Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G

   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G #11  
I always use 26G on the roof and 29G on the sides. You can get galvalume in either guage.

I have seen hurricanes rip 29G from roofs leaving the screw with a small amount of torn metal around it still in the wood. 26G is much harder for the wind to tear.

Wind does not affect steel walls nearly as much as roofs so 29G is usually fine on the sides.
 
   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Wow, I appreciate all the great input here. I've talked to a few more barn-building companies and most have between a $400 to $700 upgrade for 26G painted siding. Either gauge says its CentralGuard, a product by Valspar paints with a 40yr paint warranty.

Speaking of siding, a friend of mine is buying a house and the builder is "throwing in" a 24x30x12 building with each new house purchase. I went out to look at it the other day and saw that the inside wasn't insulated. I also noticed how many screws had been driven through the siding but had nothing to bite into. Granted it was secured to the girts extremely well, but the builder made it look good on the outside without apparently thinking about potential leak points in the future. Who cares if the outside is symmetrical if you have a bunch of leaks on the inside?
 
   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G #13  
Wow, I appreciate all the great input here. I've talked to a few more barn-building companies and most have between a $400 to $700 upgrade for 26G painted siding. Either gauge says its CentralGuard, a product by Valspar paints with a 40yr paint warranty.

Speaking of siding, a friend of mine is buying a house and the builder is "throwing in" a 24x30x12 building with each new house purchase. I went out to look at it the other day and saw that the inside wasn't insulated. I also noticed how many screws had been driven through the siding but had nothing to bite into. Granted it was secured to the girts extremely well, but the builder made it look good on the outside without apparently thinking about potential leak points in the future. Who cares if the outside is symmetrical if you have a bunch of leaks on the inside?

Depending on the screw used they can be driven into steel only with only a minute risk of leaking. Mostly just looks bad to future customers.:eek:
 
   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G #14  
Wow, I appreciate all the great input here. I've talked to a few more barn-building companies and most have between a $400 to $700 upgrade for 26G painted siding. Either gauge says its CentralGuard, a product by Valspar paints with a 40yr paint warranty.

Speaking of siding, a friend of mine is buying a house and the builder is "throwing in" a 24x30x12 building with each new house purchase. I went out to look at it the other day and saw that the inside wasn't insulated. I also noticed how many screws had been driven through the siding but had nothing to bite into. Granted it was secured to the girts extremely well, but the builder made it look good on the outside without apparently thinking about potential leak points in the future. Who cares if the outside is symmetrical if you have a bunch of leaks on the inside?

I would have the builder to insulate at time of construction, not that expensive if done when building. Metal buildings will sometimes sweat. I never did like to wear a raincoat and rain hat when working inside.
 
   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G #15  
My builder wants $4800 for just insulating the roof of a 30X40X12. I told him no thanks. Knowing the price of the insulation, I think it was extremely high.
 
   / Steel Siding - 26G vs 29G #16  
I also passed on the insulation, too expensive from the builder. I did have some sweat dripping from the roof, but only until the concrete floor was completely dry. After that no issues whatsoever.
 

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