Towing Package, tow ready?

[dodge man]

My 2007 Dodge was fairly easy to install. It came with the plug in, but I had to solder it to the pig tail for the brake controller, although you could buy a pig tail that would be a true plug in for the controller. The thing I don't know, is if I have a 12 volts for charging trailer batteries. Does anyone know if I would have to intall a fuse or something? I don't have the need for it now, but if I were to add a break away sytem, it would be nice.

 

[tommu56]

Pat, this is the norm. At least it is for GM. I believe Ford is the same. Don't know about Dodge, nobody buys them. When I first bought my '99 GM included the fuse and pig tail for the brake controller. As time went on these became extras you had to buy. On my '05 Trailblazer and then my '08 Suburban I had to hook up a wire for the aftermarket brake controller and for the 12-volt. I then had to add a fuse for the 12-volt. So what you are experiencing is the norm.

My 2006 RAM had every thing except brake controller, the plug for it was taped to harness and had the 12 to the plug no additional parts.

tom

 

[George2615]

Pat,
You didn't say what truck you have but it did come ready to tow. You have a built in brake controller, It is wired for all your lights to work. Just plug in and tow. However, Most trucks now do come with a hot lead to power trailer accessories such as a winch or whatever. They just don't have it hooked up in the underhood fuse box. Most trucks that are tow ready have the 12V wire run back to the trailer plug but you would have to either attach the wire or plug in a relay or a fuse depending on which make truck it is. Not all people who tow need a 12V charge lead wired to the trailer plug just that the lights and brakes all work. As an example, one GM truck I owned had the 12V charge wire installed and all I needed to do was plug in a fuse. Another GM truck I had came with the 12V charge wire folded up and attached to the harness under the hood, I just had to un-tape it and hook it up.

 

[jwstewar]

OK, I got what you are saying now Chris. I read what you meant was that you were getting your power & signal wires for the brake controller under the hood. Meaning that you then ran them through the firewall. My bad.

I thought I read something in the manual about what I needed to hook the brakes and aux circuit up in the Suburban. Can't remember now, that was back in January about 2 weeks after we bought it. We are also buying an old gooseneck livestock trailer. This has me a bit edgy as I'm in the process of looking for hitches (I think I just found one and they are going to install it Friday). I'll probably wire the 5th wheel wiring harness up before I go there though as I will probably go pick the trailer up after the hitch is install. Never thought I would use that 5th wheel wiring option - especially since the truck is 10 years old and I hadn't used it up to this point.

 

[Diamondpilot]

OK, I got what you are saying now Chris. I read what you meant was that you were getting your power & signal wires for the brake controller under the hood. Meaning that you then ran them through the firewall. My bad.

I thought I read something in the manual about what I needed to hook the brakes and aux circuit up in the Suburban. Can't remember now, that was back in January about 2 weeks after we bought it. We are also buying an old gooseneck livestock trailer. This has me a bit edgy as I'm in the process of looking for hitches (I think I just found one and they are going to install it Friday). I'll probably wire the 5th wheel wiring harness up before I go there though as I will probably go pick the trailer up after the hitch is install. Never thought I would use that 5th wheel wiring option - especially since the truck is 10 years old and I hadn't used it up to this point.

No problem. Maybe I was not being very clear. You simply get the power to feed the 7 pin plug on the truck and power for the brake controller by hooking up the wires that are bundled up under the hood.

I have never had to put a wiring harness in the bed of any truck I have installed a 5th wheel or GN hit in. The wiring lead on the trailers was always long enough to make it down to the under bumper plug. I always figured it was one less area for wiring to go bad if I could talk my customers out of the in bed plug. Check the trailer, but I would bet you really don't need to install a plug there. If not I would recommend getting a longer pig tail for the trailer rather than cutting another hole in your bed and splicing all the wires.

What hitch are you getting in you bed? We really like the B&W.

Chris

 

[patrick_g]

There's no sense getting worked up over a few bucks, IMO.

In my case it isn't the few $ for the relay and the fuse it is the inconvenience of having the trailer battery run down instead of charged and potentially damaged by being discharged under load when I was told point blank it was ready to tow my trailer.

OK, there is towing and then there is TOWING. I guess I should not be surprised that sales folk don't know, care, or understand. My trailers (all three) have break away systems and each has a battery to power it in the event of a disconnect. We are in a rural ranching area where small cow calf operations are very common and a large percentage of PU owners pull trailers. The NORM here would be to need the charge line operable. Perhaps that is a GOLDEN opportunity for the dealer to sell you the parts as a separate transaction and not for them to "give it to you." Now that I know what I need to do I will do it but I won't miss the chance to run it by my dealer as having the appearance of something not quite right in the situation.

