Which to buy..3038E or 3520..

   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #1  

KUNTRYBOY

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Jun 5, 2009
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Location
North Carolina
what are the differences, both are 37hp? I have a price of $13,800 on 3038E, hyst, 4wd, is this a good price?

Which one of these tractors is better? i will be finish mowing 4 acres, probably bushogging 2 acres, and tilling/plowing about a 2 acre garden..

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #2  
I'm one of the two here that has the 3038e and I love it. Can't keep me off of it. I have 5.5 acres I hog/mow/maintain. my JD dealship steared me this direction because it is lighter and would be easier on the lawn when doing finish mowing. I have no plans to but my land gets soft when it rains, if it rains, and the lighter tractor tears the tops soil up less.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520..
  • Thread Starter
#3  
How does your 3038E rate in physical size to like the Bobcat CT235 or Kioti CK35. is it basically the same size (height, width, tires) or is the Deere smaller?
Could i use the 3038E to pull a plow / disc harrow / cultivator ? Thanks for the advice.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #4  
The biggest difference between those two tractors is in the design of the available loaders. The 3520's loader is removable, while the 3038e has a fixed loader. Being able to remove the loader is nice for maintenance or for cutting grass, but the stability that a fix loader gives is excellent, and most of the time you will need that loader for counter ballast for a rear implement. Other differences are the features and lavishness of the two tractors. The 3520 has all the bells and whistles like a very detailed instrument cluster, a more comfortable higher back suspension seat, and lots of trim covering nobs and levers. The 3038 is a tractor, plain and simple. It just has 3 or 4 dash lights and only a tach for the instrument cluster, the hydro pedals are just stamped medal, and all the levers and such are open and exposed down to there pivot points.

I test drove a 3038e a few weeks ago and was amazed by it, it really is a whole lot of tractor for a very nice price. The loader is very quick and responsive, the hydro transmission is nice and smooth and it doesn't have that typical hydro "wine" to it, and the levers and such all work nice and smoothly. If I was to do my purchase over again I think I would have a hard time not getting one of the new E series tractors. You get so much for so little, it's a great value over the 3x20 series.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #6  
No problem, anytime.

Also to add one more thing, the hydro transmission on the 3520 is a 3 range variant where as the one on the 3038e is only 2 range. To me I would figure this would hamper the 3038e in mowing, but it's top speed in low range is about 5.8 mph, which is about as fast as you'll comfortable want to cut anyway, so it works out.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #7  
what are the differences, both are 37hp? I have a price of $13,800 on 3038E, hyst, 4wd, is this a good price?

Which one of these tractors is better? i will be finish mowing 4 acres, probably bushogging 2 acres, and tilling/plowing about a 2 acre garden..

Thanks in advance for the help.

I'm looking very seriously at buying the 3038 too. I drove one last week and, although I don't know a lot about tractors, was impressed. I was quoted a price of $13,300 for the tractor plus another $2800 for the loader so I'd say that the price quote you received was reasonable. I also sat on a 3520. It is very nice. The pedals are a lot stiffer on the 3038. It's like the difference between a Silverado and a Cheyenne. One has all the bells and whistles and the other is plain Jane tractor. Depends on what you want/need I guess.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #8  
Check the difference in hydraulic output too.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #9  
I've used my 3038e for tilling with my 5' KK tiller. I've pulled an 8 ft JD 3pt springtooth with ease (in 4wd). Done landscaping with my 5' box blade. I've been very pleased with the hydro performance. And fuel economy has been superior.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #10  
I looked at both those tractors also during my shopping spree. Both are good choices but I like the option on the 3520 of being able to remove the FEL. As someone else said it also has a few more "bells and whistles" which you may or may not need / want on a tractor. I wasn't sure I wanted any "bells or whistles" until I bought the 4320 with a few of those "bells and whistles." I'm glad I did now.

Since apparently you already have the boss's permission to buy a new tractor, think about the "bells and whistles" when you make your decision. Either way you'll be getting a very good tractor.
 
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   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #11  
No problem, anytime.

Also to add one more thing, the hydro transmission on the 3520 is a 3 range variant where as the one on the 3038e is only 2 range. To me I would figure this would hamper the 3038e in mowing, but it's top speed in low range is about 5.8 mph, which is about as fast as you'll comfortable want to cut anyway, so it works out.

