Elecrtic PTO Clutch - Scotts L2548

rossgtn · Jul 27, 2009

I have a Scotts L2548 (2002 model) that was build by John Deere. Yesterday, while mowing, the PTO stopped. When I looked under the mower, there was light smoke coming from the PTO clutch. It will no longer engage the mower deck. I'm assuming the clutch is gone. Has anyone had the clutch go out? Anyone know how to check the clutch to confirm it is bad? I'm assuming that the problem is in the electrical part and not the friction material. Has anyone changed the clutch and if so how hard was it to replace? The mower only has 230 hours on it, however it is used to mow taller grass from time to time so I'm not sure if this is a normal failure based on the number of hours. I have located replacement parts that range from $125.00 to over $200.00. Thanks for any input.

jinman · Jul 27, 2009

The height of grass and amount of stress you put on the engaged clutch should have no effect whatsoever on the electromagnet. It probably failed due to the shock of engagement. Those clutches really grab and hold. Your electromagnet probably has an internal short or one of the wires got caught and pinched on something. If a wire gets caught, it normally breaks and you might see a spark for an instant and then nothing. Since your electromagnet was smoking, I can only assume it is shorted internally and drawing too much current.

When you get the new clutch, measure the resistance of the coil and write it down. You can use that number to check your old failing coil or recheck the new one at a later date. I suspect that you cannot replace the coil, but rather the whole clutch is a unit replacement. BTW, your clutch should be very much like the electric clutches on an auto air conditioner. It just works a little harder. Good luck with your mower.

cjk · Jul 29, 2009

Some of those older clutches were adjustable. They had 3 bolts around the perimeter you adjust to get the correct gap. Im not sure if yours is like this or not.

If your clutch was shorted I think a fuse would blow.

Is your deck jammed up with a big stick or something? Make sure you can turn all the blades and pulleys by hand.

J_J · Jul 29, 2009

To test the clutch, just unplug it and apply 12 v to it. It should click loud. I have replace many of them. Not very hard at all. If you shop around, you can find them with a good price spread. Test your new clutch before installation. Most of those clutches are not serviceable. You can also use a VOM meter to test for a short, open, and the resistance.

mjncad · Jul 30, 2009

At least you got 230-hours out of your clutch. My 2005 JD L130's clutch puked at 56-hours. If you look closely, the bearing cage tore itself up, which seized the clutch and no doubt caused it to fry. The melted OEM connector is part of the wiring harness, so I took the parts guy's advice and used insulated connectors and a Sharpie pen to high-tech label which color wires went where on the new clutch.

If you had smoke coming from the clutch, it's shot. After you replace the clutch, and it still doesn't engage, then your PTO switch got fried too. That's what happened to me, a new PTO switch was $20, a new clutch $155. I had to make a wrench to hold the engine from turning while removing and installing the clutch mounting bolt to the engine shaft. Removal of the bolt required a borrowed impact wrench, and the 7/16" GR8 bolt took 78-LB/FT of torque when I put it back on.

Have fun.

rossgtn · Jul 30, 2009

Thanks for the info, I didn't think about the switch but will check it as well. The new clutch is to arrive today (got it for $129.00). It will be Saturday before I will have time to check and install. I'll post an update later.
FYI, saw a forum yesterday about transmission issues with the JD L110's and L130's. I hope that is not in our future.

jinman · Jul 30, 2009

mjncad said:
At least you got 230-hours out of your clutch. My 2005 JD L130's clutch puked at 56-hours.

That looks like the identical clutch that is on my LA145. The connector and wiring are identical. I'll keep my ears open for it to make any noise when disengaged. When engaged, it should spin locked to the engine and have no relative difference in speed. I have about 54 hr on my LA145, so I'm coming up on the "bewitching hour" of 56.

J_J · Jul 30, 2009

I have used similar clutches for years, and there some things that will add some longevity to the clutch. Engage the clutch at about 1/3 speed. Don't try and cut to much grass at one time. If you stall out in grass, back out and clear under deck. If your clutch is adjustable, adjust it whenever. Sometimes the clutch material will wear out and the electric is still good. Most of them can not be repaired. and some of them cost upward of $250. Keep deck spindle bearings lubed.

mjncad · Jul 31, 2009

rossgtn said:
FYI, saw a forum yesterday about transmission issues with the JD L110's and L130's. I hope that is not in our future.

Have you got a link as I'd like to see that thread.

mjncad · Jul 31, 2009

jinman said:
That looks like the identical clutch that is on my LA145. The connector and wiring are identical. I'll keep my ears open for it to make any noise when disengaged. When engaged, it should spin locked to the engine and have no relative difference in speed. I have about 54 hr on my LA145, so I'm coming up on the "bewitching hour" of 56.

I'm sure the clutches are the same. The parts guy told me to listen for rattles when operating the mower. Quite frankly with ear plugs in and the natural motor and mower noise, I wouldn't be able to hear it rattling. When mine puked, I was in the middle of cutting and all of a sudden the noise level dropped significantly telling me the mower stopped for some reason.