Looking at used 1850's - its Charlie's fault!

[Charlie_Iliff]

Have you looked at/thought of using a swisher style mower behind the PT? something like this perhaps: Swisher Mower & Machine Co.: T-66 Trailmower

Aaron Z

That is similar to the Kunz Acrease I tow. You might look at a smaller one to put on your boom out front.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I had custom blades made for my 1850 mower. Heavier, hardened steel, but with a lift put in on the tips. It is a brush mower (not finish). The lifts create a lot of dust for me. In the fall it is mask time or allergy attack. Also the air filter gets used up even quicker.

 

[toy]

One of you mentioned reinforcing the lift arms to be able to lift a heavier load, if I was considering doing that I would also consider reinforcing the mounting points for the lift arms. As far as the breaks on the tram motors has any one considered teeing into the pressure lines of the tram circuit and putting piloted check valves in the lines on both hoses going to the wheel motors, that way when you hit the tram pedal it would send pressure to the wheel units like always but also some of the pressure would go to the check valves to open them and it would tram as usual but if something interrupted the oil pressure to the wheel motors then the check valves would automatically close on both sides of the wheel unit trapping what oil that is in the wheel unit so that it can't get back to tank. That blockage might not completely stop the wheels from turning because of wheel motor bypass but it would hinder the free wheeling that you were talking about and if there was no bypassing then it would stop the machine. I have seen check valves on lift cylinders that if a hose busted it would not let the load drop, but I wouldn't trust my life with a check valve holding a load up tp get under it to work I would properly block the load up first before getting under a load, likewise I only made these suggestions to give ideas on what might work. These suggestions may sound silly to you, if they do then disregard them.

 

[wasabi]

One of you mentioned reinforcing the lift arms to be able to lift a heavier load, if I was considering doing that I would also consider reinforcing the mounting points for the lift arms. As far as the breaks on the tram motors has any one considered teeing into the pressure lines of the tram circuit and putting piloted check valves in the lines on both hoses going to the wheel motors, that way when you hit the tram pedal it would send pressure to the wheel units like always but also some of the pressure would go to the check valves to open them and it would tram as usual but if something interrupted the oil pressure to the wheel motors then the check valves would automatically close on both sides of the wheel unit trapping what oil that is in the wheel unit so that it can't get back to tank.... That blockage might not completely stop the wheels from turning because of wheel motor bypass but it would hinder the free wheeling that you were talking about and if there was no bypassing then it would stop the machine. I have seen check valves on lift cylinders that if a hose busted it would not let the load drop, but I wouldn't trust my life with a check valve holding a load up tp get under it to work I would properly block the load up first before getting under a load, likewise I only made these suggestions to give ideas on what might work. These suggestions may sound silly to you, if they do then disregard them.

not silly at all. I really appreciate the suggestion. my mind is still struggling to grasp hydraulics so it absolutely makes sense to me....

In the spirit of "getting to know your tractor better", this weekend I discovered my 2445 is actually equipped with disks and brake tenders...will the brake tender circuit (elec switch activated) work in a busted hose scenario??...if so, perhaps i could have just thrown the switch to stop the beast?

Is wearing both belt and suspenders considered geeky?

 

[J_J]

If you have the internal brakes, I believe they start to apply at or below around 650 psi, but I don't know if it is gradual or instant.

 

[J_J]

One of you mentioned reinforcing the lift arms to be able to lift a heavier load, if I was considering doing that I would also consider reinforcing the mounting points for the lift arms. As far as the breaks on the tram motors has any one considered teeing into the pressure lines of the tram circuit and putting piloted check valves in the lines on both hoses going to the wheel motors, that way when you hit the tram pedal it would send pressure to the wheel units like always but also some of the pressure would go to the check valves to open them and it would tram as usual but if something interrupted the oil pressure to the wheel motors then the check valves would automatically close on both sides of the wheel unit trapping what oil that is in the wheel unit so that it can't get back to tank. That blockage might not completely stop the wheels from turning because of wheel motor bypass but it would hinder the free wheeling that you were talking about and if there was no bypassing then it would stop the machine. I have seen check valves on lift cylinders that if a hose busted it would not let the load drop, but I wouldn't trust my life with a check valve holding a load up tp get under it to work I would properly block the load up first before getting under a load, likewise I only made these suggestions to give ideas on what might work. These suggestions may sound silly to you, if they do then disregard them.

I had thought of that years ago, when I had a busted hose on a wheel motor. The wheel motors will act as a pump, at the same time the engine is trying to pump fluid . If you had a pilot operated check valve or electric valve on the wheel motor, that might stop any fluid flow through the wheel motor.

 

[wasabi]

If you have the internal brakes, I believe they start to apply at or below around 650 psi, but I don't know if it is gradual or instant.

it says "spring applied brake" on the side, but all i know is when the switch is flipped it will try to hold but still allow movement whilst squealing...needs adjust i suspect...

btw, i looked at the wheels....4 1/2" center-six bolt configuration (6" centers). I'm looking into smaller wheels, spacers and lug tires to dualie her up for lower torque and better traction...

 

[J_J]

it says "spring applied brake" on the side, but all i know is when the switch is flipped it will try to hold but still allow movement whilst squealing...needs adjust i suspect...

btw, i looked at the wheels....4 1/2" center-six bolt configuration (6" centers). I'm looking into smaller wheels, spacers and lug tires to dualie her up for lower torque and better traction...

Exactly, the springs are applied when the pressure goes below about 650 psi. Therefore the pump, which is to release the brakes for towing, etc. In neutral, I believe the brakes are applied.

If you use the same wheel motors, you will have to design the motor housing to extend out more to allow the reversed wheel [ deep dish in ] to mount, and then a spacer so the rims do not touch.

I also think your center of gravity is to high, and with you sitting up there, even more so. That is the way I see it, actual operation may may work better than expected. How do you feel on a 35 degree hill now?

On the brake squealing thing, that is your brakes dragging until the pressure has built up to at least about 650 psi. .

 

[wasabi]

That is similar to the Kunz Acrease I tow. You might look at a smaller one to put on your boom out front.

I've thought about a self powered unit out front and may go that route...I'm curious how wheel / tire size changes will alter the power ratio...also just how taxing running both mowers would be... i can mess with formulas and try to compute it all day, but how it operates on the hills is what matters. I'm going to start w/ smaller dualie wheels and a front 72" rough mower....

 

[J_J]

Smaller tires will give a little more torque.