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[Polaris35]

I have a Cub Cadet 1450 with no spark. I replaced the condensor and points, but still no spark. The engine cranks over just fine, but absolutely no spark. I confirmed there is power to the points, and both sides of the coil. Any ideas what I need to check/replace next?

Thank you

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Saftey switches? (seat, mower deck, ect)

 

[J_J]

I have a Cub Cadet 1450 with no spark. I replaced the condensor and points, but still no spark. The engine cranks over just fine, but absolutely no spark. I confirmed there is power to the points, and both sides of the coil. Any ideas what I need to check/replace next?

Thank you

Do you have standard points and coil? How did you confirm that you have power to the points. If everything is hooked up correctly, and you have power to the points, then it should fire. The points is the last leg in the spark generation, so when the points closes, the coil builds up energy, and when the points open, the high voltage is generated, and flows to the plugs. In order to kill a running engine, you ground out the coil. Find that wire, it may still be grounded. Sometimes this is done with the throttle control by pulling it past idle.

Do you have a schematic for the wiring?

 

[DJ54]

Did you just acquire this, or did it just quit running?? If it has set out in the rain, it may be possible that the magnet on the flywheel is rusty, and needs cleaning up. Also clean the pickup. Crocus cloth, or if need be, some fine wet & dry sandpaper. Just make sure to blow out any residue.

I like to use medium roloc pads on my angle grinder, to buff the magnet(s). Polishes them real nice.

My GF's Sears twin cylinder had the same problem this spring, after sitting in the barn, and apparently condensation had rusted the magnets. Polished them up, and cleaned the pickup's, and ran like new.

And like the other fellows said, check for worn through covers on leads, grounding it out.

 

[DJ54]

http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf

Here is a link to a online repair manual for you K321. Refer to section 8 for the wiring.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...In order to kill a running engine, you ground out the coil. Find that wire, it may still be grounded.

That was my thought. A typical troubleshooting step for me if there's no spark is to disconnect the grounding wire from the coil and test fire it. That will tell me if it's actually an ignition system problem or if it's some other wiring issue like safety switches, etc.

Also, how are you checking for spark? If you're checking by looking for blue on the plug, you may just need a new plug. I use an inline spark checker, and I've seen spark at the tester and no spark from the plug.

 

[J_J]

After looking at the pdf above, he could have several different electrical systems. Is it breaker-less ign, or just points/battery ign/or electronic ign? The pdf explains all three. and how to test them.

 

[KennyV]

A 1450 has regular points and coil... I have one with what seems like a million hours on it. Great little garden tractor.

He should have 12 volts at his coil with the key on. With the key off and the points closed he should measure zero or low ohms to engine block on the other leg of his coil. If he is checking all this out his problem is most likely his coil they are known to just quit.

This engine is shut off by removing the 12 volts to the coil using the ignition switch. KennyV

 

[ToadHill]

This may sound stupid but I've been known to do it, Is the rotor properly mounted on the distributor shaft?

 

[ToadHill]

Never mind, single cylinder, no rotor needed.