Shop Tricks

[Kernopelli]

Careful - you can over charge these, and they will melt when you do so. The "zap" trick works on individual cells, when you take the battery apart. The 14.4V battery has 12 of the 1.2V battery cells in it.

But, it sounds like maybe you have the battery going again, so good deal. I suspect your 14.4V charger might be bad, though.

Yeah, when "jolting" them I did quick jumps and while on the automotive charger, I stayed in the garage while it was charging and checked it periodically while it was on. I had actually tried "zapping" it once before and then tried to use the factory charger but to no avail. The automotive charger seemed to have made the difference. I was originally going to take the battery apart, identify the bad cell(s) and replace them....just never got around to it. The charger is a Craftsman quick charger that is the "universal" model for all their newer batteries including the 14.4V and 19.2V. It works fine on my other 14.4 and 19.2 batteries, just doesn't show anything on this particular battery.

 

[mkeith54]

Have you used these to mark metal to be cut/welded? Do they remain visible after being heated? How thick is the line it makes?

Thank,

Clem

Hey Clem,

I use whiteout pens (available at the office super stores. So far it's worked great with my plasma cutter.

Mike

 

[Workstead]

Hey Clem,

I use whiteout pens (available at the office super stores. So far it's worked great with my plasma cutter.

Mike

Mike,

I had forgotten about that. I read somewhere that the lines that are not cut remain visible, even with all the heat around it.

Thanks,

Clem

 

[RedDirt]

I don't know if someone has mentioned it yet but for marking cut lines on metal I have often used a center punch and rap a dot at intervals along the cut layout line. The tighter the curve the closer the interval.

Many times I use a template for cutting especially if I need more than one identical part. I normally use a scrap of 3/4" plywood or particle board for the template. They will last for several cuts until the edges become too charred to reuse.

My pattern often comes directly from my CAD drawing and I'll use an offset line equal to my 1/2 cutting tip to make the template pattern the correct size. I have a 24" wide plotter with roll feed so I can make pretty big patterns this way. I spray adhesive that pattern on the template board then cut out on the bandsaw. Graph paper, freehand or mechanical drawings would work too and a jig saw if you don't have a bandsaw.

If I know my template will not last for the number of duplicate parts I need I just nail or screw several template blanks together and cut them all at the same time.

If you have a part and want to make a cutting template from it you can make a precise negative template by using a flat washer that has a wall 1/2 the thickness of your torch tip. Place the part on the template board and the flat washer touching the part. Put you pencil or pen in the hole of the washer and run it around the part always keeping contact with the part. You'll have a template that is now 1/2 torch tip bigger than your part. Cut with bandsaw or jig saw and use the negative image as your cutting guide.

We'd also use this method for making an exact fit router template. The washer wall would be the difference between the router guide collar and router bit.

The washer spacer trick also works great if you are trying to make any piece bigger, say a mounting board for an oval plaque with an even 1/2" reveal all around or a backing plate for a hydraulic valve that has an irregular footprint.

 

[glh]

Careful - you can over charge these, and they will melt when you do so. The "zap" trick works on individual cells, when you take the battery apart. The 14.4V battery has 12 of the 1.2V battery cells in it.

But, it sounds like maybe you have the battery going again, so good deal. I suspect your 14.4V charger might be bad, though.

i do the zap trick alot
but plsss be very careful
one time i had a DeWalt 14.4 battery that would not charge and did the very same thing yall are talking about worked fine first 4 or 5 times and then one day hooked it up like always and went inside to get a drink and "bang" "bang"
holy---- sound like a 410 shotgun outside my door
the top of the battery pack had blown off and nowere to be seen. 2 cells popped and made a really bad ugly stain on my wooden door in about 60 different spots all the way up the door
if i had been out side still like most the time (holding the battery)
well you know that would not have been good on the skin or in the eyes
so i dont do that little trick anymore
and i know what your thinking
no i didnot hook it up rong i had made it were it only would go in one way
and had it only on a 2amp setting
i checked lol
be careful guys
now i just take um and when i get 2 bad take um apart and test each one find the bad cells and replace with one that tested good from the other one
that works better for me
i have also taken all the cells out drilled a small hole in the side ran wire to the hot side and neg side and made the wires really long with a cigarette lighter plug end and use it a lot when just doing stuff at the truck (the drill was a 12v )
gary...

 

[eastexan]

Diagraph, of course, is the first class way of permanent marking on anything made. Second choice (cheap) is paint sticks that they sell at the lumber yard. I keep a full set of all colors around just for things like you need to mark now.

One word of caution though, once marked, you'll play heck washing them totally off. BTW, they're great for marking tool size imprints. Just rub them across the size stamp, wipe across them with a paper towel, and let them dry.

I really like the idea of using the paint sticks for marking tool size imprints.
A lot of times I work in low light areas, and it would really be handy to easily see the wrench & socket sizes. Maybe even using one color for SAE & one for Metric to keep them from getting mixed together.

I have a question though.
Are you talking about the paint sticks that are like a big crayon that has a consistency of almost dryed paint, or the kind of paint markers that has liquid paint and uses either a felt tip or roller ball?
I think Markal makes both kinds that I've seen in lumber yards.

Ronnie

 

[Gem99ultra]

yep - Markal is the brand. They're just paint sticks, available in about 8 colors for about a buck each.

 

[eastexan]

yep - Markal is the brand. They're just paint sticks, available in about 8 colors for about a buck each.

Great, thanks.

Ronnie

 

[carpenter383]

I don't know if someone has mentioned it yet but for marking cut lines on metal I have often used a center punch and rap a dot at intervals along the cut layout line. The tighter the curve the closer the interval.

Many times I use a template for cutting especially if I need more than one identical part. I normally use a scrap of 3/4" plywood or particle board for the template. They will last for several cuts until the edges become too charred to reuse.

My pattern often comes directly from my CAD drawing and I'll use an offset line equal to my 1/2 cutting tip to make the template pattern the correct size. I have a 24" wide plotter with roll feed so I can make pretty big patterns this way. I spray adhesive that pattern on the template board then cut out on the bandsaw. Graph paper, freehand or mechanical drawings would work too and a jig saw if you don't have a bandsaw.

If I know my template will not last for the number of duplicate parts I need I just nail or screw several template blanks together and cut them all at the same time.

If you have a part and want to make a cutting template from it you can make a precise negative template by using a flat washer that has a wall 1/2 the thickness of your torch tip. Place the part on the template board and the flat washer touching the part. Put you pencil or pen in the hole of the washer and run it around the part always keeping contact with the part. You'll have a template that is now 1/2 torch tip bigger than your part. Cut with bandsaw or jig saw and use the negative image as your cutting guide.

We'd also use this method for making an exact fit router template. The washer wall would be the difference between the router guide collar and router bit.

The washer spacer trick also works great if you are trying to make any piece bigger, say a mounting board for an oval plaque with an even 1/2" reveal all around or a backing plate for a hydraulic valve that has an irregular footprint.

Very good tips RedDirt!

 

[49tandc]

Forgot to add...
Best way of storing chain oil for chain saw is in an old Dishsoap container (Dawn, etc.) These have a snap cap and allow you to point the spout upside down before anything comes out. I keep all my chain oil, files & tools in a milk crate for easy toting access when I cut stuff up.


49T&C