Firewood Gathering With A Power Trac

[BobRip]

After seeing what Bob did, it gave me an idea for the stand alone wood rack pictured below. I have included the drawing as well. I felt I handled the firewood too many times. Now I can load the rack were the wood is stacked outside and move it directly into the garage with the forks, eliminating an extra handling. I paid for all the materials on this 1st rack - $15, but have enough 2x4s round to make 3 more racks and only have to spend another $15 on rebar. Thanks for the inspiration Bob!

Nice!

 

[Gravy]

Wow, blowing hot air into your home made cab - i am impressed!!!

Ken

Indeed! And it has that "Power-Trac" origami look! (Well, maybe except for the cardboard and bungees)

 

[SpringHollow]

Indeed! And it has that "Power-Trac" origami look! (Well, maybe except for the cardboard and bungees)

Now that REALLY cracks me up!!!


DC - how do you like the enclosed cab. Looks impressive, even has a wiper. I have had two tractors with just front glass and removed it on both because of the glare at times. Do you have that problem?

Ken

 

[MossRoad]

After seeing what Bob did, it gave me an idea for the stand alone wood rack pictured below. I have included the drawing as well. I felt I handled the firewood too many times. Now I can load the rack were the wood is stacked outside and move it directly into the garage with the forks, eliminating an extra handling. I paid for all the materials on this 1st rack - $15, but have enough 2x4s round to make 3 more racks and only have to spend another $15 on rebar. Thanks for the inspiration Bob!

The rack and the cab are both very nice!

 

[DCWhitley]

Thanks for all the compliments, but all the inspiration came from you guys. The cab is still a work in progress, using what I learned here and from previously owning a CAT skidsteer. I use the snowblower attachment quite a bit, so a cab and a windshield was a necessity. Believe it or not, the top windows on the doors and the back window are the heat shrink plastic storm window material - cheap and easy. Actually works so well I'm going to leave it on. By the way, the entire cab can be removed with 6 screws. Doors lift off their hinges, requiring no hardware removal, windshield is just taped on with 4 pieces of clear packing tape, although I did try using magnetic tap to hold it to the ROPES but it was not strong enough to hold, hence the cracked windshield.

The heat system is still work in progress also, just made this last weekend. The duct work is actually cardboard taped to a plastic container, held on with bungy cords. The cardboard on the sides was added yesterday, but still too much cold air gets in. Am considering removing the heat shield and replacing with one without the bent over top so the heat from exhaust could go directly up. I also added a toggle switch which bypasses the temp switch for the fan, so I can control when it comes on. In the winter, the fan never comes on by itself.

I will say the articulating tractor has made designing a cab a real challenge, as is the heating system. There is plenty of heat generated by the engine, it has been tough trying to figure out how to get it into the cab. I'm open to any suggestions.

 

[J_J]

Why not use flexible duct. Perhaps an in-line duct fan, if they make one using 12 v.

 

[DCWhitley]

Now that REALLY cracks me up!!!


DC - how do you like the enclosed cab. Looks impressive, even has a wiper. I have had two tractors with just front glass and removed it on both because of the glare at times. Do you have that problem?

Ken

Ken - it beats the snow blowing in your face at 10 degrees! I will agree you can't see as well, but many time I'm out for 2 hours at a time, so comfort is big for me. Did I mention I was lazy too?

I have include a picture below. One of my excuses for getting the tractor was that I told my wife I would keep a skating trail open on the lake, so I have tried to live up to that this year. Boy, did I underestimate how difficult and time consuming it is. That really was my motivation for the heat. This picture was taken before I added the back, I thought 3 sides would be enough, but not with the wind blowing down the Lake!

 

[DCWhitley]

Why not use flexible duct. Perhaps an in-line duct fan, if they make one using 12 v.

J.J. - I had thought of that but decided why not try and use the fan that is already there and not used in the winter. Did I mention I'm cheap also? I had thought about going straight up off the fan with ridged flue pipe, then into the cab over my head with flexible hose, still a possibility. The current rig actually delivers enough air to the cab, it just isn't hot enough, I need the air that come from near the exhaust pipe, that air is hot. The other thing I like about this design is that it doesn't stick out anywhere on the side, so there is nothing to catch.

 

[MossRoad]

I have include a picture below. One of my excuses for getting the tractor was that I told my wife I would keep a skating trail open on the lake, so I have tried to live up to that this year. Boy, did I underestimate how difficult and time consuming it is. That really was my motivation for the heat. This picture was taken before I added the back, I thought 3 sides would be enough, but not with the wind blowing down the Lake!

