BearKiller
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2009
- Messages
- 230
Well, it finally quit pouring the rain long enough for me to run a little test on my shiny new H-F quick-hitch.
In the mean time, I have reamed out every other hole for the J-hook to 5/8 and re-drilled the J-hook holes 11/16, such that instead of the supplied metric bolts, I now use 5/8 hitch-pins.
I was afraid drilling all the holes to the larger size would not leave enough metal between the holes, so I opted to do the top and bottom ones, and skip every other hole, thus having four re-sized holes.
I looked closely at various peoples pictures of the top-link adapter and welded up one for myself.
Looking ahead, I had screwed a plywood base to the end of a scrap length of pallet cant, about five by seven, maybe eighteen inches long, such that this became a support leg to hold the front end of the six-foot grader-blade at about operating height, instead of laying on the ground.
As the builders plate is illegible, and it is heavy as sin, I have no notion of who manufactured this ancient blade, but it fits the quick-hitch as though purpose-built for it.
The only draw-back is, due to a design necessity, the top J-hook will not work, so I have to use the top-link adapter.
So, with quick-hitch mounted, I backed up to the blade and was able to easily hook it up without leaving the operator's seat.
The orange 4-foot King Kutter bush-hog is not going to be so easy, as no piece, part, or particle of it comes even close to mating with the quick-hitch; no problem, as I have already got hitch adaptations drew out on paper and plenty of new steel laying on the floor; when I get done, it will work as planned.
Thanks to everyone that has given advice, posted pictures, and convinced me that I could not live without a quick-hitch.
In the mean time, I have reamed out every other hole for the J-hook to 5/8 and re-drilled the J-hook holes 11/16, such that instead of the supplied metric bolts, I now use 5/8 hitch-pins.
I was afraid drilling all the holes to the larger size would not leave enough metal between the holes, so I opted to do the top and bottom ones, and skip every other hole, thus having four re-sized holes.
I looked closely at various peoples pictures of the top-link adapter and welded up one for myself.
Looking ahead, I had screwed a plywood base to the end of a scrap length of pallet cant, about five by seven, maybe eighteen inches long, such that this became a support leg to hold the front end of the six-foot grader-blade at about operating height, instead of laying on the ground.
As the builders plate is illegible, and it is heavy as sin, I have no notion of who manufactured this ancient blade, but it fits the quick-hitch as though purpose-built for it.
The only draw-back is, due to a design necessity, the top J-hook will not work, so I have to use the top-link adapter.
So, with quick-hitch mounted, I backed up to the blade and was able to easily hook it up without leaving the operator's seat.
The orange 4-foot King Kutter bush-hog is not going to be so easy, as no piece, part, or particle of it comes even close to mating with the quick-hitch; no problem, as I have already got hitch adaptations drew out on paper and plenty of new steel laying on the floor; when I get done, it will work as planned.
Thanks to everyone that has given advice, posted pictures, and convinced me that I could not live without a quick-hitch.
