Travel limiter for hyd. cyl.

[Couple of Achers]

Is there such a device that would act as a travel limiter for a dual acting hydraulic cylinder to limit its extented length? The only thing I can come up with would be to put a loop of cable around both ends. Or maybe attach a length of chain some how to both ends? Any ideas?

 

[Duffster]

Is there such a device that would act as a travel limiter for a dual acting hydraulic cylinder to limit its extented length? The only thing I can come up with would be to put a loop of cable around both ends. Or maybe attach a length of chain some how to both ends? Any ideas?

There is a vavle you can get to shut off flow at your predetermined setting.

Can't think of the name of it right now.

 

[J_J]

Is there such a device that would act as a travel limiter for a dual acting hydraulic cylinder to limit its extented length? The only thing I can come up with would be to put a loop of cable around both ends. Or maybe attach a length of chain some how to both ends? Any ideas?

Stroke controls can be either internal or external. Which do you want. The push out/extend can be limited by a bushing on the rod, inside the cyl, or the pull in stroke can be limited by a sleeve on the outside of the cylinder rod.

http://www.wadler.com/products.asp

http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/catpdf/ag_parts/261.pdf

http://www.norwest-mfg.com/catalog/TIL1000.pdf



Hydraulic Cylinder Components, Products

search------stroke control

 

[Wayne County Hose]

What you need is to determine how much stroke you need to remove. Then, you disassemble the cylinder, and put a stroke limiter between the piston and gland. If you look at the Baum hydraulics website, don't have the url handy, you can search for stroke limiter or stroke control and go from there.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Thanks for the replies. I should have given more details in the original post. It is a small bore (1"bore - 1/2" rod) welded cylinder. So I am trying to dream up something external to ad to the cylinder. It has 1500 psi working pressure. That's why I was thinking of a predetermined length of cable formed in a loop and then placed in the tie rod ends then pin the cylinder in place. Once the cylinder stretched out the loop of cable, do you think the cable would hold or would the cylinder just snap the cable? If not a cable, then maybe a chain? I also thought about putting in longer pins and connecting two pieces of chain, one on each side of the cylinder between the pins. But it may just bend the pins or break the ends. Just kind of thinking out loud.

 

[J_J]

That cylinder only has a push force of 1178 lbs, and pull force of 884 lbs. Chain should be OK. I don't think you will break chain, depending on size.

 

[Couple of Achers]

That cylinder only has a push force of 1178 lbs, and pull force of 884 lbs. Chain should be OK. I don't think you will break chain, depending on size.

J_J, I hope you're calculations are right. There was no room to put a chain on the cylinder it self, so I mounted the chain as close to the cylinder as I could without interfering with the travel of the cylinder. Drilling holes in a brand new snowblower can be a little nerve racking, but I figured if I mess it up, somebody can fix it. In theory, this will limit the travel of this 6" stroke cylinder to 5". Since 5" is the over all travel of the blower chute and I couldn't find a 5" stroke cylinder and a 4" stoke retracted length was too short. I really never plan to test this theory. It is more of an insurance policy if I would happen to fall asleep with my finger on the valve lever some day. Thanks everyone for your input. Once I get the plumbing done, I'll let you know how it works.

 

[J_J]

Do you have any idea or the tensile strength of the chain you are using, and the connector link?

 

[Couple of Achers]

Do you have any idea or the tensile strength of the chain you are using, and the connector link?

No, I don't. My intent is to not use the connector link at all. I just used what I had around the shop today basically to get some rough measurements and to get the clevis's mounted. I have to get to town to pick up the plumbing for this, as well as some 1/2" pins, so while I am there I will pick up some new chain for it as well. Based on your calcs, what tensile strength chain should I be looking for?

 

[J_J]

This is double the strngth that the cylinder will push. 1/4 chain.

Gr 43 High Test Binder Chains

 

[Wayne County Hose]

He-heee. For all that trouble, you could have cut an inch off the rod and welded the end back on.

 

[Couple of Achers]

He-heee. For all that trouble, you could have cut an inch off the rod and welded the end back on.

Sure. NOW you tell me! I guess I could have cut it off, but I have no way to weld it back on. And, it really wasn't a lot of trouble. I just had to drill a couple of holes. I do like your idea though. It would make for a lot neater installation. And I suppose the time to take it somewhere to have the shaft shortened would be before I fill it up with oil. Local welders are getting harder to find around here. Seems like none of the younger kids are taking over when the older guys retire.

 

[Couple of Achers]

He-heee. For all that trouble, you could have cut an inch off the rod and welded the end back on.

I do like your idea, and if I can get by with an inch shorter retracted length, I will adopt it.
Thanks.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I do like your idea, and if I can get by with an inch shorter retracted length, I will adopt it.
Thanks.

Retracted length would be the same as now. Didn't really know the exact reason why you needed to limit the stroke or I would have suggested this in the first place.

 

[J_J]

A cylinder operated lever would work, and you don't have to cut anything or weld. When you push on the end of a lever that is secured in the middle and allowed to pivot, what ever distance you push on the the one end will make the other end move the same. Now, shorten one end, and the distance that the arm moves should be smaller. Just another choice. Only need drill bits, nuts, bolts.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Retracted length would be the same as now. Didn't really know the exact reason why you needed to limit the stroke or I would have suggested this in the first place.

Since the rod sticks out of the cylinder almost 1" when fully retracted now. You can see the painted part of the rod in the picture. If I cut that one inch off it will not stick out of the cylinder at all when it is fully retracted. Thus the shorter retracted length. I think if I do cut the rod off one inch, I will then also add a big washer to the bottom of the tie rod end before I weld it back on so the weld doesn't seat down on the seal. The washer will seat down on the cylinder instead.

 

[Mace Canute]

Cutting an inch off the rod and welding the end back on will do nothing to change the stroke of the cylinder, it will still have a six inch stroke even though extended and retracted lengths would be one inch shorter. I think your chain setup is the simplest and most foolproof, plus it has the benefit of working with any stock 6" stroke replacement cylinder if you have the misfortune of having to replace it. It follows the KISS principle and almost looks factory installed.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Cutting an inch off the rod and welding the end back on will do nothing to change the stroke of the cylinder, it will still have a six inch stroke even though extended and retracted lengths would be one inch shorter. I think your chain setup is the simplest and most foolproof, plus it has the benefit of working with any stock 6" stroke replacement cylinder if you have the misfortune of having to replace it. It follows the KISS principle and almost looks factory installed.

Yep, I see loads of factories using a chain to limit the travel of a cylinder. Was that a joke?
What he wanted to do was not limit the stroke, but to shorten the overall length. To take an inch off the rod is the simplest, most dependable way to avoid future problems that there is. While the chain will work in this situation, hopefully, I don't think anybody short of Jeff Foxworthy or Larry The Cable Guy will mistake it for being factory.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Yep, I see loads of factories using a chain to limit the travel of a cylinder. Was that a joke?
What he wanted to do was not limit the stroke, but to shorten the overall length. To take an inch off the rod is the simplest, most dependable way to avoid future problems that there is. While the chain will work in this situation, hopefully, I don't think anybody short of Jeff Foxworthy or Larry The Cable Guy will mistake it for being factory.

Hey, I resemble that remark! Thanks for your input everybody. There is always a lot to learn on this site. I'll take it from here.

 

[soulasphil]

You could also have used a hydraulic instead of a mechanical limiter, such as is used for example in log splitters. On mine, when the ram goes all the way up, it pushes a yellow cover which in turn pulls a small chain which acts on the valve to cut the inflow of oil. I think you could have built something of the kind.