Tire Ballast

[rancherogt]

Instead of the corrosive calcium-chloride for ballest everybody find a tire dealer that uses beet juice instead. Here is the link to the product that I use. Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast Product Information

Priceing is just a bit higher than the CC price but I am sold on the stuff. When I replaced my worn out Firestones on the 1210 2 years ago the rims looked as good as new. I did not see any corrosion on them at all.

Jay

 

[BearKiller]

Not unheard of to roll out duct tape on the inside channel of a pitted rim.

soundguy

We have used miles and miles of duct-tape on rusty rims, both with and without fluid.

My own observation on this is that it is purely a band-aid to just get by on when the customer is too penny-pinching to buy a wheel.

The tape may protect the tube for a short while, but while doing so, it hastens the problem it was supposed to protect from.

The next time that wheel is in for repair, it is usually too far gone to be safely inflated.



Also, it may be pure bs, whatever that means, that you cannot rinse off calcium-chloride, but my many years of experience dealing with the stuff has shown me much evidence to the contrary.


Maybe we are doing something wrong or the stuff we are dealing with is a stronger solution than what you are familiar with.

 

[Egon]

Maybe we are doing something wrong or the stuff we are dealing with is a stronger solution than what you are familiar with.

The metal of the rim has lost it's protective coating that prevents rust from occurring. The unprotected metal is left exposed to air/ moisture and the rusting reaction may continue. The rate of progression may in part be determined by the local humidity conditions and to what extent dissolved particles of salt may be in the local air.

Not: Most aircraft graveyards are located in areas of very dry air.

 

[BearKiller]

The rate of progression may in part be determined by the local humidity conditions

YES, humidity plays a key role in the longevity of anything and I do live in the most humidity-plagued area of the world = Kentucky.

We are blessed with more moisture laden air than anywhere else in the world; third generation children develop gills.

On the sunniest dryest day of the year, we can hang dry towels on a clothes-line and wring water from them that night.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree, but at least me when you have a tire repair guy out it was tough to do much with them that requires time to dry, etc. If you could take the tire off yourself that would be different.

they aren't all that hard to take off and put on.. I do most of them myself.. though i keep promising myself I'l stop that one day.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I'm looking at a piece of equipment with CC in the rear tires. Let's say I want to get rid of it.

How would one get rid of it....safely.

pump it out.

got any gravel roads or long driveways with annoying plants? growing inthe median?

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Instead of the corrosive calcium-chloride for ballest everybody find a tire dealer that uses beet juice instead. Here is the link to the product that I use. Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast Product Information

Priceing is just a bit higher than the CC price but I am sold on the stuff. When I replaced my worn out Firestones on the 1210 2 years ago the rims looked as good as new. I did not see any corrosion on them at all.

Jay

It's -WAY- more than just a bit more expensive to load with rim guard vs dirt cheap cacl!!

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

the tone of your message seems to look down on those who do not have enough money to always buy new... what you term 'penny-pinching' may be the difference in a new rim for daddy's farm tractor.. or junior not getting new school shoes.. or dinner ever night...

I've resurected dozens of rims that have had varying degrees of damage from cacl.. or even just water. the pitted ones get washed down, then usually I electrolysis tank them.. the electrolysis pretty much removes -everything from the rim.. paint, grease, dirt.. and oh yeah.. all rust. then a go around with a wire wheel to knock the black powder residue off, another water bath to get rid of the sodium carbonate, dry them, then a rust control primer, and an epoxy paint.. if you did find any rust that the electro-bath missed.. phsophoric acid is a good prep.. naval jelly.. etc. if there are areas that need to be repaired.. then get the welder out and stitch in what you need.. weld up holes and redrill valve stem holes if needed. a peened flat washer makes a great reinforcement around a valve stem hole. some people opt for a treatment like por15 .. it makes a good rust proof environment and is thick enough that it smooths out many bad edges.

I've yet to have 'further' problems with a rim treated as such.

if they are particularly pitted.. then boot them with an old inner tube, a real boot, or the duct tape.. all you are doing is smoothing the surface to prevent abrasion from the pitting, as you have already dealt with the corosion previously.

I have ocasionally found rims rusted thru too thin to re-use, and I usually simply cut the centers out for use with rim blanks..

when I mix cacl.. I go for saturation.. otherwise you are missing weight.

soundguy

We have used miles and miles of duct-tape on rusty rims, both with and without fluid.

My own observation on this is that it is purely a band-aid to just get by on when the customer is too penny-pinching to buy a wheel.

The tape may protect the tube for a short while, but while doing so, it hastens the problem it was supposed to protect from.

The next time that wheel is in for repair, it is usually too far gone to be safely inflated.



Also, it may be pure bs, whatever that means, that you cannot rinse off calcium-chloride, but my many years of experience dealing with the stuff has shown me much evidence to the contrary.


Maybe we are doing something wrong or the stuff we are dealing with is a stronger solution than what you are familiar with.

 

[bpattie]

they aren't all that hard to take off and put on.. I do most of them myself.. though i keep promising myself I'l stop that one day.

soundguy

mute point now SoundGuy, don't have that tractor anymore, but the thought of taking rears off myself is frightening. I attempt a lot myself, but those bad boys had to weigh in over 600 pounds each. without the aid of some lifting device i am pretty sure I could not man handle it. Now draining the fill would lighten it up substantially (presenting another issue) but I expect they would still be a chore to maneuver around.

 

[Soundguy]

Maybe we are doing something wrong

The devil is in the details. the amount of preventative prep work I do on a rim when i break it down is why I have good results.

multiple baths, removing all rust electrically and chemically, recoating with rust preventative materials and primers, and hard surfacing materials like epoxy enamil paints.. etc.. my guess that is the difference.

soundguy