Mowing Which finish mower implement for JD 3120??

[poe400]

I have a 2006 JD 3120 Ehydro 4x4 with FEL and 447. I need something to cut the grass with because my zero turn Cub Cadet is getting old...Which implement would be best to attach to this tractor to cut my yard ( pretty straight with few trees) and the grass around the pond which is about 5 acres of pretty nice centipede..... I know they make pull behind finish mowers and they make belly mowers.....i want what would be best for my situation even if it is a little more money.....Please advise......Thanks!

 

[B8FISH]

I think you'll find pros and cons to each choice. If you go mid-mount (MMM) you won't have to take the 447 off--but you will be pretty heavy for a "lawnmower". If you go rear/3point mount you will need to remove the hoe--and attach the 3 point arms (you did get them with the package, right--nice deal BTW!!) but you will be lighter and able to mow faster. You can also remove the entire loader--or just the bucket if you want better visibility. I'd start looking at local Craigslist etc for rear mowers--60" minimum, 72" would be best I think.

 

[lwalsh]

I wish I had the rear finish mower instead of the belly mower. It seems like I put the mower on/off every time I mow. Always something I want to do in between mowings with the loader and I dont want to risk damaging the mower. I hear rear discharge is better to avoid winrows.

 

[poe400]

I think you'll find pros and cons to each choice. If you go mid-mount (MMM) you won't have to take the 447 off--but you will be pretty heavy for a "lawnmower". If you go rear/3point mount you will need to remove the hoe--and attach the 3 point arms (you did get them with the package, right--nice deal BTW!!) but you will be lighter and able to mow faster. You can also remove the entire loader--or just the bucket if you want better visibility. I'd start looking at local Craigslist etc for rear mowers--60" minimum, 72" would be best I think.

The 447 is off now and just sitting till I need it......I dont see a lot of use for that around my house but seeing how the unit is already set up for it and goes off and on in 5 min...i dont see any reason to sell it....i may just need it. So , most of the time (90%) the 447 will not be attached anyway....now, with this addressed, Do you feel belly or finish would be best? Im thinking a rear finish mower would be easier but that belly mower you drive over seems pretty nice too....I would appreciate if anyone has any approximate costs of the belly and the rear finish mower too.....Do i have what I need on my tractor to make a belly mower work? I dont know if it has a mid PTO or not....

 

[B8FISH]

I'm not sure if the PTO selector comes standard with the three choices (see below)--but if you climb underneath and see a small splined stub near the center of the tractor (smaller than the rear PTO) then you've got the optional mid-PTO. I would think that a decent rear mower would be a better long term choice. It should give a good quality cut, is easier to take off and put on as needed, and has a wider range of resale options, and is usually less expensive. I think that the longer you have and use the tractor the more uses you will find for it--hence the logic behind easy removal etc. Also--the MMM are pretty specific to model and brand and therefor not as easy to find used or sell as a used one.

 

[ChrisB]

Hey Poe,
I have seen both in action up close and personal, but on a 2520. My Brother-in-law has a 62D, I have a Bushhog FTH72. He has had alot of issues with his mower. I have had nothing but good things. He even tries to steal (really borrow, but he is my B-I-L)mine all the time. I would choose the 3ph mower everytime now. I got my Bushhog new from Lakeland Tractor in Avon, NY for $1700 because it had been sitting around for awhile. I think normally it was about $2400. I do not know what the 7-iron 72" would go for. Maybe some other poster can provide that price.

 

[poe400]

I will be looking for a 60 to 72" rear discharge finish mower and am not going to pursue the belly mower option.......Thanks Guys!

 

[orlo]

I had a 3320 with the 72" 7 Iron MMM. Moved the mower to a 3720 cab and it was a pain so I went with an 84" RFM. (I'm now upgrading to a 4720 cab but that's another issue ).

MMM pros:
Great cut quality.
good maneuverability 'around' things
Could leave rear implement on.
You can use it with a material collection system like a cyclone rake or something.
Easy to access/maintain but only when off the tractor.

MMM cons:
A pain to take on/off, especially with wheel extenders.
You don't want to do much serious 'tractor stuff' with your $3000 deck on the tractor
it can get banged up easily. You will have s#$t for ground clearance.
Compared to a RFM, the wheel stance is narrower and will 'rock' more as it floats on the
tractor.
On the 3000 series you have to lose your height adjustment to take the deck on/off.
Also, it's very sensitive to leveling - I found I needed to level it each time I mounted
it.
You aren't going to mow 'under' branches unless you can fold your ROPS real low. If you have
a cab you are SOL.

RFM Pros:
You can mow under branches by backing in.
Easy on/Easy off - No problem doing tractor chores.
Good cut quality (Mine is almost 18K feet per minute tip speed, faster than my MMM)
Easy maintenance
Pro/con - Wider wheel stance = more stable, less rocking but also more prone to
scalping. On the other end, the front/rear wheelbase is shorter so that's less prone
to scalping than a MMM.

RFM Cons:
If you have a lot of obstacles requiring frequent short turns you'll be unhappy.
if you get a rear discharge you cannot blow the clippings and re-cut. However
the mulch kits work pretty well (I have one on my 84" RFM and one on my 62C on
my 2305). You can also get a side discharge RFM but they usually don't go larger than
72"
Doesn't hide under the tractor so you'll need space to store it.
Don't turn sharp when up against your car or anything else...

 

[WH401]

Why do you have a zero turn now? is it because you have a lot obstacles to mow around? if so than I would lean more to the MMM, (even though I personally like the RFM better), because it will be much easier to maneuver.

 

[poe400]

Why do you have a zero turn now? is it because you have a lot obstacles to mow around? if so than I would lean more to the MMM, (even though I personally like the RFM better), because it will be much easier to maneuver.

