Firewood Gathering With A Power Trac

[DCWhitley]

That is a great shot!

As for heat from the engine compartment, I agree with J_J. Make some sort of cover for the existing fan, 90 degree it forward and reduce it to a 6" round duct. Reduce it again to two 3" flexible ducts and port them where you want them. Perhaps one under the seat and one towards the top of the cab?

Have you thought about a hydraulic cooler mounted to the underside of the canopy?

MR - When I make any modifications to my PT, they have got to be easy and quick to change back depending on the season. For that reason I wouldn't change the hydraulic cooling system (I did mention I was lazy, right?) However, all suggestion will be reviewed, it is just that I try not to get too radical in my changes. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[BobRip]

I like the cab and heater, but is there any possibility of CO getting into the air stream? Maybe you should have a CO monitor in the cab. How about some more pictures. Sorry for the paranoia.

 

[Rivco]

When I built the cab for my PT I purchased a 12 volt aux. heater from Northern Hydraulics. The down side of the heater was, that it drew 30 Amps , so you could only run it intermittently...but it put out a lot of heat for a small cab. At one time Robin offered a 30 Amp recharging system as an upgrade to the 15 Amp factory system which would be an big improvement if you are running Aux. lights and a heater.

 

[3238dpw]

Well I guess I have been asleep at the switch. So many replys before I read about this cab thing. Well DC you definatly need to post more details about how you have made this. As you can see there are a lot of us interested.

Also is it just me or do all of RIVCO's pics disapear after they have been up for a short time.

 

[Gravy]

When I built the cab for my PT I purchased a 12 volt aux. heater from Northern Hydraulics. The down side of the heater was, that it drew 30 Amps , so you could only run it intermittently...but it put out a lot of heat for a small cab. At one time Robin offered a 30 Amp recharging system as an upgrade to the 15 Amp factory system which would be an big improvement if you are running Aux. lights and a heater.

FWIW, back when JackRobin participated here, he told me that my Robin engine has the 30 amp system.


It's really not too difficult to monitor electrical loads vs. your charging system. All it requires is a decent quality voltmeter. Under full throttle/full electrical load operating conditions, if you have somewhere between about 13.8 and 14.6 VDC at the battery terminals, you are probably OK. Much lower and your battery will run down. Too much higher and it will toast or even explode.

For most of us a battery maintenance charger such as a Battery Tender is a good bet. Even so, I don't expect anything over 3 years from a battery in any lawn/garden equipment.

 

[Rivco]

Also is it just me or do all of RIVCO's pics disapear after they have been up for a short time.

No, it's not just you. After a while I remove them for safe keeping or if they don't have anything to do with the original posters thread content.

 

[3238dpw]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the steering wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

 

[MossRoad]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

And don't forget about clearing the lift arms at full height and the joystick hitting the inside of the windshield when you push forward.

 

[DCWhitley]

Ok cab has got me interested. DC how di you fit the windshield? Is your PT different than mine. I dug up an old blurry pic that shows my consern. On my PT I couldn't mount it the way you did, I don't think because it would not clear the steering wheel or the box the wheel is mounted to. Did you mount your Rops forward of stock position?

Hi Scott - that is exactly what I did, I moved the ROPS as far forward as I could and remounted it. The real dilemma I faced was to build the cab with or without the ROPS. I would have been much easier without it, but for safety I felt I needed to keep it. Since I have had a few questions about the cab, I will get some picture together and describe what I did on a new thread. It may take a few days as it's been real cold lately and I have been hesitant to spend much of time outside.

 

[J_J]

Apparently some of you have never heated up Plexiglas, and formed it to fit. You simply heat up the Plexiglas until it is soft. and gently push out a small bubble for the lever handle, or a bulge for the steering wheel. If you want to practice, take a small piece of Plexiglas with a heat lamp and when soft, push out a fist full with gloves on or rags wrapped around your hand, A bowling ball will make a nice round indentation.