Buying Advice Wheel Weights or Calcium

[Bacffin]

I have the option to have either wheel weights or calcium for the rear tires on the BX2660 or BX25 during purchase. I will be getting turf tires. Does anyone prefer one over the other? I have a buddy who made up a block of concrete to attach to the 3PH for his MF GC2310 and say's it works fine with no wheel weights.

Are the tires nowadays tubeless or tube? Does it matter?

Thanks Again,
Bruce

 

[3BPercherons]

If you decide to float the tires I recommend asking the dealer to use methanol instead of calcium chloride; any extra cost up front will be offset by not having to replace rims corroded by the CC down the road.

 

[flyingcow]

Rimguard? 10+lbs per gallon. Non-corrosive i think.

 

[TripleR]

I went with weights in lieu of liquid ballast on my BX2660. If you get a flat with fluid you will lose it all or have to pump it out in many cases to repair. Weights just seemed like less trouble to me. I do have liquid in my bigger tractors.

The tires are tubeless. The added weight will help a lot, but with FEL work, I still use counter weight if I am going to do very much.

 

[radioman]

I have rimguard in mine. I prefer that over wheel weights. I had a problem with the valve stem last summer, but didnt need to pump it out. I just popped the bead on one side and replaced stem and then aired up.

 

[Cruisin]

If you decide to float the tires I recommend asking the dealer to use methanol instead of calcium chloride; any extra cost up front will be offset by not having to replace rims corroded by the CC down the road.

My Kubota Tractor Owner's Manual specifically approves Calcium Chloride, not methanol, not beet juice, not windshield washer solvent.... Calcium Chloride is effective, economical and safe for use or it would not have been used longer than most of us have been alive, nor would the farmers and contractors that depend on their equipment continue to use it. If the Calcium Chloride presented any real problems, I don't think dealers would continue to use it and risk alienating their customers.

It's used extensively on roads as a de-icer so it's apparently non-toxic. There appears to be no damage to the proliferation of weeds or grass along these roads so the long term effects on vegitation seem to be minimal.

I have a pair of tubeless tires that have been loaded with Calcium for over 35 years with no problem. A normal puncture in a tubeless tire can be repaired in short order with a plug and minimal loss of fluid. Tubes, as recommended by many to combat the "corrosion problem", create serious tire repair inconvenience.

No matter which liquid is used, make sure there is no leakage from valve stems or around the bead. The constant moisture can cause corrosion as unlike inside the tire, air is present in sufficient quantities.

I have no dog in this fight other than an aversion to continuation of what I see as a MYTH. I apologize in advance to anyone who might be offended or might disagree. It is not my intent to disparage, or convert anyone to my way of thinking, only to assist the original poster.

 

[beenthere]

I'd go with windshield washer fluid (close to weight of water and cheap if that is a concern) if you want to do it yourself. I'd prefer the extra weight of the rimguard.

The dealer and tire man will want the calcium, as they will likely get the job (and money ) for pumping it in and out when, and if, that is ever needed. The manual will support the dealer too.

I recall the reason I finally sold my old tractor was because the rims were rusted as a result of calcium in the tires. Couldn't find replacement rims so gave up on the old antique.
No myth-stake about it.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I use weights. 60# per side, I think. Came with the tractor. Never had any issues. Thankfully, I've never had a flat, but if I did, I wouldn't want to be messing with the fluid.

 

[bp fick]

Went with weights. I wanted nothing to do with corrosion issues and wanted the ability to not have weight when crossing the lawns during spring and fall cleanup.

I'm sorry to be disagreeable, but a leak of calcium chloride (sodium is worse) will leave a very dead spot in a lawn. The grass medians in metropolitan S.E. Michigan are plagued with "salt killed" brown, dead grass from the brine over spray of cars. FWIW.

 

[kuboman]

My Kubota Tractor Owner's Manual specifically approves Calcium Chloride, not methanol, not beet juice, not windshield washer solvent.... Calcium Chloride is effective, economical and safe for use or it would not have been used longer than most of us have been alive, nor would the farmers and contractors that depend on their equipment continue to use it. If the Calcium Chloride presented any real problems, I don't think dealers would continue to use it and risk alienating their customers.

It's used extensively on roads as a de-icer so it's apparently non-toxic. There appears to be no damage to the proliferation of weeds or grass along these roads so the long term effects on vegitation seem to be minimal.

I have a pair of tubeless tires that have been loaded with Calcium for over 35 years with no problem. A normal puncture in a tubeless tire can be repaired in short order with a plug and minimal loss of fluid. Tubes, as recommended by many to combat the "corrosion problem", create serious tire repair inconvenience.

No matter which liquid is used, make sure there is no leakage from valve stems or around the bead. The constant moisture can cause corrosion as unlike inside the tire, air is present in sufficient quantities.

I have no dog in this fight other than an aversion to continuation of what I see as a MYTH. I apologize in advance to anyone who might be offended or might disagree. It is not my intent to disparage, or convert anyone to my way of thinking, only to assist the original poster.

Wow now here is someone with no experience with CC. It is VERY corrosive. The only reason Kubota recommends it is because it is common, not better.
Stay away from CC at all costs if possible.