Garden tractor appropriate for snowblowing?

[Rick_CT]

For me, the garden tractor with snow blower has worked fine. I have 550 feet of paved drive, some uphill. I had a 12 HP wheel horse with plow for years, much of which was before paving the drive. It never let me down, but once I upgraded to the 22 hp wheel horse, I couldn't belive the difference the size made. First, having a hydraulic lift for the attachments makes things so much easier, especially when you have to the lift a plow over and over. As you get older, you appreciate letting the machine do the work. Second is just the sheer size and weight of a larger machine, makes moving the large snows so much easier, with less of a beating on the equipment. I plowed for years, then purchased the blower. It can throw snow at least 50 feet, and the nice part is you don't have to deal with snow banks, and where to put the snow during a heavy winter. With the hydraulic lift, I could set he blower to run above the surface if needed, such as you suggest on the gravel drive. Last year I added the cab, again, I can't belive the comfort level something so simple and basic affords. Getting out of the wind, and not getting wet is real nice. With 18 inches due tonight, it will get a work out tomorrow. I have added some pictures of the setup I am using, plus one with the mower deck on it as well. I have 3+ acre's, with over one of grass, and the machine cuts grass with no problem, and no damage to the lawn. I think that the 22hp size machine fits my needs perfectly. I do have a toro 1132 walk behind blower, 11 hp with 32 inch cut. This machine is a real chore to use. I bought it before I added the blower to the tractor just in case we got more snow than the plow could handle. I have used it a number of times, but it is so big and heavy, I'm sore for a few days after each use. I will probably sell it this winter. Good luck finding something that will do the job for you. Rick.

 

[Steve C]

For me, the garden tractor with snow blower has worked fine. I have 550 feet of paved drive, some uphill. I had a 12 HP wheel horse with plow for years, much of which was before paving the drive. It never let me down, but once I upgraded to the 22 hp wheel horse, I couldn't belive the difference the size made. First, having a hydraulic lift for the attachments makes things so much easier, especially when you have to the lift a plow over and over. As you get older, you appreciate letting the machine do the work. Second is just the sheer size and weight of a larger machine, makes moving the large snows so much easier, with less of a beating on the equipment. I plowed for years, then purchased the blower. It can throw snow at least 50 feet, and the nice part is you don't have to deal with snow banks, and where to put the snow during a heavy winter. With the hydraulic lift, I could set he blower to run above the surface if needed, such as you suggest on the gravel drive. Last year I added the cab, again, I can't belive the comfort level something so simple and basic affords. Getting out of the wind, and not getting wet is real nice. With 18 inches due tonight, it will get a work out tomorrow. I have added some pictures of the setup I am using, plus one with the mower deck on it as well. I have 3+ acre's, with over one of grass, and the machine cuts grass with no problem, and no damage to the lawn. I think that the 22hp size machine fits my needs perfectly. I do have a toro 1132 walk behind blower, 11 hp with 32 inch cut. This machine is a real chore to use. I bought it before I added the blower to the tractor just in case we got more snow than the plow could handle. I have used it a number of times, but it is so big and heavy, I'm sore for a few days after each use. I will probably sell it this winter. Good luck finding something that will do the job for you. Rick.

Very nice tractor! You are living large!

 

[jcmseven]

With regard to garden tractors, I feel the John Deere X series are tough to beat. Two or four wheel drive, hydro, hydraulic everything and diff lock. They would handle snowblowing with great ease. The Toro Xi series like that pictured is a really nice mower also. It is heavy an offers snow removal capability, but the owner will have to clarify, I do not believe has diff lock, which does really help. The Simplicity is a nice machine for this purpose also as is the Kubota Garden tractor. The take home point here is that one gets what one pays for. The better tractors are more expensive. It is true that some box store type tractors do pretty well and can hold up fine, but most weigh without deck in the 500-650 pound range which limits their ability to do heavy work or more snow well without substantial ballast and/or chains. This in turn places more strain on the drivetrain, which is generally lighter duty to begin with and well---you see where this goes. If looking at John Deere, be aware, the X 700 series used to be called the X 500 series and the X 500 series now is an evolution of the 300 series from the previous generation. I would also say the X 500 series machines with diff lock and stout powerplants would make short work of most snowfalls. It might be a slightly more cost-effective way to get into a long term tractor that would do the tasks you wish and offer good resale at some point if you wish and good general dealer support.

Before ending this ramble, I should note I like the Gravely idea the best, if one could easily find parts for them not on EBAY or the internet. In 1983, my dad and I bought an 8193KT Gravely with a 50" mower and 48" snowblade. The tractor has been stored inside for its entire life (except when we were using it) and now has over 3000 hours on it (original NOT OVERHAULED motor). It smokes a bit and is slightly down on power but my dad still uses it for snowfalls if he has one, and occasionally mows with it (though it is not his primary machine). We have owned three of these machines in my lifetime, and I personally have put 2000-3000 hours seat time on them combined and there is no current machine in the lawn and garden line, made by any manufacturer that is as tough as those machines were.

