JD3520 will not start

[tugboat-2]

Just thought of something related: Make sure your gear shift selector lever is in Neutral,...shouldn't matter with your set up but never hurts to try things like this. Also double check all PTO switches and levers as if you had (for instance) been mowing and simply shut 'er down when you came in,.. WITHOUT hitting the PTO Mower button,.....it will NOT start next time.

Trying to think of things it could be. Sure it could be a faulty battery but try all the simple "stupid" things first. Don't be afraid to yank, twist and pull on any and all electrical connections as a "little-rust-corrosion-dirt" can make a faulty elect. connection.

Again I'll remind you to "wiggle" your motion pedals first. Sit in the seat and look around,...turn OFF everything!!!! Lights, PTO switches, (Cab? heater/AC, wipers, cabin ceiling light, cruise, load match and anything that can be turned OFF,...turn it all off to begin with. Then begin your pedal wiggles, safety switch checks etc and just keep double checking because it is sure to be an electrical problem.

Also, . . how about your engine intake air "filter"? Is there a chance that hasn't been serviced in a while and has clogged up. Seems to me there might be a "Restriction-switch" that may disconnect the starter when the filter is clogged? (Just guessing here).

Even more Good luck wishes this time,
. . tug

 

[John_in_TN]

I agree that there are several possible causes for this problem, but I assure you that (based on personal experience) a 3520 e-hydro with one dead cell in the battery will act exactly like the OP describes. The computer won't allow the starter to engage when it sense low voltage. Instead the dash cluster clicks rather loudly and the idiot light all blink indicating the low voltage problem.

 

[tugboat-2]

OK John_in_TN, . . I will certainly take the word of "experience" above all else, so Kenjal, . . pull the battery out of your road vehicle, car, truck etc and try it in the tractor. If you get the same symptoms with a "known" factor, then try some of my suggestions above. (Don't have to actually switch batteries, just make certain of your "booster" connections). If that is the problem, then I guess its time for a NEW battery!

And John, . . do you recall during your experience, if the "display" showed any of the codes, or did it remain blank as our OP indicates? Not having experienced this issue as yet, I really don't know what to tell this guy other than obvious starting points.

I would have "expected" the display to indicate such as "bad-batt" or some such thing rather than remain blank and totally confuse the operator?

CHEERS
. . tug

 

[Willl]

battery is charged.

Says who ?, exactly what voltage does it read ?

 

[John_in_TN]

Tug, display showed no codes, the starter did nothing, there were just rapid clicking sounds and all the idiot lights blink (or maybe flash simultaniously is a better description). According to my dealer - that is the indication for low voltage.

 

[John_in_TN]

Sorry guys, I acidently hit enter prematurely on previous post.
I also tried to charge my old battery with two different chargers and both showed the battery was fully charged but the battery had one dead cell. That was confusing the chargers and causing the described problem.

Tug, all of you guys made excellent reccomendations and I am NOT trying to discount any of them, I just think the most likely cause here is the battery.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I just think the most likely cause here is the battery.

I agree....if it were a "safety switch" or similar, you'd get a code on the LCD Display saying such....
I had the SAME thing happen to my truck this winter actually...Radio worked fine, lights were on, etc.. but would just click to start...tested volts, 12v.... Brought battery in and had tested, FAILED load test.....installed new battery when I got home and she fired right up.

 

[kenjal]

Good morning guys -
John in TN, you were right on as were the other guys who said it was more than likely the battery. It is the battery. I took a volt reading and it was practically nothing. So it is off to napa to buy a new one.
In hindsight I should have checked this first thing but I never thought that the battery would just up and die like that. In my past experience a battery at least gave you a little heads up. But that was with non computer chip controlled autos/trucks.
Thanks everyone for your replies & advice.
Ken

 

[John_in_TN]

Glad you got it sorted out!
The 3520 did act very differently from anything else I have ever encountered.

 

[tugboat-2]

Yes indeed, I too am glad the problem is solved! Most of my mechanical so-called "expertise" was long before all this confusing, computerized stuff. Don't get me wrong, I think todays technology is wonderful,...just a shade hard to diagnose without proper testers etc.

Sorry John if I gave the wrong idea, on the contrary I welcomed your input. Just figured a faulty battery would at least show some of the signs they used to, like at least clicking the starter, or dimming the lights when you try to start and all the stuff from the "old days" (where I'm from).

Had no idea the weak battery would act in this manner and you were right to insist on it. My mistake, ..my lesson learned. My 3520 is a 2006 so perhaps I'll soon experience the same indications,...AND will be ready to deal with it. So, my thanks goes to you "battery" guys! I learned something worth knowing today!!!

CHEERS !
. . tug