How do you? YM1510-D

MJPetersen · Sep 21, 2009

Last Saturday I replaced the wheel seals in the FWD of my 1510d. What i am wondering is what is the proper procedure or measurement that you should use in screwing in the top screw in cap on the hub. If you screw it in too far you will put undue force on the thrust washers on the bottom of the stack and the mating gear from the differential. It also would not do to have it too loose as the drive gears might not fully engage as they ought.

I am curious what you do in your shops. I have a service manual for the 186, but the front hubs are very different.

Mike

richardt2 · Oct 15, 2009

I rebuilt the knuckles on my 1510 with out much help.I don't think there is too many people that know much about them.What I did find out is that the cap doesn't pre-load the needle bearing thrust washer, the weight of the tractor does that.What it does do is let you set the clearance between the bottom and top knuckle housings.I left about 1/16"-1/8" measured between with weight on the wheels.This is just what I came up with and hope it helps.
Richardt

normde2001 · Oct 15, 2009

I'm not sure exactly what that setup is, but it looks like you would treat it like an automotive front wheel bearing with the castleated nut and cotter key. Tighten until it just stsrts to feel snug and back off to the next looser notch.

MJPetersen · Oct 15, 2009

That is about what I did too, but I was just curious if that was the right thing to do. But no one seemed to have a better idea than I had.

I just figured that you did not want the tractor putting weight on the cap, so I just ran it down until I got daylight between the top bracket and the cap and called it good.

I went through the drive part of the knuckle about a year and half ago, but recently had to change the wheel seal, so I decided that maybe I ought to try to put it together properly.

Thanks for writing and letting me know what you did--makes me feel a little better.

I really like the little tractor and do a lot of different things with it. Today I drove around in the "green belt area" close to our home and gathered limbs that had fallen yesterday in the early wet-wet snow that we had. Most trees still have leaves! I will use it for fire wood--mostly oak, choke cherry, birch, and maple. It is wet of course with leaves still on the trees, but it will cure eventually.

Welcome to TBN. There are lots of ideas on the forum and some pretty good guys. I know that if i can be of any help in anything, I will certainly try.

Mike

MJPetersen · Oct 15, 2009

normde2001 said:
I'm not sure exactly what that setup is, but it looks like you would treat it like an automotive front wheel bearing with the castleated nut and cotter key. Tighten until it just stsrts to feel snug and back off to the next looser notch.

Thanks Norm. This is an interesting design. This is a stack of bevel drive gears on needle bearing centered on a shaft that becomes the kingpin. This stack of gears sits on a thrust bearing. You can screw this cap in just so far and then you start jacking the tractor up on the king pin. What I did was screw the cap in until it just started lifting the tractor on the king pin. Seemed appropriate to me.

Mike