was able to lift up the entire pole

The whole process went surprisingly well. Using the tooth bar with a chain, the ROPs and the other 3 factors, I think I was pretty safe. The FEL bucket eventually goes beyond the balance point as you push the pole vertical (this is where the ROPs is key), but by that point, the butt of the pole is wedged into the hole so it cannot come back out. The fact that the BH bucket is only 12" wide and keeps the pole from going left or right helps a bunch too. I have done plenty of things that in hind site that have pushed the safety limits of things, but I feel pretty good about this setup. Having worked around poles most of my adult life, the one thing that always surprises me is how much taller they look when they are vertical (see the light poles on the trailer)

You don't have the same situation. You are only picking up one end, and the pole is sliding into the hole. His pole was chained to the bucket, and had full weight on it, and apparently it dropped or slipped for some reason, and overloaded the hyd circuit.

Absolutely

There is no way I could have simply picked up the entire pole with the FEL and dropped it in

 

[workmytractor]

I had a hose bust on my FEL while lifting a trailer full of bricks. It busted in a spot that always had a sharp bend in the hose. I figure that created a weak spot and caused the failure. When I replaced the hose I reoriented the fitting to make more of a straight shot. Hopefully this was the cause and fix, but only time will tell.

 

[J_J]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

 

[workmytractor]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

That's good to know. I learn something new on here daily

 

[radioman]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

I learned something here. But gotta ask to be sure JJ- This is true with rubber hoses right ? If it metal, There no point in having curves , am I faulty in thinking this or what ?

 

[J_J]

I learned something here. But gotta ask to be sure JJ- This is true with rubber hoses right ? If it metal, There no point in having curves , am I faulty in thinking this or what ?

Here is some interesting reading. If I remember right, in aircraft hydraulic routing, you never run straight lines, because of expansion and contraction.
All hose should have room to flex, but not vibrate . You can get away with some straight lines by a short flexible ,plastic or rubber hose.

Hose routing guidelines
Always allow for expansion and contraction of the hose during operation by making the hose lengths slightly longer than the actual distance between the two connections. When pressurized, hose length can increase as much as 2% or decrease by as much as 4%.

If the replacement hose is too short, pressure may cause the hose to contract and be stretched, leading to reduced service life. But if a hose is too long, it can be damaged, pinched, or even severed if it gets in the way of moving machine members.

Also avoid positioning hose next to metal edges or too close to other hose. Continuous rubbing against equipment components, other hose, or objects in the operating envelope can wear away the hose cover, exposing the hose reinforcement. Once a hose's protective cover has worn away, the exposed reinforcement wires become susceptible to corrosion, wear, and, ultimately, premature failure.

Prevent abrasion by bundling together hose assemblies that flex in the same direction. Clamps, bent tube elbows, nylon ties, spring guards, and sleeves can be used to keep hose away from abrasion sources. Hose sleeves can be used to provide extra protection from abrasion. Major hose manufacturers also produce hoses with extra-tough, abrasion-resistant covers that last hundreds of times longer than standard rubber-covered hoses in hose-to-hose and hose-to-metal abrasion testing.

Use elbows and adapters to prevent inducing strain on hose assemblies and to provide neater installations that are more accessible for inspection and maintenance. Elbows and adapters also can prevent having to orient fittings in a specific position during installation.

If an angle fitting is required on both ends of a hose assembly, use it on one end only, then use a straight fitting and an angle adapter on the other. In general, it is better to use a straight adapter and bent tube fitting instead of an angled adapter and straight hose end. This promotes laminar flow, which reduces pressure drop.

And, finally, adapters should be permanently installed on tapered pipe thread ports as a way to upgrade connections to modern designs that are more reliable and leak-free.