I have the zero turn Cub Cadet because I bought it new for $1300.00 and could not turn it down. I have a lot of straight runs with just a few trees but I do have to trim right up close to the pond if that presents a problem Im thinking that a 60 inch rear discharge with a mulch kit will be my best choice....Now, which brand to get??

 

[DK35vince]

Im thinking that a 60 inch rear discharge with a mulch kit will be my best choice....Now, which brand to get??

I recommend a 72" mower.
Your tractor can easily handle a 72" RFM. It would be slightly wider than your tractor making trimming easier.

 

[YesDeere]

I have a Frontier 1072 rear discharge and it is a great piece of equipment. My Dad bought it at a sale practically new, not many hours. Had the hog mentality that it would leave clumps everywhere. Not the case at all, love it. And the 790 pulls it like a dream. Thought about a mid mount but it would cost to much. Might as well invest in a newer zero turn. Only downside is the old 790 is rough and keeps knocking the ice cubes out of my glass!!!

 

[WH401]

I have the zero turn Cub Cadet because I bought it new for $1300.00 and could not turn it down. I have a lot of straight runs with just a few trees but I do have to trim right up close to the pond if that presents a problem Im thinking that a 60 inch rear discharge with a mulch kit will be my best choice....Now, which brand to get??

Ah I see, well that makes sense then.. If you've got mostly straight runs than you'll be fine with an RFM. Of the 7 acres of my total 11 that I cut, it's all mostly open field. Except for some very slight trimming, which I do quickly with a push mower and trimmer.

How is the surface of your land? is it flat? or does it have a lot of dips? A 60" mower is a good "compromise" size, (particular if your land has a lot of dips and bumps), because it gives you a wide swath for a cut, while still being able to articulate fairly well over dips and deviations to give you an even cut. If you have pretty flat land with no real uneven-ness, than I would look into a 72" mower, you should be able to power one without a problem. I have mostly level, flat ground, and the 72' Woods mower I have leaves a very nice, even cut.

I wouldn't worry about getting the mulch kit. The problem with mulch kit's are that for them to work effectively you can only take so much height off of the grass during a cut, (and by that I mean a minimum amount), and you'll have to drive slower. The mower on it's own should mulch the clippings up pretty well without a problem, unless you really let the grass get out of hand.

As far as brands, I like Woods. I've personal had many very good years of experience with them, and because of that they're my "go to" brand. The PRD7200 RFM I've got is a heavily built mower (about 700 lbs total) that can take a lot of abuse, it creates an incredible amount of suction with high lift blades, and it leaves a fantastic cut. But, the con about Woods products is they tend to cost higher than other manufacturers. If your on a tighter budget I would look at a Landpride or Bushhog brand RFM. I know lots of people on here have had great experience with them.

 

[careyo63]

Just happen to have this pick out.I bought this Frontier 1060R On craigs list a few years back for 550.00 and it has been great no problems what so ever.Not sure of yours but I'm just 24Hp or 20pto and pretty much open cutting also.

Carey

 

[Barely Smokin']

I've been pretty pleased with my Frontier 3PH mower. No problems with gear box or other major bits. I mow about 2 acres with it, mostly field next to a river.

It's a little beat up, primarily because I occassionally use it like a bush hog...backing it into "unknown" areas and grinding into a stump, etc.

I have to remove the blades ~ every 4 mows and sharpen them. You probably want to invest in a decent 3/4" socket set and large open end wrenches (if you haven't already). That'll make changing blades a lot easier.

My local JD dealer had to order the blades. It was a total fiasco, but that's mainly because my local JD dealer is incompetent. That said, it was hard to find replacement blades for the Frontier and they were pricey....

'nother thing....the four height adjustment wheels are "secured" to the mower with a simple clevis pin set-up through a vertical post. I've had two of those pins shear off...which means the wheel and the spacers used to adjust the height of the mower fall off while you're mowing. Of course, you wouldn't notice it right away, so it can be a real PITA to find the wheel and the little spacers somewhere out in the big field you're mowing when you notice they're gone. Now, I realize it's a pin failure only but still, Frontier chooses to use them as a stock piece and integrates them into a design that---when it fails---sucks. I've since upgraded to grade 5 bolts, no problems.

Lastly, check the blade RPMs or what they call "tip speed" or something like that. I'm no expert, but the idea is---the faster the tip speed (a function of PTO gearing, mower gearing and blade length), the better it cuts grass, assuming you have the HP to spin the mower. Again, just a FYI, and you may want to search the attachments forum for more detail. I've often thought the Frontier could do a better job mowing, and mebbe the tip speed has something to do with it. Good luck!

 

[careyo63]

Yeah I do Have problem how could I forget thinking about it now. And have to agree with you on the blades and a local JD dealer also. I cut over 5 acres so I decided to buy a backup set to keep sharp. I just back in and lift it up,throw the stands under it and hit with the impact wrench done 10 min. tops. I went to change at leaf season and the new ones. They are worn slap out PMO talking about cheap wait, no they wasn't price wise either. They are not worth the garbage can in 1yr.!! I still have the original ones that came on it and it's a 02 model and are still in good shape. I think I may have found another Dist. who I get my tractor parts from and is starting to sell implements and blades. I'm sure I will give thiers a try can't get much worse. Sorry about the vent.

Carey

 

[orlo]

Frontier has many of their units made by Woods. Woods makes a nice machine (as does Frontier. I run an 84" Frontier RFM made by woods. In fact I couldn't order my mulch kit through Deere, I had to order it from Woods (Weird).

I'd get the pneumatic tires and look for a high blade tip speed (above 16K is nice, mine is 17,900. It's probably 'acceptable' down to about 15K. Some of the larger ones have flail type blades (90"+) which let you cut rough stuff but won't give you as good a cut quality.


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