My 790 has a two-range gear tranny. For loader work the low range seems too slow and high range seems too fast. I have always thought that the three range tractor would solve alot of slow backing-up. Is this the same case with a hyrdo tractor??.....Too slow / too fast? .....or, does the hydro tranny allow the manufacturer to speed things up a bit for low range operation?? :confused:
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #12  
My 790 has a two-range gear tranny. For loader work the low range seems too slow and high range seems too fast. I have always thought that the three range tractor would solve alot of slow backing-up. Is this the same case with a hyrdo tractor??.....Too slow / too fast? .....or, does the hydro tranny allow the manufacturer to speed things up a bit for low range operation?? :confused:

Well, with an HST, you can go any infinite speed up to the top speed of that range. Say your in low range and the top speed is 5 mph, you can start off nudging the pedal real easy to get moving then push the pedal down all the way to start moving at the full 5 mph. Precision is the name of the game with an HST. Another thing, the hydro transmission needs to be operated with the engine at a high RPM, say 2k or more, in order to get adequte performance out it. Like any tractor, the higher you have the RPM's, the faster your top speed will be in either a certain gear on a manual tractor, or hydro range on HST tractor.

I don't know about you, but with my PR trans, I tend to run the RPM's around 1500 when I'm just doing casual work. That's the nice thing about a gear trans in that you don't have to have the RPMs up real high to get good performance from the trans. At that RPM, it gives a good all around speed in the 4 gears in B range, which is about the medium range. If I'm using the RFM at PTO speed than I usually run in B range and I end up running into the "too fast or too slow" problem such as you've mentioned. In the abrupt way that a manual starts off in high gear, it tends to rip the turf up if I'm in say 3rd or 4th gear. When backing up it's even worse, it will whip the wheels on the RFM around so fast that it rips the turf too. To back up smoothly, I have to downshift to 1st or 2nd gear, then flip it to reverse. This particular problem bothers me in that don't get that precision that one may be looking for when back up with the RFM, plus 1 or 2 tends to be slow for mowing after you start backing up so I find myself having to upshift so I can move faster. I feel that an HST tractor, with a low or mid range that has a top speed of around 6 mphs, would be a perfect grass cutter. It allows you to start backing up smoothly and then mash on the hydro pedal to immediately start moving faster. Anything above 6 mph to me is too fast to be cutting anyway so you feel the bumps of the ground too much and your cut quality decreases as you go faster. This in itself would be the main reason why I think my next tractor will be an HST model. While I love the fact that I can just putt around all day at 1500 RPM for casual work, most of my use is cutting grass and a HST makes more sense for that. The only bother is having to hold the pedal down for a while. Though, now that they have cruise control options I don't think it will be as uncomfortable.

So to answer your question, Yes, the hydro trans fixes the issue with the "too fast or too slow" problem that you sometimes encounter with a gear tractor.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #13  
Quite a response WH. Some day I think I will need to drive a two-range hydro tranny tractor to see if it solves my issues with too-fast / too-slow...enough power, torque / not enough. (I'm not ready for a new model yet....just a little curious on the three-range vs two-range hydro tractors.)

Sometimes when operating the loader in low range it seems to take FOREVER to get where your going in reverse.....but not worth changing the hi/lol range....and high range gets me into trouble in the woods. :eek: :mad: Seems to me that middle range as found on the 20 series tractors would be a pretty nice feature for loader work.

Impatient Foggy.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #14  
As for removing the loader on the 3038e, I have never removed mine but the bucket CAN be removed, just not the arms.. I personally like the extra weight up front, just have to be careful and remember it is there, and occasionally lift it up high or low.. I've actually liked it being there while hogging to help 'grab' branches that would otherwise hit me..

Being new to tractors I don't know much about what is what so I figured high was to go fast and low was to go slow.. but it seems like it is sorta like 4wd, High is high gear and low is low gear.. so low gives you more power, but slower..

is this correct?
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #15  
Well, with an HST, you can go any infinite speed up to the top speed of that range. Say your in low range and the top speed is 5 mph, you can start off nudging the pedal real easy to get moving then push the pedal down all the way to start moving at the full 5 mph. Precision is the name of the game with an HST. Another thing, the hydro transmission needs to be operated with the engine at a high RPM, say 2k or more, in order to get adequte performance out it. Like any tractor, the higher you have the RPM's, the faster your top speed will be in either a certain gear on a manual tractor, or hydro range on HST tractor.

