portable electric fence unit

[david sharpley]

I am looking at building a fence unit that can put up 5 miles of 3 strand electric fence on stubble fields It will have to be able to push the posts into frozen land and also remove them and wind up the wire anyone else seen or built one

 

[smiley]

I don't know about powering 5 miles of 3 strand, but I use the loader to push posts in . My buddys grandfather had a pto wire winder for the old 8n and they're availible at TSC etc. there's a thread on here about windind up wire. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/24952-removing-barbed-wire-fence.html
Smiley

 

[BHD]

at one time a number of years ago, there was a company called "Fence Hand", that I have a VCR tape of the machine, (there is no address on the tape or any more information than what I am going to type, and the only picture I have of it is on the tape) and could find nothing on the net,

The machine was a three point mount and tray that held the rod type post, (no flange stabilizer on bottom of post) A rod like in rebar,

this tray was slanted so gravity would feed the rods down,

the next item was a shaft that was drive by a hydraulic motor, and this shaft had two short arms on it, that would extend up to the tray, (on back of tray there must have been to "L" shaped stops for the rods to set against, the shaft would rotate and the arms pick up one post and swing it up and over to the "driver",

the driver was mounted about in the middle of the unit, and was an arm that pivoted, two cylinders operated, (I do not know but looked like they were operated by one valve, there may have been some type of sequencing or it may just have been the size of the the cylinders),
any way there was a tilt cylinder and driver cylinder, the tilt would tilt it 90 degrees, flat and up and down, when flat it could receive the rod from the rotating shaft,
the driver cylinder, had a driver head that was "U" shaped, (guessing there may have been a magnet in it as well to hold the fence rod until driven, there was some extensions on the "front" side of it as to catch the post as it was flipped into the driver, the second cylinder after being rotated into an up right position would then drive the post by retracting, they would raise the driver, pull forward, lay the driver flat, and load another post and repeat the process,

it had a place for rolls of wire that could unroll as one drove forward, and there was an attachment on the post loader so it could be used as wire winder as well.

one more thing the unit was three point mounted, they had feet on it and would set it down ever post, (If I was doing it I would consider either a trailer or caster type wheels on it, (they set the post depth). So one would not have to mess with an additional lever. raising and lowering the three point,

it looked fairly slick really, but the posts had to be perfect, straight, and the insulators had to be put on and taken off, (some do not like to remove them), (and the wire was the factory reels, and rolled back up on the factory reels),

at the time I was using Tee posts for most of my fencing and could not see any way of modifying it for tee posts unless one hand feed the posts on to the driver. So I never looked into it further.

 

[dirt clod]

I'm holding cattle in a 10 acre lot now with a solar portable charger and temp fence. We used very few posts (I think it was every 90-100' )and fiberglass rods to keep wires from touching. Jeffers had the best deal and price on the solar powered fence charger, I think the one I bought is good for 10 miles and seems to work fine even with heavy wet weeds. The fiber glass poles use push on metal clips to hold wires and are easily driven with a post driver. Everything other than charger I bought at tractor supply. I did make the mistake of getting hi tensile wire, a smaller light duty wire would work much better with this setup. Braids would cost to much and lose to much power IMHO.One of the most important things to get good performance is to have good grounds. we used three ground wires and the center strand of the fence is a ground wire with a hot above and a hot below. Don't forget lighting arestors.

 

[dirt clod]

Oh and welcome to the sickness......... er I mean forum

 

[DanD78]

Any reason for 3 wires? We always run 1 wire around 3' high for years. I have used a portable battery fence charger around a small pasture with success. I don't think one of the disposable battery chargers will do 5 miles. I know a guy that has one that runs off a 12V auto battery and it will kick your butt. He changes the battery out with another once a week. Not sure how long it would last till dead.

Dan

 

[BHD]

My method for temporary electric fence,

first for cattle we use one wire,

I put in wood posts for corners, (I have a wire roller) and made a bracket (2"x2" tube and a piece of receiver tube welded in the edge of the bed of the truck and have a way of mounting the roller reel on the bracket, that I use to unroll the wire,

