Best 12V tap-off where ?

[bcarwell]

I have a Kubota 7500. I can see the need for attaching various 12v thingies-spotlight, sprayer, cocktail mixer, radio, etc. I don't want to hardwire them all in (maybe just the lights, radio), but want to have a 12v access point to plug some of these things in as needed.

Where is the best place to access 12v on my Kubota and what kind of panel/terminal bar/connectors would you recommend. I've seen some appends (recently about adding floodlights with magnetic mounts) where they accessed under the seat and used a weatherproof sealed cigarette lighter socket (not a Kubota I don't think). But that seems to be a pain having to have a cigarette lighter plug for every accessory. I've also seen from auto parts stores some things that attach to the battery terminals to provide auxiliary wires, though that seems to have a downside of not being routed through the tractor's fuses and on/off switch.

Any ideas ?

Bob

 

[texasjohn]

The electronic stuff you add typically has an inline fuse..and an on/off switch.. so attaching to the battery + terminal can be a fused connection. I don't have the same tractor you do, but used this technique to locate existing 12V connections:

Get a voltmeter... HF has them for about $4 on sale if you don't have one.

Hunt for wires that are not connected to anything.... under hood, under seat, behind the instrument panel.... there will be some somewhere.

check with key on to see if 12 V is available at that connection.

If so, remove various fuses until you discover which fuse it is....and the fuse size...

Determine if enough amps are available thru this wire for your equipment.

If you can't find a fused wire with sufficient amperage, you will have to run one from the battery.

As for connectors, etc... an auto supply is likely the best...just watch and make sure you are matching components with amps drawn. Lights draw lots of amps.

 

[bigdad]

Go right to the battery terms and FUSE your new equipment with the right amperage fuse. You can get yourself in trouble tapping into existing harnesses. If you're not sure what you're doing (and if you don't own an ohm/volt meter...... you don't), tap the battery.

Be careful.

 

[Shimon]

If you want to have switched 12v from the keyswitch...then what I would do is get a 30A Bosch relay and run a 12ga wire from the pos battery terminal through a 30A ATO fuse to terminal 87 on the relay. Terminal 30 will go to power post which you will mount somewhere in the engine compartment which is where you can hook up anything you want (up to 30A) to receive switched power. To trigger the relay, you will hook up terminal 86 to ground and then terminal 85 will go to the "run" position of your keyswitch. Now anytime you need to add an accessory which needs power you can get it off the power post you installed without disturbing any of the original wiring. If you need constant 12v then just go directly to the battery post and use an appropriate fuse. If you want to have quick disconnects for your accessories then go to a marine hardware store and they have all sorts of weatherproof connectors.

 

[bcarwell]

Thanks to all for taking the time to provide some really helpful input. I'm an EE and have a VOM but diddle with auto wiring just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again fellas.

Bob

 

[texasjohn]

Apologies for lecturing you on voltmeters, how to determine fuse capacity, etc.

For the wench I occasionally connect to the tractor, I ran a BIG hot wire from the terminal back to a manually switched 30A fuse in the cab with terminal block. I couldn't believe the fuse cost $40 or so...

 

[newbury]

Apologies for lecturing you on voltmeters, how to determine fuse capacity, etc.

For the wench I occasionally connect to the tractor,

I ran a BIG hot wire from the terminal back to a manually switched 30A fuse in the cab with terminal block. I couldn't believe the fuse cost $40 or so...

I realize this is an old thread, but I'd like to do similar to my B7610, probably a cig lighter to power two LED floodlights at first.

But I'm confused -
How often does one hook up a wench to a tractor?

 

[newbury]

Just after posting the above I found:

Hey Phil,

Try this:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-removeable-lights.html?highlight=rops+lights

I bought a two pack of the lights at Harbor Freight for $7.99 along with the two magnets for $5.99 each. I had three 20% off coupons so the girl at the counter did three separate purchases. I would say for under $20 it solved my problem. Only thing I see as an issue is that if you're not careful the magnets will mark up the paint on the tractor. My solution? I don't mount them to anything I don't want marked up.

Here's a link to the lights:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-removeable-lights.html?highlight=rops+lights

On a B7610 there is a wire under the seat to connect the lights. From what I've heard the BX models have a similar connector. The nice part about the magnetic lights is that you can mount them just about anywhere. I have yet to have one fall off while working. I plan on using them for snowblowing. They definitely light up the night! And the price is right.

Good luck!
Keith
Kubota B7610

However I've seen discussion about NOT using that because it prevents fuel solenoid shutoff.
Any ideas?

 

[BXRICK]

When doing auto/tractor wiring, you're almost always better off running your own stuff, except for signal wires. In other words, if it has any load (lights, etc), go to the battery, add a fused circuit. If there's any real load that needs switching, also use a relay. Make sure both the signal wires used from the switch and the power wire to the relay is fused. If your signal wire is from an existing switch, it's already fused.
Auto parts stores carry 30-amp relays that work just fine.
Since you'll be using a relay, you can use any switch you want to.
By doing it this way, you don't have to worry about how much amperage is already on a circuit. The only thing to worry about is total amperage and whether your alternator can keep up (and if you care).

It's a little more work, but it will just work.
Also, if something goes wrong with your accessory, you know which wiring it's in, and it won't disable your tractor.

When I wired up my work lights and strobe, I used the existing switches, but added my own fused, relayed circuit. That way, I didn't have to add any switches. When I turn on the headlamps, the work lights come on, too. And, when I turn on the flashers, the strobe comes on, too. Saved the trouble of finding a place to add switches, drill holes, etc.

 

[KeithInSpace]

...hook up a wench to a tractor?

A wench...she'd appreciate you using the seatbelt.

A WINCH...I'd probably make my own connection to the battery (using an in-line fuse, of course) and whatever switches were necessary.

I used my BX for a hay ride last Halloween and installed a cigarette lighter to the battery. It just dangles behind the removable panel at my feet since I use it so seldom. This was easier than tracking down another wire that was hot at the right times, making sure what fuse was on it so it wouldn't blow, etc.

I'd keep it simple.