2000 F150 Triton 5.4L #&*@!! = $$$$$$$
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kebo
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Well, my latest update.... but it's GREAT news!!! The shop called me today at lunchtimeand said it was reay to go!! I said' "you're kidding me??" I asked how he got all the plugs out, and his response was; "very carefully"!! So, they got all the plugs out, apparently by soaking with penetrating fluid and working them back and forth carfully and giving the fluid time to soak in.
He had to use an easy out to get the one plug that was broken off out of the head. First he had to punch the porcelain (with the center electrode in it) on through into the chamber. He then used the easy out to get what was left of the plug out of the threads. I asked how the got the porcelain out? He used a long piece of steel rod with some rtv on the end, grabbed it up like glue. He ran a very small bore camera down into the chamber to make sure it was all clear inside.
When he put the new plugs in, he used anti-seize. Someone here said not to use it on aluminum heads but I can't see why it would possibly be a bad thing?? Can you please explain?? He also torqued the plugs to spec as well.
They had to replace two of the COP's, both ends I guess got damaged from being taken out so many times, plus some of them were 10 years old. I've replaced at least three myself that I can recall over the years that had started misfiring.
With parts, labor, and tax it came to right at $569. I'm happy. Got my truck back for a LOT LESS than a new motor (or having to pull the heads) and it runs great. That ford dealer can kiss it where the sun don't shine.
I'll never set foot in their door again, even if I have to drive to Detroit Michigan to get a $5 part. Thanks for everyones comments though!!! This is THE BEST forum I've ever had the privilege to be a part of.
Old picture of it here, but it's sitting in the same place right now!
He had to use an easy out to get the one plug that was broken off out of the head. First he had to punch the porcelain (with the center electrode in it) on through into the chamber. He then used the easy out to get what was left of the plug out of the threads. I asked how the got the porcelain out? He used a long piece of steel rod with some rtv on the end, grabbed it up like glue. He ran a very small bore camera down into the chamber to make sure it was all clear inside.
When he put the new plugs in, he used anti-seize. Someone here said not to use it on aluminum heads but I can't see why it would possibly be a bad thing?? Can you please explain?? He also torqued the plugs to spec as well.
They had to replace two of the COP's, both ends I guess got damaged from being taken out so many times, plus some of them were 10 years old. I've replaced at least three myself that I can recall over the years that had started misfiring.
With parts, labor, and tax it came to right at $569. I'm happy. Got my truck back for a LOT LESS than a new motor (or having to pull the heads) and it runs great. That ford dealer can kiss it where the sun don't shine.
I'll never set foot in their door again, even if I have to drive to Detroit Michigan to get a $5 part. Thanks for everyones comments though!!! This is THE BEST forum I've ever had the privilege to be a part of. Old picture of it here, but it's sitting in the same place right now!
Diamondpilot
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Glad you got her running. Just shows you how valuable a competent mechanic is compared to some idiot at Jiffy Lube.
Nice looking truck also. Even green to match your JD.
Chris
Nice looking truck also. Even green to match your JD.
Chris
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kebo
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Thanks DP. I'm planning to get it re-painted soon. You can't tell in the pic (well you can if you look real close just above and to the right of the F150 badge) but the clearcoat is peeling badly. It's even worse on the other side. I won't blame that on Ford since just about every carmakers clearcoat peeled when they first started putting clearcoat on them.
But yeah, I learned a few good lessons from this ordeal. You are correct about one of them. I also learned of a very competent mechanic close to my house, so when needed again, he'll certainly get my business. Not Quick-lube!!
I came across a set of the Ford 5 spoke rims on CL a few weeks ago, which are same ones they put on the F150's with the FX4 package. I've always liked the 5 spoke rims better than the teardrop shaped rims on it now. When I get it re-painted, I'm going to put those rims on it along with a new FX4 decal that's also in camoflauge. Should look even better!
The two shades of green don't quite match though, maybe I should consider painting the truck JD green????
But yeah, I learned a few good lessons from this ordeal. You are correct about one of them. I also learned of a very competent mechanic close to my house, so when needed again, he'll certainly get my business. Not Quick-lube!!
I came across a set of the Ford 5 spoke rims on CL a few weeks ago, which are same ones they put on the F150's with the FX4 package. I've always liked the 5 spoke rims better than the teardrop shaped rims on it now. When I get it re-painted, I'm going to put those rims on it along with a new FX4 decal that's also in camoflauge. Should look even better!
The two shades of green don't quite match though, maybe I should consider painting the truck JD green????
ModMech
Platinum Member
Believe it or not, the Tq applied to a fastener matters if it is lubricated or not and to some extent even with what.
The idea of torquing ANYTHING is to, get this, bring the fastener to a "yield" condition, or very near to it. Think of a chain turn-buckle, if it's too loose (not in or near yield) it can work loose, but if it's good and tight (in yield) the system is said to be "elastic" and will hold tight under load. If too tight, the system will fail (broken links, stripped threads etc).
A "steel" bolt (spark plug) in an aluminum bore needs to be carefully torqued, we've most likely all stripped the threads from a SGE before (me = guilty as well). That is from too much Tq, well actually too much rotation, too much stress on the threads. No ask yourself, if I lubricate a threaded connection it's easier to turn right? So the same Tq input will result in greater rotation. OOPS! It's WAY too easy to over torque a sparkplug in an aluminum head, or a bolt in an aluminum case (transmission, transfer case, block etc).