I first unroll the wire and usually stretch it, it helps one get a straight fence,
and then I use rod posts either 1/2" or 3/8" rebar are most,

and it is nice if you have a driver for the pickup, but put the posts in the back with a bucket of insulators, and step off about 100 feet, hammer in a post put the insulator on and the wire in, and repeat,
If I have to work by my self, I take a pocket full of insulators and about 6 to 8 posts and walk putting in the posts putting on the insulators, when I run out I go one more spacing and put the hammer down, (marking the spot for the next post, walk back and drive the truck forward),
I just put in a mile and halve this afternoon

with a driver one can do it nearly as fast as slow walk,

to take it out this is my method, as usually I have to do it by my self,

I will start at one end, usually cut the wire, or remove it from the corner post, add one sash weight, (the old cast iron weight out of a old double hung window) it adds a little weight and keeps the last hundred yards of wire from getting tangled and messed up,

then start to walk pulling posts, and carry up to 8 of them, and then lay them down by one that is not pulled, and then do it again until all are removed and the wire is out of the marking posts (the posts that were left in so I could find the bundles of posts I pulled), depending on how I feel I either roll up the wire or drive around picking up the pulled posts piles,
less getting in and out of the truck, when in piles, and then hook up the wire roller, and roll up the wire, (I usually just roll up a half a mile at a time, but have spliced the wire at the corners and rolled up a mile at a time), usually roll up the entire circle of wire on one setting.

but I average about 5 miles fence a year or many years, and I try to get a little help to drive when setting the posts, but the rest I usually do by my self.

depending on the conditions some times we use "Tee" post, if tumble weeds may be involved or other conditions that would desirer a little better posts. and then use a post pounder for the Tee posts.

 

[david sharpley]

that sounds like a great machine very close to the one ratteling around in my head[/B]

at one time a number of years ago, there was a company called "Fence Hand", that I have a VCR tape of the machine, (there is no address on the tape or any more information than what I am going to type, and the only picture I have of it is on the tape) and could find nothing on the net,

The machine was a three point mount and tray that held the rod type post, (no flange stabilizer on bottom of post) A rod like in rebar,

this tray was slanted so gravity would feed the rods down,

the next item was a shaft that was drive by a hydraulic motor, and this shaft had two short arms on it, that would extend up to the tray, (on back of tray there must have been to "L" shaped stops for the rods to set against, the shaft would rotate and the arms pick up one post and swing it up and over to the "driver",

the driver was mounted about in the middle of the unit, and was an arm that pivoted, two cylinders operated, (I do not know but looked like they were operated by one valve, there may have been some type of sequencing or it may just have been the size of the the cylinders),
any way there was a tilt cylinder and driver cylinder, the tilt would tilt it 90 degrees, flat and up and down, when flat it could receive the rod from the rotating shaft,
the driver cylinder, had a driver head that was "U" shaped, (guessing there may have been a magnet in it as well to hold the fence rod until driven, there was some extensions on the "front" side of it as to catch the post as it was flipped into the driver, the second cylinder after being rotated into an up right position would then drive the post by retracting, they would raise the driver, pull forward, lay the driver flat, and load another post and repeat the process,

it had a place for rolls of wire that could unroll as one drove forward, and there was an attachment on the post loader so it could be used as wire winder as well.

one more thing the unit was three point mounted, they had feet on it and would set it down ever post, (If I was doing it I would consider either a trailer or caster type wheels on it, (they set the post depth). So one would not have to mess with an additional lever. raising and lowering the three point,

it looked fairly slick really, but the posts had to be perfect, straight, and the insulators had to be put on and taken off, (some do not like to remove them), (and the wire was the factory reels, and rolled back up on the factory reels),

at the time I was using Tee posts for most of my fencing and could not see any way of modifying it for tee posts unless one hand feed the posts on to the driver. So I never looked into it further.

 

[david sharpley]

I know about that lightning stuf my one red cow got fryed ges the guy upstairs dont like reds

I'm holding cattle in a 10 acre lot now with a solar portable charger and temp fence. We used very few posts (I think it was every 90-100' )and fiberglass rods to keep wires from touching. Jeffers had the best deal and price on the solar powered fence charger, I think the one I bought is good for 10 miles and seems to work fine even with heavy wet weeds. The fiber glass poles use push on metal clips to hold wires and are easily driven with a post driver. Everything other than charger I bought at tractor supply. I did make the mistake of getting hi tensile wire, a smaller light duty wire would work much better with this setup. Braids would cost to much and lose to much power IMHO.One of the most important things to get good performance is to have good grounds. we used three ground wires and the center strand of the fence is a ground wire with a hot above and a hot below. Don't forget lighting arestors.

 

[david sharpley]

a lot of land is close to highways and the mounties allways get there cow

Any reason for 3 wires? We always run 1 wire around 3' high for years. I have used a portable battery fence charger around a small pasture with success. I don't think one of the disposable battery chargers will do 5 miles. I know a guy that has one that runs off a 12V auto battery and it will kick your butt. He changes the battery out with another once a week. Not sure how long it would last till dead.

Dan