idea to keep rain fron getting under garage door

[whitedogone]

This is how it's done 'round here.

slope floor towards door...then step down 3/4" or so and slope that as well. Broomed finish on the "door" part.... smooth troweled on the floor part. Works great

 

[Lacal]

A friend of mine just installed this product and said the extra piece was the key. It is a little more expenisive then most products.

http://www.amazon.com/Tsunami-Seal®-Garage-Threshold-Black/dp/B000XQCMDO/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

 

[whitedogone]

A friend of mine just installed this product and said the extra piece was the key. It is a little more expenisive then most products.

http://www.amazon.com/Tsunami-Seal®-Garage-Threshold-Black/dp/B000XQCMDO/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Problem with those extra pieces like that is when water does get in (and it will get in) you can't just sweep or squeegee it out. We have an attached garage and at times in the winter I push 5+ gallons of slushy muck out the front door after the wife pulls out in the morning.

 

[smitty9266]

purchase a thicker garage door bottom seal they are available in 3" (standard) or 4" or 6". So that means 3/4 1" and 2" inches tall. If you need more than a 2" thick bottom seal you need to adjust your door. That is a good question is your door adjusted to close all the way? If it has a door opener adjust the opener for full closure. or if you are ambitious go to the rental center and rent a up-rite concrete grinder and grind a taper on the edge so water runs out.

Jeff

 

[Kfbeal]

I'm not sure water would get in if you do it like whitedogone . When we built our garage, our doors were 2 - 16' x 9' doors and we ran a 2 x 12 x 16' to get what whitedogone has. We have roughly a 1-1/2" drop from finished slab to the bottom of the door plus the rubber gasket. Our door sits down in the recess and have never had water blow in when closed. Our doors face the East which is not too good down here but never had many problems.

 

[whitedogone]

It will keep water out for sure. I've watched the door as a 60mph rain was driven against it. Just a little wet at the ends and it never gets past that. It only takes a 3/4" jump at the most. You just have to make sure it goes past where the door will sit on the inside and past the door tracks on the ends.

 

[Lacal]

whitedogone - that looks like a great idea, but mechanic's garage is already built. Seems like a lot of work to go back and fix. Then again, if it works then in the long run would pay for itself over the years. I'm just glad I don't need to deal with snow anymore.

 

[PILOON]

As you suggested, use a concrete saw blade and cut a slit full length of the door (about, say 1 1/4IN deep) and from that slit, at each end, slits that lead to the outside.

Next get a , say 1/4" X 2" flat steel (note that the slit needs to accept the 1/4" flat) and insert the flat into the slit glueing it in place with an epoxy paste or perhaps even a urathane caulking (suggest Frextra ).
You might even use a wider flat if you wished a higher dam.
At the 2 ends you would also insert short flats to lead water to the outside without soaking the wood framing.

Now whenever driving in the doorway your tractor will simply ride up and over the edge of the flat and the water will stay on the outside.

Basically what is often seen on older wooden doors set in wooden frames except they used a narrower thinner flat and hammered it into a saw slit.

 

[whitedogone]

whitedogone - that looks like a great idea, but mechanic's garage is already built. Seems like a lot of work to go back and fix. Then again, if it works then in the long run would pay for itself over the years. I'm just glad I don't need to deal with snow anymore.

That's what they make them saws for. Nothing like doing something right the first time once ( OK,,, second time) .