Chain saw sharpner

[20 20]

If you can keep the angle, save yourself a bost load of money and get a dremel tool with proper grinder size{sold at walmart etc.}some even have giudes. You can also get the 1 that hooks to your vehicles battery{12V} with different size grinders. I've been using these for years {20+} and I can get any chain just as sharp, if not sharper, then the high dollar big guns. I cut any where from 10-20{full} cord a year{heat} plus logs for milling. I also believe in hand filing even if it seems sharp a little touch up at the end of a load will go a long way. Better to stay on top of sharpening then wait until it's binding, cutting to one side, or fighting to make a cut. A sharp chain will add life to a bar clutch and engine, not to mention your back.

 

[okie350]

If you can keep the angle, save yourself a bost load of money and get a dremel tool with proper grinder size.

+1 on the dremel tool. I use a 12 volt power inverter that plugs into my power outlet in the truck and just plug the dremel into it when out in the field.

 

[MotorSeven]

I had the HF one. It worked fine, but the motor made some really strange(I'm going to blow up) noises. Northern Tool had there's on sale for $89 so I bought it. It's a pretty good machine, but like mentioned the wheels are junk. Go to Baileys and get good wheels. I also had to grind a little off the bottom of the angle/clamp plate because it had a slight wobble when tightend down. For less than a hundered bucks, I think it's a good value.

RD

 

[radioman]

I also had the HF one, I didnt care for it. I just passed it off to my father and let him use it. He says he likes it but i hate it. OK- whatever makes him happy.

 

[dodge man]

Update, I ended up buying an Oregon sharpner, its basically a Dremmel with a guide. I used it the first time today and I'm pretty happy with the results. Its 12 volt, which I didn't know when I bought it, but its O.K. because I usually have a vehicle parked near my work bench in my shop, plus I can take it in the field and use it if I want.

 

[BigE_]

Dodge Man,

I think you'll be happy with the Oregon sharpener. It's a pretty good little unit.

There are a few things you'll want to keep in mind.

1. Being a motorized tool, it's pretty easy to blue the teeth on the chain. Use a light touch and you'll avoid doing so.
2. There is a tendency to take off varying amounts on each teeth. With a file, if you keep with the "3 strokes per tooth", they'll generally all stay the same height/width. With the motorized, it's more like "X seconds per tooth", and that time will vary. I bought a cheap caliper to use when sharpening. Every 2-3 sharpenings, I find the smallest tooth and lock the caliper to that setting. (It doesn't matter what the actual reading is). Then I make all the teeth the same width. This will make all of the teeth cut equally, giving you a better cut.
3. Don't forget the rakers! You'll be taking off more metal, so you'll have to file down the rakers a little more often.

 

[jinman]

Update, I ended up buying an Oregon sharpner, its basically a Dremmel with a guide. I used it the first time today and I'm pretty happy with the results. Its 12 volt, which I didn't know when I bought it, but its O.K. because I usually have a vehicle parked near my work bench in my shop, plus I can take it in the field and use it if I want.

I have the Oregon for touchups, but my main sharpener is now the HF after one sharpening. I've never had a chain that cuts as well as the one I did with the HF and then filed down the rakers a bit. This saw powers throuh oak with just its own weight. I may come to hate the HF at some point, but for now I'm a believer.

BTW: I hook my Oregon into a jumper pack lighter 12 volt socket or the 12 volt socket on our Kawasaki Mule. Being a 12 volt tool is why I bought mine.

 

[20 20]

Update, I ended up buying an Oregon sharpner, its basically a Dremmel with a guide. I used it the first time today and I'm pretty happy with the results. Its 12 volt, which I didn't know when I bought it, but its O.K. because I usually have a vehicle parked near my work bench in my shop, plus I can take it in the field and use it if I want.

You should be fine with it. Like someone else said take your time and go light with it. Any sharp chain on a saw should do the cutting, if your forcing at all then it's time for a touch up. Rakers can be tricky, grind off to much and the saw can pull itself to a stop. To little and the teeth don't get the chunks/bite they want. When you do the rakers just take a VERY small amount untill you get use to what they need. Oh and make sure you get the right grinding stone for your chain/s

 

[WayneB]

You should be fine with it. Like someone else said take your time and go light with it. Any sharp chain on a saw should do the cutting, if your forcing at all then it's time for a touch up. Rakers can be tricky, grind off to much and the saw can pull itself to a stop. To little and the teeth don't get the chunks/bite they want. When you do the rakers just take a VERY small amount untill you get use to what they need. Oh and make sure you get the right grinding stone for your chain/s

Good advice on the right stone for the chain!!!! where are you located in the Adriondacks? We have a summer place near South Colton.

 

[dodge man]

The Oregon electirc sharpner came with a gauge, I just figured out what hole my manual file came with and used the correct stone. I still file the rakers with a manual file plus I have a gauge for them.