The Ford spec is for DRY threads, oiled or anti-siezed threads will rotate further than dry threads due to frictional differences and hence it is MUCH more likely you will "over torque" the sparkplugs with a lubricant - even though the actual Tq applied would be the same in either case.
The idea of torquing ANYTHING is to, get this, bring the fastener to a "yield" condition, or very near to it. Think of a chain turn-buckle, if it's too loose (not in or near yield) it can work loose, but if it's good and tight (in yield) the system is said to be "elastic" and will hold tight under load. If too tight, the system will fail (broken links, stripped threads etc).
A "steel" bolt (spark plug) in an aluminum bore needs to be carefully torqued, we've most likely all stripped the threads from a SGE before (me = guilty as well). That is from too much Tq, well actually too much rotation, too much stress on the threads. No ask yourself, if I lubricate a threaded connection it's easier to turn right? So the same Tq input will result in greater rotation. OOPS! It's WAY too easy to over torque a sparkplug in an aluminum head, or a bolt in an aluminum case (transmission, transfer case, block etc).
The Ford spec is for DRY threads, oiled or anti-siezed threads will rotate further than dry threads due to frictional differences and hence it is MUCH more likely you will "over torque" the sparkplugs with a lubricant - even though the actual Tq applied would be the same in either case.
ModMech
Platinum Member
Eh, most engines now have recessed sparkplug wells and Al heads.
Why? We now get 100HP/liter with MANY engine models and ultra-low emissions never before possible. Technological advances I tell you, advances!
buck12
Veteran Member
Or some the of the idiot mechanics at dealerships. I will take the local independent mechanic any day. You know the one that remembers more about my vehicles than I do and will tell me if its a job I can do.
buck12
Veteran Member
Glad it worked out and for a reasonable price. Bet you have a mechanic for life.
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kebo
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Looks like I'll be needing that mechanic again!!! Just yesterday I was at the Walmart near my parents home (about 75 miles from where I live) and I shut off the engine to go inside and get a few things for them. Everything was just fine with the motor when I shut it off. Went back out and cranked it up, and Lord that motor sounded horrible!!! Thought it had blown up at first, then I realized it sounded more like a bad exhaust manifold leak on one cylinder. You could tell the noise was occurring as one cylinder in particular was firing. Listening closer I realized it had blown out a spark plug!!! #@*#!!! Oh crap.
Started thinking that I should have it towed to a garage since I didn't have any tools with me, but I thought it would be ok to drive it like that for a mile and a half to a nearby garage. Drove it with a loud popping and a dead skip, yeah it got a few looks from drivers that went by me as I slowly made my way along the 4 lane bypass!! Got to the garage and the mechanic jumped right on it. It was the 1st cylinder on the left bank (driver side). The plug itself had literally come apart, the center electrode with the porcelain insulator had come out of its outer threaded shell!! He backed out what was left of the shell from the cylinder head and it looked like the cylinder threads were ok, thank goodness!! When the plug blew, it pushed the coil pack up which caused it to break the little plastic tang that is used to bolt it to the manifold. Not a biggy. A new plug delivered by NAPA and I was on my way in a short time.
How often does something like that happen??? I know it was a first for me, just my unlucky day, huh?
Started thinking that I should have it towed to a garage since I didn't have any tools with me, but I thought it would be ok to drive it like that for a mile and a half to a nearby garage. Drove it with a loud popping and a dead skip, yeah it got a few looks from drivers that went by me as I slowly made my way along the 4 lane bypass!!
Got to the garage and the mechanic jumped right on it. It was the 1st cylinder on the left bank (driver side). The plug itself had literally come apart, the center electrode with the porcelain insulator had come out of its outer threaded shell!! He backed out what was left of the shell from the cylinder head and it looked like the cylinder threads were ok, thank goodness!! When the plug blew, it pushed the coil pack up which caused it to break the little plastic tang that is used to bolt it to the manifold. Not a biggy. A new plug delivered by NAPA and I was on my way in a short time. How often does something like that happen??? I know it was a first for me, just my unlucky day, huh?
Diamondpilot
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I know guys will jump all over this but I think it was just a bad plug.
Yes, 5.4L engines of that era have been know to blow the plugs. I have never seen it owning nearly 12 between me, my father, and BIL and my customers owning well over another 50. Only Ford I have seen blow plugs was a 99 F-250 with the V-10 and it stripped out the threads. There is a $80 fix for that any competent mechanic can do.
My guess is it was a bad plug or damaged when put in. From what I remember that back plug is a pain on the drivers side because of the master cylinder. I would bet tomorrows lunch money the mechanic, no matter how competent, put a side load on the socket and extension while putting it in and it cracked the plug. It went undetected till this time.
Happens all the time to me when working on 7.4 and 8.1 liter GM motors in boats. I have gotten into the habit of buying 10 plugs when I do them motors even though they are just 8 cylinders.
Chris
Yes, 5.4L engines of that era have been know to blow the plugs. I have never seen it owning nearly 12 between me, my father, and BIL and my customers owning well over another 50. Only Ford I have seen blow plugs was a 99 F-250 with the V-10 and it stripped out the threads. There is a $80 fix for that any competent mechanic can do.
My guess is it was a bad plug or damaged when put in. From what I remember that back plug is a pain on the drivers side because of the master cylinder. I would bet tomorrows lunch money the mechanic, no matter how competent, put a side load on the socket and extension while putting it in and it cracked the plug. It went undetected till this time.
Happens all the time to me when working on 7.4 and 8.1 liter GM motors in boats. I have gotten into the habit of buying 10 plugs when I do them motors even though they are just 8 cylinders.
Chris