John M

 

[Rick_CT]

Attached is a picture of my garden tractor (Toro/Wheel Horse 522XI) throwing 8 inches of snow that we got in Connecticut today. I think most of the heavy duty garden tractors should do the job for you. There are often great deals to be had on used equipment, just have to keep your eye out. Many of the older models were built so heavy that its near impossible to break them, and the steel was so heavy that a little surface rust means nothing. The snow blower for my tractor list for over $2200, I bought it used for $450 and 6 hours of driving. Gave it a major overhaul, stripped the paint and re-painted, good as new. The plow list for $700, I found it for $250, same deal, strip and paint. This way you don't have to layout for all the toys at one time, keep your eye out and buy when you can. I got a new power flow bagger for the mower deck off ebay. Dealer had new old stock, shipped to me in the factory box, I paid half price. It's the old time is money, and if you are not pressed for time, you can save a bunch of money on used tractors and attachments.

Rick

 

[ChuckinNH]

Timber has a thread in the "owning operating" forum with a video of him blowing snow with his Cub Cadet

 

[Sabretooth]

We had a 1975 16 HP Sears tractor that mowed and blew snow for quite a few years. It worked well in my opinion.

I second that try to find a old Sears Suburban 12-16hp My dad had one from 1967 a SS12 with all those attachments even a 3point hitch for a Rearblade and so on this tractor was a work horse in the late 80's cost $800 to replace the old engine I even made a some linkage in shop for the clutch. He plowed,cultivated,mowed(3/5gang setup) around 10ac and and snow blowed and plowed our entire street upstate Newyork. I was given the tractor and worked it landscaping and mowing lawns through school I used it when I brought a house in the 90's back there. Sorry to say I gave it back to my father in late 90's when I moved out of state I still think of that tractor and what it could do compared to the ones they build now I know I have a Husqvarna 24hp Kawi that pales in comparison to that

 

[liftaddict]

My two cents worth. I have had a 300 ft gravel flat drive and used a gravely 16.5 onan and a plow and a blower for about 18 years. The plow was faster until i was late to start ( the freezing rain got to the snow before me ), and then there was the pile left by the snow plow. The blower ( 44 in) with the skids lifting up the blower leaving about an inch of frozen snow over the gravel worked great. If you keep the clutches in the blower's augers loose enough to spin when you wedge in a piece of gravel you will not break the brass gear in the gear box. Now I have a two wheel on a paved 350 ft drive. It is fast enough ( i can clear a path on the drive in 10 minutes). Either one could be set an inch or two above your gravel until it freezes. The blower will give you a lot more flexibility but is more complicated and expensive to fix if you eat something. As long as you get freeze and thaw cycles the plow may be ok in Ma. but you will have to widen the banks from time to time. Widening banks is easy with a two wheel tractor with steering brake and hard with a 4 wheel tractor.

 

[Timber]

Sorry just saw this thread. Here is the clip of my lawn tractor with the snowblower. it is 2 wheel drive, it needs chains and a counter wt. I have had it 5 years this winter. The shoes are adjustable on both sides and you could even modify them further. Gravel is hard on the drum over time but is will work fine. This year I see a lot of threads cutting plastic pipe to cover the cutting edge for gravel drives. Looks like a good idea to me. My drive is almost 400 feet. My lawn tractor is a Cub Cadet 1050 basic lawn tractor from Lowes, in fact every thing you see in the video came from Lowes.

YouTube - snow blower 2 002.MPG

 

[wh22366]

Although I have larger equipment to move snow, I use a 25 year old Gravely 18h Pro with 48" blower, chains and counterweight to do my 200' of gravel drive. The machine has an 18 HP Kohler twin and a tough hydro with hydraulic lift and steering. I keep the skids all the way down all winter, even after the gravel freezes. I don't have a traction issue with 2WD, but occasionally have issues with steering when the ground is iced over. I've though about adding chains to the front tires for improved steering control. I've also thought about repowering the unit with a 25 HP V-twin for more oomph when the snow is heavy and 18 horses have a tough time with moving the rig and blowing at the same time.

 

[ngzcaz]

Plowing with a lower priced, (think $3000) two wheel drive GT will require you to push at 4" increments during a snow storm. You will need chains, more than likely, to assist with 2 wheel traction. Lots of folks have done it this way for years and years. A plow is also just something to consider. A blower is an expensive option. A inexpensive plow can be equipped with a simple plastic pipe edge that almost eliminates moving any gravel around. You just have to have room to push snow, whereas a blower will throw it up high if you don't have that space.
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Had to chuckle a bit when I read that. Tell that to my D-180 Wheel Horse here in NE Pa. after the 16 inch snowfall we had a week or so ago. I waited until the next day before I got the Horse out and plowed. Had to angle the blade but it kept going until I hit the highway ( about 120 ft ) The rest of my circle had me going in a V pattern every now and then but you are seriously underestimating a decent GT w/ Chains, weight and a decent plow. To be fair I should have made a pass when it was around 8 inches or so. It definately had the Horse puffing. You are correct when you state you have to have the room to keep pushing the snow so you dont have less room every time you take it out. I push mine 50 feet in the woods the first decent snow.
I do like the plastic pipe idea instead of tearing it up with the blade. The skid plates ( mine are like half mushrooms only solid steel with a 3/4 inch bolt that turns to adjust the height ) I might not have to raise the skid plates at all if the pipe works. Thanks for the idea..