Trailer Brake Controller Help.

[jlrsn]

On my F250 PSD I’m using a Tekonsha Prodigy Electronic Brake Control with a Tekonsha Prodigy M/N 3035 Ford Brake Control Wiring Harness. I’ve wired many vehicles for trailer brakes over the years but with the newer trucks it is basically plug and play with wiring harnesses ready to go.

From my experiences I would not want a surge brake or a timed controller for my type of interstate highways and mountain roads towing. I've used many brake controllers over the last 50+ years of pulling trailers and my setup now I find to be perfect for me no matter if I have 5,000 lbs in tow or 12,000 lbs or more.

I want complete control so that with heavy loads my trailer’s four brakes take care of trailer braking fully activated by my brake pedal through the controller. Even though I haven't experienced an out of control swaying trailer in over 20 years I want the option to reach down and activate the trailer brakes alone without my truck brakes.

I've pulled my fully loaded 12,000 lb flatbed cargo trailer over 45,000 miles in the last 3 years crossing the Sierras and Rockies on each trip from my home in CA to my home up at 8,000' in the Rockies plus I have made that same trip with my 26' Wide-Body Weekend Warrior Toy Hauler with a GVWR of 11,100 lbs and also with my fully enclosed Wells Cargo Trailer.

Trailer Brake Controllers have been a hot topic over the years at the RV.Net Forum
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing

Good luck,
Jim

 

[Diamondpilot]

You want a nice towing experience try driving a Late Model Ford with the Integrated Trailer Brake System. I have used over 25 different brake controllers including everything from Reese and Prodigy and none hold a candle.

These controllers use fluid pressure to activate the controller. The only aftermarket one that comes close is the MaxBrake™ - Hydraulic over Electric Variable Brake Controller

I saw a test done with a dually F-350 and a big 5th wheel camper using all the other popular ones on the market and the Max Brake stopped the load in something like 20% less distance or a good 20-30'.

Chris

 

[jlrsn]

You want a nice towing experience try driving a Late Model Ford with the Integrated Trailer Brake System. [/url]
Chris

Hi Chris,
I’ve driven a new Ford F250 Diesel with the Integrated Trailer Brake System on a demo ride while pulling my Flat Bed Cargo Trailer loaded with my Bridgeport Vertical Mills, Metal Lathes, and as much of my shop equipment I could load onto my trailer This was just before I left on one of my trips when I finally moved my machine shop to my place in the Rockies.

I’ve tried pretty much everything ever sold or jury rigged since I started driving on the farm as a kid in the late 40s but I want the possibility of separate control of the trailer brakes only in case of high speed swaying or anything else that required me to control the trailer separately or even to use the trailer brakes to stop my truck if I lost my power brakes. It's been many years since I’ve had wild rides caused by improper trailer loading or tire blow-outs but those wild rides still stick in my mind!

The Integrated Trailer Brake System was impressive but for now I have what I need.

Thanks for your input,
Jim

 

[MESSMAKER]

A lot of the guys here have more experience with the subject than me, but don't think that a cheaper system is unsafe. I think a trailer in good shape wired up correctly even with a low priced controller that is adjusted will be more than adequate. There are those out there that believe that anything less than the very best available is an accident waiting to happen. A lot of it lies with the driver being cautious.

 

[Steve C]

A lot of the guys here have more experience with the subject than me, but don't think that a cheaper system is unsafe. I think a trailer in good shape wired up correctly even with a low priced controller that is adjusted will be more than adequate. There are those out there that believe that anything less than the very best available is an accident waiting to happen. A lot of it lies with the driver being cautious.

and taking the 15 seconds to adjust the controller to the individual trailer after you connect. The efectiveness of the trailer brakes vary a great deal.

Taking the time for a few test stops to get the controller dialed in is not much work. I once owned a small 26 foot fifth wheel travel trailer that was built with very large axels and brakes. It would easily lock all 4 wheels if the controller wasn't dialed in. The oversized brakes made it great for towing my boat behind it in tandem.

 

[Soundguy]

A lot of the guys here have more experience with the subject than me, but don't think that a cheaper system is unsafe. I think a trailer in good shape wired up correctly even with a low priced controller that is adjusted will be more than adequate. There are those out there that believe that anything less than the very best available is an accident waiting to happen. A lot of it lies with the driver being cautious.

Ditto that 100%... my cheap controller controls my trailer breaks 98% as good as one nearly 3x it's price.

a good traielr with serviceale brakes and wireing is the first step.. plugging in and making some test stops as you pull out of your place is the 2nd step.


If lower end controllers were 100% useless.. they wouldn't be sold.. some people are blindly stuck on a brand name.. or a price expectation.. it's not always the case though..

soundguy

 

[Newblue]

The one I have in my 3500 is a Brakesmart (pretty much the same thing as Maxbrake) It uses a transducer on the brake line to activate the brakes in proportion to the hydraulic pressure. It shows brake line pressure and voltage and some other things like it will spit out Bible quotes when the brakes aren't being used. That feature is turned off on mine.

Mike

Link

 

[N80]

I'm probably going to go with the Prodigy. Its not the cheapest or the most expensive but should be just right for my needs. This trailer weighs about 2500 pounds. The horses we'll pull are no more than 1000 each. Will usually just be one but with two we're at 4500 pounds. Add a few hundred more for hay, water, tack, etc. Trailer is in good shape. Will pull no more than once a month. Terrain is anything from gentle hills to low mountain.

Will make some test runs with the trailer but not sure about how to do that with horses on board. When I test it, do I need to do hard braking?

Also, trailer has some sort of kill switch/cable. What is that?

 

[Duffster]

Also, trailer has some sort of kill switch/cable. What is that?

Break away switch?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Will make some test runs with the trailer but not sure about how to do that with horses on board. When I test it, do I need to do hard braking?

Also, trailer has some sort of kill switch/cable. What is that?

For testing the brakes just get going about 15mph. Put on the trailer brakes by moving the test button on the controller to activate them. You should feel them pull down the truck. If they lock up use the adjustment to remove some power.

The "kill switch" is called a Brake-Away. Hook it to the hitch independent of the ball or chains. It should have its own clip. The law states that if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle it should apply brakes and hold it for no less than 15 minutes. All it is really is a second path for electricity to the brakes. When pulled it removes a plunger which allows 2 spring loaded contacts to complete the circuit applying voltage from the trailers on-board battery to the brakes. This is assuming the battery is charged and all wiring is proper.

One of the relays you will be installing with your Ford Kit you mentioned you had controls voltage to the pin at the 1 o-clock (12v)pin and to the 7 o-clock (ground)pin in the 7 way plug. I am pretty sure on your age truck this should only supply power with the truck is on and running. Some supply it all the time and some only apply if the key is on so check all the possibilities.

Chris