New and yup, ANOTHER log splitter project

[Wineslob]

I think the exagerated ratings have led us to believe we need a bigger splitter than we do I have built a PILE of 15 ton splitters and you just dont find rounds under 20 inches long that they wont push through a single sharp wedge.

I have to agree with you on that. I used a splitter last year that looked like it wouldent split matchsticks. The ram floated on a chunk of angle iron, with a pusher that couldent have been more than 4" tall and cut to "fit" into the angle. The blade was roughly 6" tall and welded into the end of the angle iron. The cyl, I think, may have been 2 1/2", maybe 3".
You could watch the angle iron flex with every cut which caused "wandering".
Yet this darned thing could (just barely) cut 20" rounds of semi-green oak, and dry pine or walnut was no problem.
One thing that was nice is it was on a 48" X 48" trailer, that was skinned with 1/2" ply, so stacking several rounds on it worked out pretty well.

One question: how close to the blade do you guys set the ram/pusher at the end of stroke?
The above unit was about 1" maybe more, and sometimes it woulden't complete a split.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have to agree with you on that. I used a splitter last year that looked like it wouldent split matchsticks. The ram floated on a chunk of angle iron, with a pusher that couldent have been more than 4" tall and cut to "fit" into the angle. The blade was roughly 6" tall and welded into the end of the angle iron. The cyl, I think, may have been 2 1/2", maybe 3".
You could watch the angle iron flex with every cut which caused "wandering".
Yet this darned thing could (just barely) cut 20" rounds of semi-green oak, and dry pine or walnut was no problem.
One thing that was nice is it was on a 48" X 48" trailer, that was skinned with 1/2" ply, so stacking several rounds on it worked out pretty well.

One question: how close to the blade do you guys set the ram/pusher at the end of stroke?
The above unit was about 1" maybe more, and sometimes it woulden't complete a split.

It two parts must never touch. How far? Dunno, my old homeuilt was around 3", my new Troybilt is proably in the 1-2" range. When it doesn't finish the split, I just back off and through a chunk in behind the block being split and hit it again.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I'd agree if ur hauling, but my plan is to put it on a 3 point and just back up to the piece to split. I split some 24" stuff, post oak, and I have been rolling them into a bucket and dropping them in mass into a dump trailer til now. All that size are split the next year ( seasoned) at the pile. I'd disagree on the effort. Flipping a nice sized piece of oak on end is not the same as hoisting it onto a horizontal beam... not even close.

.

It isn't that first 'flip' that is the problem although even that is problematical as you have less 'leverage' for positioning it. It is the bending over, kneeling, or squattting to keep repositioning for followon splits and getting those splits out of the way that is the problem.

I wonder how many of us who have the convertible types actually use them in the vertical? I don't but then I don't take it to the field with me - if I did I would use that way to bust down the big stuff but only far enough to lift. Small would still be done horizontal.

Harry K

 

[Wineslob]

It two parts must never touch. How far? Dunno, my old homeuilt was around 3", my new Troybilt is proably in the 1-2" range. When it doesn't finish the split, I just back off and through a chunk in behind the block being split and hit it again.

Harry K

Thanks!

 

[GE222]

Her is my 2 cents.
Two cylinders will work great, but, the mounting must be designed to divide the forces equally from both cylinders. If not, issues may arise from side forces being introduced. I would think that a fixed wedge versus movable would be the way to go.

 

[sizzami]

a good way to set up the distance from wedge to pusher us measure the thickness of your wrist and dont go closer than that

 

[Wineslob]

a good way to set up the distance from wedge to pusher us measure the thickness of your wrist and dont go closer than that

Haden't thought about that!

 

[Greg9504]

I am in the process of building a 2 cylinder, guillotine style splitter to split standing pieces.

If you use two cylinders you will most likely require a divider/combiner valve. If you keep the hose lengths from the tee equal, all fittings the same, all hoses the same size/brand you might be able to keep them in sync without the divider valve. Although you wont be able to control internal differences between the cylinders (seals).

Having just gone through this, I ended up with a divider/combiner valve. With UNEQUAL length hoses one cylinder would go through its full stroke before the second would move.

Also if you rigidly connect the two cylinders (say to a blade) you need to make sure you use a divider valve with differential relief (or a counter balance valve) to protect against binding. Actually I just wouldn't rigidly connect the two cylinders. Differential relief is still nice to have for re-syncing the cylinder when the cylinder bottoms.

Add in the cost of the divider valve/fittings/hoses and it will probably be cheaper for the original poster to just get a bigger cylinder.

Sunkistdds, I'd be interested to know your results with two cylinders and whether or not you ended up requiring a divider/combiner valve.

 

[Wineslob]

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I'm staying with a single cyl.
I've started on this "thing" and so far, so good. Got the tank built, it'll be the "frame" the axle is welded to. I also welded up the mount and welded it to the 6" "I" beam and honestly, I'd never get a cyl with the ports coming out of the baseplate. Causes some......problems, that I've sorted out.
Another question, with this being a fixed horizontal machine, wedge on the ram or foot?

 

[J_J]

50/50 toss up on that.