Tilt cylinder questions

[Knight]

Willl you didn't take the time to read the post.
ex. "What is the Bore and stroke? is different than "what is bore and stroke"
Am I am talking about my tilt as in TNT.

I was looking for a cylinder that had the slight bend in the end just as the factory 3 pt link has.

 

[Knight]

Willl you didn't take the time to read the post.
ex. "What is the Bore and stroke? is different than "what is bore and stroke"
Am I am talking about my tilt as in TNT.

I was looking for a cylinder that had the slight bend in the end just as the factory 3 pt link has.

My question is.... Do they make the 2" bore, 4-6" cylinder with the proper ends or do you have to cut and weld your own?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Willl you didn't take the time to read the post.
ex. "What is the Bore and stroke? is different than "what is bore and stroke"
Am I am talking about my tilt as in TNT.

I was looking for a cylinder that had the slight bend in the end just as the factory 3 pt link has.

Knight, you can do a few things. Cut off the ends of your stationary link and put them on a 6" stroke cylinder that has had the factory ends cut off, or have someone build one for you. Should cost between $200-$240. If you get someone local, or do it yourself, I would use the Kubota factory ends myself. Some of the places selling the side links don't do a very clean job in my opinion, they aren't using a clevis at the bottom, just welding flat bar stock to the end of the ram. Oh, I believe that the angle that you are talking about at the clevis to ram is about 5 degrees. You have 2 pin locations in the clevis, right? Use the adjustable link opposite the hydraulic link and you should be able to have the hydraulic link centered when your implement is level. That way you have an equal amount of tilt both left and right.

Didn't intend to ramble on, but some people like to have everything explained to them and I thought that this might help others that may want to do this also.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My question is.... Do they make the 2" bore, 4-6" cylinder with the proper ends or do you have to cut and weld your own?

It will have to be custom made.

 

[Knight]

Knight, you can do a few things. Cut off the ends of your stationary link and put them on a 6" stroke cylinder that has had the factory ends cut off, or have someone build one for you. Should cost between $200-$240. If you get someone local, or do it yourself, I would use the Kubota factory ends myself. Some of the places selling the side links don't do a very clean job in my opinion, they aren't using a clevis at the bottom, just welding flat bar stock to the end of the ram. Oh, I believe that the angle that you are talking about at the clevis to ram is about 5 degrees. You have 2 pin locations in the clevis, right? Use the adjustable link opposite the hydraulic link and you should be able to have the hydraulic link centered when your implement is level. That way you have an equal amount of tilt both left and right.

Didn't intend to ramble on, but some people like to have everything explained to them and I thought that this might help others that may want to do this also.

Excellent info.Thank You! I never thought of putting the adjustable opposite the hydraulic, but this way you get some adjustment after the hydraulic cylinder is off.
I will make my own cylinder.
Do you think the 2" bore is enough? My tractor L3400 specs out at 1998# at lift point and 1438# 24" behind lift point.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Excellent info.Thank You! I never thought of putting the adjustable opposite the hydraulic, but this way you get some adjustment after the hydraulic cylinder is off.
I will make my own cylinder.
Do you think the 2" bore is enough? My tractor L3400 specs out at 1998# at lift point and 1438# 24" behind lift point.

My Mahindra 3215 is in that weight neighborhood also. I have a 2" on it and it works fine, but if you have the room for a 2 1/2" cylinder, that might be the way to go. The bigger cylinder will be way easier to adjust. On my little cylinder it is a lot harder to micro adjust, in fact I am going to be installing a metering valve later on so that I will be able to cut the flow down to a dribble if I want to. Remember to use 1/4" hose, that will help restrict the fluid flow and will make adjusting the tilt cylinder easier.

Was wondering, are you doing a complete "TnT" set up, and if you are what are you using for your Top Link?

 

[Willl]

I'll bury my head and step aside.

 

[Knight]

I'll bury my head and step aside.

Okay........
I usually have to read everything eight times and I still miss the point.


I didn't really think I needed a top adjustable.
I was thinking I only needed angle the box scraper or rake. It might also interfere with may backhoe install. I have a subframe mount for backhoe, but I still use the top link for a little extra support, since the backhoe mount is all down low.

I didn't even think of the 1/4" line. I will do it. I am using electric over hydraulic, because all the equipment goes under the seat. very clean, but less micro control over the cylinder.
Did you use the check valve to hold cylinder in place? You know the little valve mounted between the in and out on the cylinder?

 

[tatra805]

Just did that this weekend.

no pics but you know how it schould look

If you are going to weld on the connector pieces yourself some tips i found out

- extend the cylinder to 3/4 of its length to avoid the rod heating up too much inside the cylinder when welding, and to stay away from the seals at the cylinder.

- cover the chrome with a piece of metal, a hot spark (what do you call the things flying away when welding??) will otherwise damage the chrome and provoke damage to the sealing rings

- point weld the top connector and mount it on tractor then, fully extend and rectract the cylinder an look if the top connector is not interfering with the implements connector plates.

depending on which cylinder you are using you will be working in a completely different angles (more retracted and extended) than with the manual link and you might find that the top connector needs to be a bit under an angle to clear things.

If do not do this upfront you might end up bending the cylinder when your welds are good.


just my 2cents

 

[Knight]

Just did that this weekend.

no pics but you know how it schould look

If you are going to weld on the connector pieces yourself some tips i found out

- extend the cylinder to 3/4 of its length to avoid the rod heating up too much inside the cylinder when welding, and to stay away from the seals at the cylinder.

- cover the chrome with a piece of metal, a hot spark (what do you call the things flying away when welding??) will otherwise damage the chrome and provoke damage to the sealing rings

- point weld the top connector and mount it on tractor then, fully extend and rectract the cylinder an look if the top connector is not interfering with the implements connector plates.

depending on which cylinder you are using you will be working in a completely different angles (more retracted and extended) than with the manual link and you might find that the top connector needs to be a bit under an angle to clear things.

If do not do this upfront you might end up bending the cylinder when your welds are good.


just my 2cents

Thanks, I'll mock it up first.