Cold weather slow FEL

[valley]

Spiker, I just reread your post. That sounds worth a try! Richard

 

[valley]

OK! Listen to this. I put it back together. Put a heater on the auxilliary valve. Operated the Auxilliary valve, then the aux valve together with the FEL valve and she began to work well and fast. This is with the flush in the tank. I guess I'll run it a bit, drain and fill with fresh 32 hydraulic.
I'd like to hear your thoughts. I'm going out now to flex, drain and refill. Richard

 

[Diamondpilot]

What is a Aux valve? Are you talking about your rear remote valve? If heat fixed it maybe it has water in the system that froze up? Do you leave it outside?

Chris

 

[valley]

Chris, Yes! Remote valve. I would expect a milky sign of water. Worked it hard today and while hot it began to slow down and stopped. I pump the handle on the REMOTE VALVE and bega to work fine again. I don't know what the inside of the valve looks like but I think valve seat or something is loose. When I put heat on it I worked the valve. If it was the heat instead of working of the valve I would agree with what you said.
In any case I think the culprit is this valve. This valve is tied back to an always open position.
I think it has to come apart annnnd I don't what to do that just now.

 

[valley]

Thanks Guys, every suggestion was worth hearing an could have been the fix. I appreciate you taking the time to post. Should there be a different turn of events with the FEL I'll let you know. Thankyou Richad

 

[RonMar]

Actually, it sounds to me like the problem is probably the safety on the loader valve. Am I thinking about your plumbing correctly? Does yours go from the resovoir to the pump, to the loader valve to the rear 3PH control valve? If so, here is probably what is happening: The safety relief on the loader valve basically connects the input line to the output line when the pressure on the input line gets too high. When you work a control on the loader valve, you divert the input fluid to a cylinder, pressure builds and the loader moves. At the same time, the return line from the cylinder being worked, exits out thru the valve output line toward the rear valve and resovoir. If you can't build any pressure in the loader control, nothing happens. A safety valve stuck open a little bit allows some of the fluid to bypass the cylinders you are attempting to move with the loader control but still allows you to build pressure. Pressure = force, and flow = speed. so a partially stuck open safety would cause slow, and ultimately weak operation. By working the rear valve, you may be imposing some small pressure spikes in the loader valve, which have re-seated the safety valve for a time.

A mechanics stethescope might help you to positively identify this. Take a listen to the safety relief cartridge on the loader valve while you are trying to work the controls. with the loader working normally, There should be no real noise from the relief unless you run a cylinder to it's end point. When this happens, the safety will open and squeel as fluid at full system pressure is forced past the relief valve seat... If it sounds like it has flow thru it at any other time, it is stuck open.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris, Yes! Remote valve. I would expect a milky sign of water. Worked it hard today and while hot it began to slow down and stopped. I pump the handle on the REMOTE VALVE and bega to work fine again. I don't know what the inside of the valve looks like but I think valve seat or something is loose. When I put heat on it I worked the valve. If it was the heat instead of working of the valve I would agree with what you said.
In any case I think the culprit is this valve. This valve is tied back to an always open position.
I think it has to come apart annnnd I don't what to do that just now.

Why is it tied back and open? Is your FEL plumbed off of it? Man, you have a odd ball system. I think your remote valve is bad like you suspect. May be time to tear it down and find the issue.

If I understand correctly your FEL is plumbed off your remotes. Never seen that done but I guess it will work.

Chris

 

[valley]

Yes, The FEL comes off the remote. The tractor was purchased without the FEL which was added later. Oddball Yep.

 

[Sweden-Art]

Yes, The FEL comes off the remote. The tractor was purchased without the FEL which was added later. Oddball Yep.

I have read on this board that some dealers suggesting to connect the FEL to other QCs than the rear remotes.

Here is a thread, see post #16

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/129735-dongfeng-purchace-one-2.html

 

[greg_g]

Yes, The FEL comes off the remote. The tractor was purchased without the FEL which was added later. Oddball Yep.

But who's to blame for the oddball setup? Not to point any fingers, but where I've seen this configuration before is on tractors owned by folks who didn't want to pay to have the loader plumbed in properly. It's much cheaper to cheat off the remotes than it is to fabricate a proper supply and return.

Was this a conscious decision on your part to run the loader off the remotes? Or did you just get loader installed by someone who didn't explain to you the installation options? Or was it a do-it-yourself project?

//greg//