Pat

 

[radman1]

I bought a Toyota Highlander Sport model a couple of years ago. Salesman tells the the sport model comes with additional components for towing. The sport model has the transmission cooler for pulling and wiring in the back for the trailer plug in harness included in the package. Only 1 problem. No hitch. That will be and additional $450 thank you.

 

[OneMan]

Pat,
You didn't say what truck you have but it did come ready to tow. You have a built in brake controller, It is wired for all your lights to work. Just plug in and tow. However, Most trucks now do come with a hot lead to power trailer accessories such as a winch or whatever. They just don't have it hooked up in the underhood fuse box. Most trucks that are tow ready have the 12V wire run back to the trailer plug but you would have to either attach the wire or plug in a relay or a fuse depending on which make truck it is. Not all people who tow need a 12V charge lead wired to the trailer plug just that the lights and brakes all work. As an example, one GM truck I owned had the 12V charge wire installed and all I needed to do was plug in a fuse. Another GM truck I had came with the 12V charge wire folded up and attached to the harness under the hood, I just had to un-tape it and hook it up.

HELP HELP HELP
Ok, I am probably a complete idiot but I thought you cold just hook up a trailer to your tow hitch and if the vehicle is rated to pull the trailer weigh, you were all right after you plugged into the hitch electric. No?
My son just bought a new 18' Carry On to haul a new JD 3032E with his 2000 Chevy Suburban. The hitch was there as well as the electric hookup. Got it brand new off the lot when he bought it.
Are you telling me that his set up is not going to activate the dual brakes on the trailer? What 12v wiring , brake controller, or fuse relay are all of you talking about? I got grandkids in that GM infront of the JD. HELP HELP

 

[jwstewar]

No problem. Maybe I was not being very clear. You simply get the power to feed the 7 pin plug on the truck and power for the brake controller by hooking up the wires that are bundled up under the hood.

I have never had to put a wiring harness in the bed of any truck I have installed a 5th wheel or GN hit in. The wiring lead on the trailers was always long enough to make it down to the under bumper plug. I always figured it was one less area for wiring to go bad if I could talk my customers out of the in bed plug. Check the trailer, but I would bet you really don't need to install a plug there. If not I would recommend getting a longer pig tail for the trailer rather than cutting another hole in your bed and splicing all the wires.

What hitch are you getting in you bed? We really like the B&W.

Chris

I think it probably would reach. I was just afraid it could get caught on the tailgate. I was looking at the B&Ws online and that is what I was going to get. I found it for $400 with free shipping. I then called a local place that has a very good recommendation from several sources. They will install their brand for $400. They said it is 30k rated. Nothing in the bed except the ball and it is removable. I figure at this point the truck is 10 years old and it is only a half ton. When I get ready to trade trucks in a year or two, I'll get the B&W. Right now I'm tasking the truck pretty good with all that I'm asking it to do. Between the 36' camper, my 18' utility trailer, and now this livestock trailer. It just keeps plugging along w/o complaining or breakdowns.

 

[Diamondpilot]

HELP HELP HELP
Ok, I am probably a complete idiot but I thought you cold just hook up a trailer to your tow hitch and if the vehicle is rated to pull the trailer weigh, you were all right after you plugged into the hitch electric. No?
My son just bought a new 18' Carry On to haul a new JD 3032E with his 2000 Chevy Suburban. The hitch was there as well as the electric hookup. Got it brand new off the lot when he bought it.
Are you telling me that his set up is not going to activate the dual brakes on the trailer? What 12v wiring , brake controller, or fuse relay are all of you talking about? I got grandkids in that GM infront of the JD. HELP HELP

Well, if its a 2000 Suburban you will need at a minimum the electric brake controller and a 7 pin or old style 6 pin round connector at the rear. You will also need to install the proper fuse in the fuse panel if you truck has one of these plugs to allow your trucks alternator to charge the trailers small break away battery.

If it has the 7 pin plug that is about the diameter of a golf ball you are better off since that is the industry standard. The old style is a 6 round and is about the diameter of a nickle.

You can go to a local Uhaul or any RV dealer and have these items installed. Brake controllers start at $75 plus install which should be about $30 if you do have the 6 pin or 7 pin at the rear. You can spend upwards of $400 if you want but they all do the same thing, just the more expensive have more features. If you tow once a month get the cheap one. If you tow a few times a month buy something digital like a Prodigy for about $150. You will also need a $5 fuse for the GM trucks to do the trailer battery charging. A wiring pigtail will also be needed and they usually run $10 to $20 depending on what you need. If you are up to it this can be a DIY project. Here is the directions for your tow rig.

chevy gmc brake control install

If you call the folks at R&P they will set you up. Talk to Paul. He is a great guy, so is his wife. They both know towing.

Chris