Snow Attachments I can testify what isn't so hot for snow

[Wildbill34]

A couple of things can cause the bolts to go. Excessive vibration and it seems to me a #2 grade is light. However, I have also found that if you use loctite when you put them on, it prevents them from backing out a little to the point where the vibration begins. I went through the same thing last year, except on an impeller and I finally used loctite and I am still running on the same bolt from last year. With that said, I will probably go out and break it on the next snow storm. But suprisingly, they will back out just enough to rattle. Second thing to consider is how tight you are tighting the bolt. You very well may be stretching it a bit if you are too tight wiith the wrench.

Couple of thoughts for you to think about.

 

[Lt CHEG]

Granted it's not a snow blower but I use a #8 bolt where the driveshaft attaches to my PTO output. I was told that the #2's are too soft and will bend before breaking when subjected to that kind of shear which could cause damage to the tractor or bush hog. The #8 bolts are so hard that they don't do well against shear type stress and will generally break cleanly without bending.

 

[SARG]

Just as a final comment........ the grade #2 bolt which is 2" in length...... so that the body of the bolt is at the fracture point versus the threaded section appears to be just beefier enough ......... no broken bolts today during another clean up session.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Just as a final comment........ the grade #2 bolt which is 2" in length...... so that the body of the bolt is at the fracture point versus the threaded section appears to be just beefier enough ......... no broken bolts today during another clean up session.

Good deal!!

Hopefully you've fixed the problem.

 

[Usta]

I am getting a bit worried. I have a Meteor 51" rear blower that I purchased late last fall. The first thing I did was drill 5 holes in the shaft cover to bolt on 5 spare shear bolts. Manual says to use 1/4 x 1 #2 bolts. I have not sheared a bolt yet. I have actually tried to stress the blower shear bolts by getting into wet snow to the point of seriously bogging down the engine. Then getting into old crusty snow banks. Would not shear. I even removed the shear bolts to verify the shafts spun easy without the bolts.

Guess I am just lucky from the sounds of others experiences.

 

[wedge40]

I am getting a bit worried. I have a Meteor 51" rear blower that I purchased late last fall. The first thing I did was drill 5 holes in the shaft cover to bolt on 5 spare shear bolts. Manual says to use 1/4 x 1 #2 bolts. I have not sheared a bolt yet. I have actually tried to stress the blower shear bolts by getting into wet snow to the point of seriously bogging down the engine. Then getting into old crusty snow banks. Would not shear. I even removed the shear bolts to verify the shafts spun easy without the bolts.

Guess I am just lucky from the sounds of others experiences.

I would check the bolt head and make sure you have to correct grade bolt in there currently? Somebody might have been having problems and put #8's instead of #2's.. I assuming this is a used machine.

Wedge

 

[SARG]

I am getting a bit worried. I have a Meteor 51" rear blower that I purchased late last fall. The first thing I did was drill 5 holes in the shaft cover to bolt on 5 spare shear bolts. Manual says to use 1/4 x 1 #2 bolts. I have not sheared a bolt yet. I have actually tried to stress the blower shear bolts by getting into wet snow to the point of seriously bogging down the engine. Then getting into old crusty snow banks. Would not shear. I even removed the shear bolts to verify the shafts spun easy without the bolts.

Guess I am just lucky from the sounds of others experiences.

I have had no issues with the shear bolt you are referencing. The bolt on the PTO shaft has been the initial problem .... I suspect because of the extreme snow conditions. This is the 5.5 mm x 2" bolt that I switched over to the standard 1/4-20 after using up all the metric I had purchased with the blower.

 

[bdeboer]

Have you tried lock pins instead of bolts? This is a 1/4" version:

Lock Pin Sw 1/4 X 2 1/2 - 1833553 | Tractor Supply Company

I use the 3/8" version in my TSC brush-hog, beats having to get wrenches out every time I hit something. I used to use grade 5 7/16" bolts on the PTO shaft. I seem to get a better life span out of them than I did the bolts also.

Lock Pin, 3/8 Point, Pack of 2 - 0265244 | Tractor Supply Company

Although If the grade 2 bolts aren't breaking randomly I would stay with manufacturer recommendation.

 

[HSSC]

Out here in the Sierras we get what is called Sierra Cement. I live at 5500' and many times I have to deal with Sierra Cement turned into gloppy wet snow. If the over night temps get below freezing it sometimes can help to dry/freeze the snow some what and that aids the snowblower.

I would never use a grade 8 for a shear pin. That could be very costly to other parts.