That is a great shot!

As for heat from the engine compartment, I agree with J_J. Make some sort of cover for the existing fan, 90 degree it forward and reduce it to a 6" round duct. Reduce it again to two 3" flexible ducts and port them where you want them. Perhaps one under the seat and one towards the top of the cab?

Have you thought about a hydraulic cooler mounted to the underside of the canopy?

 

[DCWhitley]

Just an update on the Firewood Rack. Drawing attached reflects the way I made it. One good thing is that it easily comes apart into the top piece, bottom piece and 4 lengths of rebar for easy summer storage. I ripped the top 1' length of 2x4 so all the wood comes out of 1 12' 2x4. 5' was higher than I wanted, but rebar comes in 10' lengths. It is a little tipsy when transporting (I just tie it off) but is very sturdy when on the ground.

 

[DCWhitley]

That is a great shot!

As for heat from the engine compartment, I agree with J_J. Make some sort of cover for the existing fan, 90 degree it forward and reduce it to a 6" round duct. Reduce it again to two 3" flexible ducts and port them where you want them. Perhaps one under the seat and one towards the top of the cab?

Have you thought about a hydraulic cooler mounted to the underside of the canopy?

MR - When I make any modifications to my PT, they have got to be easy and quick to change back depending on the season. For that reason I wouldn't change the hydraulic cooling system (I did mention I was lazy, right?) However, all suggestion will be reviewed, it is just that I try not to get too radical in my changes. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[BobRip]

I like the cab and heater, but is there any possibility of CO getting into the air stream? Maybe you should have a CO monitor in the cab. How about some more pictures. Sorry for the paranoia.

 

[Rivco]

When I built the cab for my PT I purchased a 12 volt aux. heater from Northern Hydraulics. The down side of the heater was, that it drew 30 Amps , so you could only run it intermittently...but it put out a lot of heat for a small cab. At one time Robin offered a 30 Amp recharging system as an upgrade to the 15 Amp factory system which would be an big improvement if you are running Aux. lights and a heater.

 

[3238dpw]

Well I guess I have been asleep at the switch. So many replys before I read about this cab thing. Well DC you definatly need to post more details about how you have made this. As you can see there are a lot of us interested.

Also is it just me or do all of RIVCO's pics disapear after they have been up for a short time.

 

[Gravy]

When I built the cab for my PT I purchased a 12 volt aux. heater from Northern Hydraulics. The down side of the heater was, that it drew 30 Amps , so you could only run it intermittently...but it put out a lot of heat for a small cab. At one time Robin offered a 30 Amp recharging system as an upgrade to the 15 Amp factory system which would be an big improvement if you are running Aux. lights and a heater.

FWIW, back when JackRobin participated here, he told me that my Robin engine has the 30 amp system.


It's really not too difficult to monitor electrical loads vs. your charging system. All it requires is a decent quality voltmeter. Under full throttle/full electrical load operating conditions, if you have somewhere between about 13.8 and 14.6 VDC at the battery terminals, you are probably OK. Much lower and your battery will run down. Too much higher and it will toast or even explode.

For most of us a battery maintenance charger such as a Battery Tender is a good bet. Even so, I don't expect anything over 3 years from a battery in any lawn/garden equipment.

 

[Rivco]

Also is it just me or do all of RIVCO's pics disapear after they have been up for a short time.

No, it's not just you. After a while I remove them for safe keeping or if they don't have anything to do with the original posters thread content.

 

[3238dpw]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the steering wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

 

[MossRoad]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

And don't forget about clearing the lift arms at full height and the joystick hitting the inside of the windshield when you push forward.

 

[DCWhitley]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the steering wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

Hi Scott - that is exactly what I did, I moved the ROPS as far forward as I could and remounted it. The real dilemma I faced was to build the cab with or without the ROPS. I would have been much easier without it, but for safety I felt I needed to keep it. Since I have had a few questions about the cab, I will get some picture together and describe what I did on a new thread. It may take a few days as it's been real cold lately and I have been hesitant to spend much of time outside.

 

[J_J]

Apparently some of you have never heated up Plexiglas, and formed it to fit. You simply heat up the Plexiglas until it is soft. and gently push out a small bubble for the lever handle, or a bulge for the steering wheel. If you want to practice, take a small piece of Plexiglas with a heat lamp and when soft, push out a fist full with gloves on or rags wrapped around your hand, A bowling ball will make a nice round indentation.