Rake How not to add a jack to a rake

   / How not to add a jack to a rake #1  

lhfarm

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2002
Messages
1,320
Location
Central Indiana
Tractor
NH TC40DA
I picked up a set of snowmobile dollies at a clearnance sell (not big snowmobile country here in central Indiana) a couple of years ago and have used them on my landscape rake. It was a 3 piece set with 2 grooved platforms and 1 flat platform. I wanted to replace the flat platform used in the front, since it required the front of the rake to be too low when trying to attach the rake to the tractor. My plan had been to pick up a jack at HF and weld it on to the rake, but as luck would have it, I found myself in a TSC store, where I found a bolt on/swiveling wheeled jack for $34.

The provided bolts where about 1/2" too short for the 4" box steel, so I ran to town to a big box store to buy some 5" bolts. Rant on - The only 5" bolts they had where grade 8 in packs of 3! When do you ever need 3 bolts? So I ended up having to buy 2 packages. Our town no longer has any hardware stores, so I guess I'm lucky to access to bolts and nuts at all. - End rant.

The jack bolted on without a problem and I took it down to the barn to try it out. With the jack fully extended and rake lowered, the jack was angled back close to 45 degrees. It caused the wheel to bind, rather than swivel when I tried to move the rake to the side. This isn't what I had in mind. But wait, this is a swiveling jack, so all I need to do is drill another hole in the right location so the when lowered, the jack is at a 90 degree angle.

Back to the garage. I'll omit much of the next two hours, but it involved fighting with the large snap ring that holds the mounting plate to the jack, missing the mark when I drilled the new hole, and breaking a bit when I tried to ream the hole. I did get it to lock in the new hole and remounted on the rake.

As I was inserting the last bolt, I stuck it in the fourth hole of the bracket, instead of the third (the bracket was drilled for 2, 3, 4 or 5 inch tubing). It was then that it dawned on me that I could have made the angle correction with a simple shim under one bracket. A 5 minute job vs. a less than perfect 2 hour job.

Back to the barn. As you can see from the pictures, it does work, even if I didn't end up at a perfect 90 degrees. Another case of over thinking a simple problem.
 

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   / How not to add a jack to a rake #2  
Just make sure you don't use a solid top link when you hook it all up. Use a chain to separate the tractor motions from the rake's. Otherwise, your driveway or road is going to have some waves develop in it and something else is gonna break. A lot of times, I run my rake at 45 degrees to the tractor, that makes having adjustments like this kinda handy...
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Just make sure you don't use a solid top link when you hook it all up. Use a chain to separate the tractor motions from the rake's. Otherwise, your driveway or road is going to have some waves develop in it and something else is gonna break. A lot of times, I run my rake at 45 degrees to the tractor, that makes having adjustments like this kinda handy...

The jack is just for parking the rake in the barn and it is cranked up and out of the way when I'm using the rake. I do use a top link, since I haven't figured out how rig a chain so that I can still lift the rake at the end of the run. What do I need? A short section of chain that I can pin to the top hole on the rack and the top link hole on the tractor?

Thanks,
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #4  
just wanted to say that's a great idea, and I learned something - might have to buy a cheap HF stand or 2 for the same problem, since I can't weld.
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #5  
just wanted to say that's a great idea, and I learned something - might have to buy a cheap HF stand or 2 for the same problem, since I can't weld.

No, you just haven't welded yet.;)
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #6  
just wanted to say that's a great idea, and I learned something - might have to buy a cheap HF stand or 2 for the same problem, since I can't weld.

Charles, with all that equipment there on the vineyard you haven't gotten yourself a little 110v MIG or fluxcore "glue gun" yet? I'm shocked. :rolleyes:

They are very easy to use and practice makes perfect. They are so simple that a welding course is optional. You can get started with a couple of books and an hour or so watching Utube.

I sprung for one a couple of years ago and while I am technically horrible and would never ever post a photo of one of my welds, they do hold and allow both repairs and modifications that are quite nice to be able to do rather than haul your tractor or implement to the dealer. Saves time, especially for us island types.
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #7  
Can you turn the rake all the way around back wards when the wheel is cranked up?

Joe
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #8  
Can't you omit the dollies and lower the gauge wheels to roll it around?
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake #9  
Can't you omit the dollies and lower the gauge wheels to roll it around?

The gauge wheels are cantelevered and stick out the back of the rake so you'd basically be lifting at least half the weight of the rake in order to do that.
 
   / How not to add a jack to a rake
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Can you turn the rake all the way around back wards when the wheel is cranked up?

Joe

I don't think so. It is a 7' rake and I know I can't turn it when it is mounted, but for my primary need (gravel drive maintenance), it isn't an issue for me. But the bolt on design means you could remove the jack in just a couple of minutes.
 
 

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