Trailer Brake Controller Help.

[jlrsn]

Also, trailer has some sort of kill switch/cable. What is that?

George,
The Break Away Cable should be attached to your Truck's Trailer Hitch and if the trailer should break free of the truck the Break Away Cable will pull the pin activating the Trailer's Brakes if the small battery is charged. Normally the battery is charged by your truck but if the trailer has not been used in a while it might be dead. This Break Away System is required in most states and according to some Highway Patrol Friends they look to see if the Break Away Cable is attached when they pass you on the highway. Do not pull the Break Away Cable pin to test the system while the controller is attached as it can damage the controller.
Good luck,
Jim

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Don't recall seeing a battery on the trailer but I did not look for one either. I will do that and make sure it is charged before we tow.

Learning a lot here.

 

[jlrsn]

Leave a little slack in the break-away cable so if you are maneuvering the trailer to almost jack-knifed backing in a tight spot it won't activate the trailer brakes or possibly damage your controller.

Back in the 90's I was asked to tow a friend's loaded 3 horse trailer about 300 miles to a breeding farm and the battery was missing. I bought a new battery for less than $30. A complete new break-away kit was about $50 with a battery charger.

Don't forget to cross the Trailer Hitch Safety Chains. This gives the Trailer Tongue someplace to ride if the trailer partially brakes free. I've had it happen many years ago pulling a friends loaded tilt trailer at night in the rain just as I entered a congested highway! It was a cheap commonly used hitch that held on for five miles before releasing even though locked. The Safety Chains saved the day!!
Good luck,
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks guys. Don't recall seeing a battery on the trailer but I did not look for one either. I will do that and make sure it is charged before we tow.

Learning a lot here.

that bat is a lil rechargeable job, and usually sets in a lil box along with a charge controller and may be about the size of a grapefruit squared off.. not a big thing by any means..

soudnguy

 

[N80]

Here is an update of what I did:

1) Got the Tekonsha Prodigy controller along with the wiring harness for my truck. The total on that was $113. Probably more than I had to spend, but it was an easy install and it seems like a good product. Even comes with a DVD for basic installation instructions. Bought it from eTrailer.com. Those folks are on their toes. Great website. Cheap and super fast shipping.

2) For the rear end of the truck I bit the bullet and bought the OEM Ford 7 pin round wiring harness. It was ridiculously expensive at $105. However, I think it was worth every penny. First, you just remove the 4 pin flat connector harness that came with the truck and plug the new harness in. Second, the OEM 4 flat has a pigtail that splits off past the plug and goes to the taillights which would have required me to do a bit of additional wiring. The new 7 pin harness includes this pigtail so it was plug and play for real. The new OEM harness had all the little plastic pins that hold it to the frame, etc. for a perfect OEM looking install. Third, it came with the bracket that holds the plug. It bolts right to the bumper. Fourth, the plug unit has the 7 pin and a four pin connector so I will not need any adapters for the trailers I'll be using.

I already had the relay do-dads that go in the breaker box in the engine compartment.

I have not hooked up or tested with a trailer yet. Will do that this week sometime. Got a horse show on Saturday.

I probably could have spent half as much money and done just as well, but this set up was plug and play at its best and that eliminates the weakest link from the process...me. It was also quick and saved me a lot of time.

Thanks for the excellent info and advice. I always get what I need here at TBN.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Glad you got it all hooked up. You did right by getting the plug and play stuff. Any connection under the rear bumper area will cause issues sooner or later. It may be 10 years down the road but it will. Plus like you said your time is worth something so yes, you could have done it for $50 but would have taken 2 hours to do it properly versus 10 minutes.

I would test everything asap so there are no surprises the day you need to use the trailer.

Chris

 

[N80]

I'm going to test it with my little 4x8 trailer, then hook it to the horse trailer empty and make sure everything works then load the horse and set the brake controller.

 

[QRTRHRS]

You want a nice towing experience try driving a Late Model Ford with the Integrated Trailer Brake System. I have used over 25 different brake controllers including everything from Reese and Prodigy and none hold a candle.

These controllers use fluid pressure to activate the controller. The only aftermarket one that comes close is the MaxBrake - Hydraulic over Electric Variable Brake Controller

I saw a test done with a dually F-350 and a big 5th wheel camper using all the other popular ones on the market and the Max Brake stopped the load in something like 20% less distance or a good 20-30'.

Chris

The MaxBrake looks to be the best out there now that in spite of rave revues, the BrakeSmart is no more.

Still, I could not see the cost so I went with a Tekonsha P3 for my Freightshaker. Pretty "intelligent" unit and easy to set up and adjust. Picked it up for about 130 with shipping. I had some questions which Tekonsha was quick to reply to. Though my trailer has electric brakes, it is a possibility that I may have one with hydraulic/electric in the future which the P3 will work with with just the touch of a button. Way cool!

 

[Reg]

The MaxBrake looks to be the best out there now that in spite of rave revues, the BrakeSmart is no more.

Still, I could not see the cost so I went with a Tekonsha P3 for my Freightshaker. Pretty "intelligent" unit and easy to set up and adjust. Picked it up for about 130 with shipping. I had some questions which Tekonsha was quick to reply to. Though my trailer has electric brakes, it is a possibility that I may have one with hydraulic/electric in the future which the P3 will work with with just the touch of a button. Way cool!

Trouble with the BrakeSmart seems to be it's availability - lack thereof.
I had tried for a few years to buy one, they were always on the edge of contracting a new builder/supplier.
Then they re-appeared, but only through some obscure speed shop.

If they REALLY spout religious quotations then I am completely turned off the idea, regardless of what religion it represents, whether or not that coincides with mine, etc.
I really LIKE the idea of braking force being some function of hydraulic pressure, but it DOES tie your trailer to that one vehicle.

 

[MikePA]

If they REALLY spout religious quotations then I am completely turned off the idea, regardless of what religion it represents, whether or not that coincides with mine, etc.

What's this have to do with brake controllers?