Cold weather slow FEL

[valley]

This is the way the tractor was set up when I bought it. It has worked well all this year after a good system flush. I have no plans to replumb at this time maybe next spring.

 

[SPIKER]

Greetings, There was no flush the FEL will not move.
This tractor has one pump, good point, I didn't try the 3point, but I will.
Rob mentioned the QDs can they be checked by starting the tractor then turning it off then deprissing the valve with a tool or removing the male attachments from the remote?
Bit of a pain, we have wood to split.

IF it is a disconnected QD then you will BLOW your pump if you start it with that disconnected.... It happens a LOT to users when those come apart they blow the pump end seals and usually pump all the hyd fluid into the front of the engine oil sump...

DO NOT DISCONNECT the lines when running!!!!


EDIT IN Weird thing I posted the above yesterday and it didnt show up until I checked today?
Mark

 

[valley]

Spiker, Have you taken a QD apart? Can they be serviced? Richard

 

[greg_g]

Spiker, Have you taken a QD apart? Can they be serviced? Richard

I have, and yes they can. First separate the QD coupling (tractor must NOT be running). You'll note a female half (the one with the sliding collar) and a male half. Then grab a couple of open end wrenches, and each comes right off it's respective hose. Coupler halves can now be inspected/cleaned as required.

//greg//

 

[valley]

That sound like something worth doing. Have you disassembled one? Rob, in one of his threads was talking about taking one apart.

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, I've got a female half on my bench right now. The external spring retainer clip jumped its slot, letting most of the coupler balls fall out. I'm going to a bearing shop today to see if they have the right diameter replacements.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

I have only disconnected mine about 3 times, when my hyd pump went bad, (Brother pressure washed it and damaged a seal when he did.) I rebuilt the pump with factory seals 3 times and it would not work right, ended up with a NEW pump...

servicing the factory disconnects is no big deal, but there really is nothing to go wrong with them, (other than what greg said) and if they POP apart when connecting/disconnecting you always have to make sure the sliders are fully seated forward (towards the two halves.). great safety item is to take a 1/4" wide wire tie and tie around the back slider part of the QD so that it cannot come apart without cutting the wire tie off... this has been a long time fix, someone posted it long ago and I've done it ever sense.

I think someone already mentioned that the relieve valve part of the FEL will bypass the spools and direct fluid back to the return port. this is safety system and prevents spool pressure build up. the passages are all internal to the valve.

I have several posts and made a good bit of documentation, JOHN S used to post here a lot, his page has a lot of good info johnstractor

several links & posts from different people there that John compiled several years back. It is rather old but has very good info for JINMAs look for the "JINMA INFO" and then "JINMA MAINTENANCE" buttons for some good reference tasks...

Mark



Mark

 

[valley]

I have only disconnected mine about 3 times, when my hyd pump went bad, (Brother pressure washed it and damaged a seal when he did.) I rebuilt the pump with factory seals 3 times and it would not work right, ended up with a NEW pump...

servicing the factory disconnects is no big deal, but there really is nothing to go wrong with them, (other than what greg said) and if they POP apart when connecting/disconnecting you always have to make sure the sliders are fully seated forward (towards the two halves.). great safety item is to take a 1/4" wide wire tie and tie around the back slider part of the QD so that it cannot come apart without cutting the wire tie off... this has been a long time fix, someone posted it long ago and I've done it ever sense.

I think someone already mentioned that the relieve valve part of the FEL will bypass the spools and direct fluid back to the return port. this is safety system and prevents spool pressure build up. the passages are all internal to the valve.

I have several posts and made a good bit of documentation, JOHN S used to post here a lot, his page has a lot of good info johnstractor

several links & posts from different people there that John compiled several years back. It is rather old but has very good info for JINMAs look for the "JINMA INFO" and then "JINMA MAINTENANCE" buttons for some good reference tasks...

Mark



Mark, what is a wire tie?

 

[Diamondpilot]

A wire tie is a zip tie. Just a different name. I really recommend you just get rid of all the QC that are not 100% necessary. I put in swivel fitting and have had zero issues.

Chris

 

[valley]

I guess I could instal tees and keep the females on the remote.