At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods #281  
Dave, I've been wondering about how to deal with the nails and screws. Great idea. Where do you get one of those wide magnet bars? I've never heard of them.

Obed

I know Northern Tool sells them. Don't own one, so others may give you better advice. I gathered mine the old fashioned way. I don't know if the magnet bar will suck them out that red clay :D
Dave.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #283  
Obed,
As to your partly buried red oak, I think if you pull back the dirt and stone next Spring it will be fine. Root compaction due to driving over them is harder on the tree than a temporary pile over the roots. It takes a couple years for root compaction damage to become evident as some die-off in the crown.
Dave.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#284  
I suspect it won't work very well at all in mud, haven't tried it there.
You're probably right. I guess I'll have to pick up the nails the old fashioned way.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#285  
Obed,
As to your partly buried red oak, I think if you pull back the dirt and stone next Spring it will be fine.
I hope you are right. I have several trees with the roots covered right now and am not sure when I will be able to uncover them.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #286  
You can get the magnets at Lowes or any place that sells roofing.They work pretty well but they won't pick up nails that are embedded in the ground.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#287  
The interior load bearing walls went up Friday. The long portion of the wall will actually have 2 doorways in it. The framer didn't put in the doorways yet because he wanted my wife to confirm the location of them. He said they would be easy to add later.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods #288  
That's good that the framer used treated lumber where it is contact with concrete. Wood will always absorb moisture from concrete when they are in contact. Did he put in sill sealer too?
Dave.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#289  
That's good that the framer used treated lumber where it is contact with concrete. Wood will always absorb moisture from concrete when they are in contact. Did he put in sill sealer too?
Dave.
I'm not sure if sill sealer was used. The hardware (nails, screws, hangers, etc.) that touches the pressure treated wood is hot-dipped galvanized per the code. Apparently unless you make them, builders around here frequently skip using special hardware made for pressure treated wood even though the code requires it.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #290  
Obed,

What are you finishing the floors with? Some of those puddles look pretty big. While the water is sitting there, put a tape measure in them and see how deep they are. If it's just an eigth of an inch, then that's fine. If it's more, then depending on what you are doing for a floor, you'll need to make them level.

Tile and carpet don't care, but wood really likes a flat surface. Vinyl is hit or miss, depending on the hole and brand of vinyl. Some are stiffer then others, while others will form to just about anything.

Getting your concrete guy to fix it is cheap right now, because it's his mess up. Having the flooring guy do it down the road is expensive, because it's more work on his part that he'll have to charge you for.

Eddie
 

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