Operating tractor on a grade.

[2dawoodz]

Just my second year operating a tractor (Ford NH 1920 fwd). Use it for planting food plots. Looking for advice on operating the tractor on a narrow food plot with what I estimate to be a 25 degree grade towards a pond. Expect the tires s/b inflated to just under max pressure to prevent sidewall from flexing. The plot is too narrow to turn around with having to do a 3 pt turn around. Thanks!

 

[ihuntbear]

25 degrees is alot.We have a 55 hp kubota at work that lost all hst on a slope 25 degrees.Went back wards as if you were in neutral.Hit the cement bridge on the way down.for some reason hst's aren't made to go on inclines past 22 degrees.if you have to drive safe

 

[RoyJackson]

Do all your travel up and down slope, if at all possible. If your tires aren't filled, get them filled. I don't know if your 1920 can accomodate dual rear tires, but if it can, you might want to consider them.
If your tractor has a ROPS, make sure you wear the seatbelt and keep it in good condition (and easy to release if you do go in to the pond).

 

[AchingBack]

What is the possibility of terracing your slope? Give yourself a flatter wider plot. That is what the Incas do.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I hope your 25 degree estimate is way wrong. Thats too steep for growing stuff. You want permanent coverage on a slope like that. ?????25% maybe????
larry

 

[tugboat-2]

First of all 2dawoodz, let me say WELCOME ABOARD to you. I must agree with the others that a 25 degree slope is way too dangerous,...especially for a fairly new operator.

I second the motion for loading your tires and if you can't widen your stance with duals or inverting your wheel rims,...consider spacers and possibly wheel weights to hold your high side on the ground.

As Roy suggested, do your slope work on the vertical if possible. I too must work a 25 degree slope so I have tires loaded and because my cab makes me a tad top heavy, I added 6 inch spacers to each side rear, giving me a foot more width. I watch my inclinometre carefully and drive slowly watching for uneven ground which could tip me. On that slope I carry my bucket and am always prepared to drop it fast if my pucker-factor indicates a possible tip.

I'm so glad you asked the question and I hope you'll consider the suggestions we've offered. Rolling down a slope with ROPS and seat belt is one thing but rolling down into a pond is quite another. You don't often get a second chance so be careful and good luck to you!

CHEERS!
. . tug

 

[TripleR]

Mowing on that steep of a slope scares me and I have been doing it for over twenty years. You have received a lot of good advice. When possible, I will mow up and down rather than across. When that is not possible, I will mow diagonally and sometimes mow only one pass going down and then go straight up and run the top to make another pass. By doing this if I start to lose it I can turn into the roll and drop the FEL and mower to lower the COG and help stop the tractor if needed. A lot is going to depend on your tractor so getting to know its characteristics and adapting it and your techniques will take some time and while doing so, BE CAREFUL, we have had to pull more than one machine out of a pond and a few years ago, just north of us a college student died when he put his tractor in a pond while working part time .

 

[MMagis]

I think spyderlk is right, there’s a big difference between 25 degrees and 25%. And there’s a good chance the estimate is way off, as it’s tough to judge slope without a lot of experience. As least I hope that's the case. Trying to plant on a 25 degree slope will be a waste of time.

 

[dboacres]

As someone who has had Ag safety classes since freshman in high school, I would repeat the general rules. Only run equipment straight down hill. Never pull plows, disc, graders up hill, because of dumping tractor over backwards. I live in the hills and do not like weighted rear tires. I'd rather they slip than grab going up hill. All my tractors are 4 WD so I don't have to lock rear axle. It only takes ONE mistake and you'll be at the bottom of the hill. As my neighbor learned eleven years ago. "Better safe than sorry"

 

[jda1961]

the best thinking on slopes is if you are in doubt then don't do it, is a food plot worth getting killed over?

 

[RoyJackson]

By doing this if I start to lose it I can turn into the roll and drop the FEL and mower to lower the COG and help stop the tractor if needed.

Drop off that loader before you start and you'll lower your C of G quite a bit. That loader frame adds a lot of weight above the axles.

 

[firefighter jim]

I think spyderlk is right, there痴 a big difference between 25 degrees and 25%. And there痴 a good chance the estimate is way off, as it痴 tough to judge slope without a lot of experience. As least I hope that's the case. Trying to plant on a 25 degree slope will be a waste of time.

MMagis, I also live in Guernsey County. Read Rd.