I don't know about you, but with my PR trans, I tend to run the RPM's around 1500 when I'm just doing casual work. That's the nice thing about a gear trans in that you don't have to have the RPMs up real high to get good performance from the trans. At that RPM, it gives a good all around speed in the 4 gears in B range, which is about the medium range. If I'm using the RFM at PTO speed than I usually run in B range and I end up running into the "too fast or too slow" problem such as you've mentioned. In the abrupt way that a manual starts off in high gear, it tends to rip the turf up if I'm in say 3rd or 4th gear. When backing up it's even worse, it will whip the wheels on the RFM around so fast that it rips the turf too. To back up smoothly, I have to downshift to 1st or 2nd gear, then flip it to reverse. This particular problem bothers me in that don't get that precision that one may be looking for when back up with the RFM, plus 1 or 2 tends to be slow for mowing after you start backing up so I find myself having to upshift so I can move faster. I feel that an HST tractor, with a low or mid range that has a top speed of around 6 mphs, would be a perfect grass cutter. It allows you to start backing up smoothly and then mash on the hydro pedal to immediately start moving faster. Anything above 6 mph to me is too fast to be cutting anyway so you feel the bumps of the ground too much and your cut quality decreases as you go faster. This in itself would be the main reason why I think my next tractor will be an HST model. While I love the fact that I can just putt around all day at 1500 RPM for casual work, most of my use is cutting grass and a HST makes more sense for that. The only bother is having to hold the pedal down for a while. Though, now that they have cruise control options I don't think it will be as uncomfortable.

So to answer your question, Yes, the hydro trans fixes the issue with the "too fast or too slow" problem that you sometimes encounter with a gear tractor.

I agree for the most part but do not find it necessary to operate the hydro at 2000 rpm to get satisfactory results. Obviously higher rpms achieve too speeds output but find that a lot of work can be done between 1500 to 1800.


Steve
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #16  
I'm new to this site and new to JD. Bought a 3038E last week. The tractor is very comfortable to operate and has plenty of power. The 2 speed is not a problem for me. I am however dissapointed in the loader. Doesn't seem to have the breakout power I had with my Kubota. I use the loader more than the other attachments so I have an appointment next week to have the loader checked out. If it's working properly, I'll probably try to sell it and go back to kubota. If I was looking for a tractor to mow with it would be great. Just my $ .02.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #17  
I agree for the most part but do not find it necessary to operate the hydro at 2000 rpm to get satisfactory results. Obviously higher rpms achieve too speeds output but find that a lot of work can be done between 1500 to 1800.


Steve

That's my experience too with my 4320 with the eHydro trans. I've done all of my bush hogging in the 1500 to 1800 rpm range without any problem. Fuel consumption has been great at the range also.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #18  
I'm new to this site and new to JD. Bought a 3038E last week. The tractor is very comfortable to operate and has plenty of power. The 2 speed is not a problem for me. I am however dissapointed in the loader. Doesn't seem to have the breakout power I had with my Kubota. I use the loader more than the other attachments so I have an appointment next week to have the loader checked out. If it's working properly, I'll probably try to sell it and go back to kubota. If I was looking for a tractor to mow with it would be great. Just my $ .02.

What was your Kubota? What RPM are you running the engine at?
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #19  
My Kubota was a B7800. It was a great tractor. Only 30 hp but good hydraulics. Never had a lack of power but sometimes needed a little more weight for traction. I think I would try the L3400 if I had it to do over again.
 
   / Which to buy..3038E or 3520.. #20  
I'm new to this site and new to JD. Bought a 3038E last week. The tractor is very comfortable to operate and has plenty of power. The 2 speed is not a problem for me. I am however dissapointed in the loader. Doesn't seem to have the breakout power I had with my Kubota. I use the loader more than the other attachments so I have an appointment next week to have the loader checked out. If it's working properly, I'll probably try to sell it and go back to kubota. If I was looking for a tractor to mow with it would be great. Just my $ .02.

What are you trying to pick up with the loader....that it wont handle?
 

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