284 clutch safety switch problem

[meporsche]

Thanks to this forum, I was able to immediately diagnose my no-start problem today. Even though my tractor has less than 33 hours and has probably only been started 25-30 times, the **** thing was shot.

The question is, does anyone bother replacing them or just connect the loop and forget about it? (Making sure the tractor is always in neutral)

Anything that's that cheap will probably just go south again in short order, IMO.

Sure seems like the entire electrical/wiring system in these Jinmas really sucks. Not to mention that it came with a hydraulic fill 3-1/2 gal short, a starter that wouldn't start without a heater on it, no grease in the fittings and no glow plugs. Other than that, it's fine.

Darwin

 

[Red55]

Darwin-
I would replace it pronto! We all do stupid things and that's why the safety switch is there. To help keep us from running ourselves over ! Reason why it broke usually has more to do with the adjustment being out then with a crappy sw. The pedal was bottoming out the switch until it broke. With the new switch adjust it to the pedal while it is resting on the stop. Mine's still working at 176hrs and only cause someone else pointed out that they are all out of adjustment from the factory. -Ed

 

[Diamondpilot]

Do you keep the tractor outside? If so water probally got into it and the cold temps did it in.

Where did you get your tractor from? Sounds like they did a bad job of prepping it. We here reports of this all the time. My tractor has been basically trouble free in over 700 hours.

Chris

 

[meporsche]

I got it from Josef Tractor in TX. I wouldn't buy a postage stamp from them at this point. I've been waiting for two months for reimbursement on the shorted battery they shipped it with. You'll hear more about them from me later when I get through with the TX Atty Gen office.

For now, I would strongly encourage anyone to stay away or at least talk to someone who has purchased from them.

As for the switch, I do keep the tractor outside and it is VERY cold her in N PA right now. It kinda went away slowly, at first I had to hit the key twice, then a couple of times, then today, nothing. At least I knew something was up so I didn't freak today. Even though it was -1 and the cattle needed round bales......

I like the switch on my 72 Massey better, it has to be in neutral in the Hi-Low to start.

Is the problem that the clutch pedal is pushing the switch too far? This info woyuld be helpful in setting up a new one.

Thanks,
DArwin

 

[greg_g]

Is the problem that the clutch pedal is pushing the switch too far?

I'd say that's the root cause most of the time. If it's positioned incorrectly in its bracket, the brake pedal arm can crush it. Even if that doesn't destroy it on the spot, the damage then renders the internals more vulnerable to moisture damage.

Pay heed to the parts manual, the brake light switch and clutch interlock switch may not have the same part number. One might be "depress to close" the other might be "release to close". In either case, position (and lock) the neck in the bracket so that pedal movement will depress (or release) the button - but does not touch the threaded portion.

//greg//

 

[studor]

If you reinstall it, make sure there is clearance between the bell housing and the back of the switch -- otherwise when you tighten it in position you will put pressure on the body of the switch and break the plastic internals. Every time this topic comes up someone always says it is because the switch adjustment is such that it is being hammered by the clutch pedal. You can hammer on the front of those switches until the front is peened back and they still work (I tried it in a vice with a hammer!). Any sideways pressure on the body however and the switch innards crumble. JMHO

 

[SPIKER]

I saw put baqck in a new one and make sure it is adjusted correctly. Since you are in PA and the dealer is in TX, did you buy a crate tractor from them and assemble it yourself or was it s fully drive it off the trailer rig? If the tractor had fluid in it and the battery installed then the drive from TX to PA may have shortened its life. My 2002 china tractor still has same safety switch, same china battery. I did the research and the assembly myself and adjusted the switch, the clutch and changed all the fluids for myself so I knew what was there. Glow Plugs is a different story, most have them to begin with but NEW ones I have heard are coming without them...

Mark

 

[Affordable]

We have the OEM replacement switchs if you are interested in buying one from us,I recommend replacing it for saftey reasons, there is a clutch pedal stop bolt and adjustment on the switch that if set correctly will stop the breaking of the switch.Most of the time they are out of adjustment from the start

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[RonMar]

You might also find a momentary pushbutton at an electrical supply house, or out of a local wrecking yard. Most all 85-95 toyota trucks and 4Runners with manual transmissions have a clutch safety switch that closes when the pedal is fully depressed. I start my truck at least twice a day and have never worn one of those out...

 

[meporsche]

" Since you are in PA and the dealer is in TX, did you buy a crate tractor from them and assemble it yourself or was it s fully drive it off the trailer rig? If the tractor had fluid in it and the battery installed then the drive from TX to PA may have shortened its life."

It was fully assembled. Not sure how riding on a lowboy would ruin a battery. More than likely it sat for a year or so without a charge before the tractor was sold to me. As for switch, it seemed to be adjusted fine, no contact from the clutch pedal on the housing and nothing interfering from the back. It should be replaced under warranty but I am having a great deal of difficulty with Josef Tractor. Did I mention to stay away from them????

DArwin