 

[firefighter jim]

25 degrees is alot.We have a 55 hp kubota at work that lost all hst on a slope 25 degrees.Went back wards as if you were in neutral.Hit the cement bridge on the way down.for some reason hst's aren't made to go on inclines past 22 degrees.if you have to drive safe

Hmm, That's a new one. I've had my HST on slopes that steep and never had a problem. For obvious reasons I would only recommend going straight up and straight down. My old trusty 8N popped out of gear one time on one of our hills and that was a problem! Was a brief wild ride but got it stopped.

 

[TripleR]

Drop off that loader before you start and you'll lower your C of G quite a bit. That loader frame adds a lot of weight above the axles.

Oftentimes good advice, but the FEL on my CX80 helps balance the weight of my 10 foot mower when going uphill and running the bucket low to the ground seems to help going across and is a PITA to remove anyway. With my smaller tractors, I always remove the FEL; guess you just need to know your tractor and do what works best.

 

[Grandad4]

Hmm, That's a new one. I've had my HST on slopes that steep and never had a problem. For obvious reasons I would only recommend going straight up and straight down. My old trusty 8N popped out of gear one time on one of our hills and that was a problem! Was a brief wild ride but got it stopped.

Being that an HST operates as a hydraulic pumping circuit, instead of a mechanical connection (i.e. gears), if you get the tractor tipped too steeply, the fluid in the bottom of the tranny can't reach the intake for the HST internal plumbing, resulting in cavitation. Different makes/models of tractors would each have their own unique limits, of course, but it's something to be aware of with any HST equipment.

There was a thread here on TBN several years ago about some fella who took his brand new tractor way out in the West Va hills, got it stuck on a steep hillside, and couldn't get it out again, all due to this kind of cavitation problem. Never did hear if he got it out of there.

I sort of figure any hill steep enough that it might cause this type of problem is way beyond where I want to be going for more obvious reasons.

 

[RoyJackson]

Oftentimes good advice, but the FEL on my CX80 helps balance the weight of my 10 foot mower when going uphill and running the bucket low to the ground seems to help going across and is a PITA to remove anyway. With my smaller tractors, I always remove the FEL; guess you just need to know your tractor and do what works best.

Why not purchase or manufacture front weights? Most factory weights I've seen have had the majority of the mass near or below the axle.
Although my loader is off most of the summer months, if I have to mow, I'll drop the QA bucket off. Even doing that considerably lowers the weight.

 

[TripleR]

Why not purchase or manufacture front weights? Most factory weights I've seen have had the majority of the mass near or below the axle.
Although my loader is off most of the summer months, if I have to mow, I'll drop the QA bucket off. Even doing that considerably lowers the weight.

Short answer, because it works for me and has for many years.

 

[firefighter jim]

Being that an HST operates as a hydraulic pumping circuit, instead of a mechanical connection (i.e. gears), if you get the tractor tipped too steeply, the fluid in the bottom of the tranny can't reach the intake for the HST internal plumbing, resulting in cavitation. Different makes/models of tractors would each have their own unique limits, of course, but it's something to be aware of with any HST equipment.

There was a thread here on TBN several years ago about some fella who took his brand new tractor way out in the West Va hills, got it stuck on a steep hillside, and couldn't get it out again, all due to this kind of cavitation problem. Never did hear if he got it out of there.

I sort of figure any hill steep enough that it might cause this type of problem is way beyond where I want to be going for more obvious reasons.

Interesting, thanks for the reply. Jim

 

[davygp38]

I have to go up a steep hill to get to part of my property. I always go straight up. I have a bucket loader, and back hoe. I almost rolled it, because I slipped to one side, and the machine wheels locked. My solution was to have the bucket filled with rocks. as low to the ground as possible, and in four wheel drive. I have since purchased a bigger machine,(L) and Kubota has done some advertising, on how they extended the wheel base on this size tractor. I also have logging chains on most of the year. Because I primarily do food plots as well. That experience was enough to make me extra safety conscience. The tires on the old machine, were filled, and it was a shuttle shift, 4x4, so The HST may not be the problem.

 

[MMagis]

MMagis, I also live in Guernsey County. Read Rd.

I'll be darned, small world. You probably had some dicey rides to work last month. It's been a while, but I remember some curves and hills that could get interesting in bad weather. I'm out on Boden Road, NW of town about 7 miles or so, off of 209.