Help! 284 won't start, throttle problem

[meporsche]

My pump is somewhat different, I have the engine with the swirl port injection and NO glow plugs. I'm guessing that's why the pump is different?
I will post a photo of it.

Is there any way I can find out which pump I have by listing the engine info/serial # here?

Thanks,

Darwin

 

[Affordable]

The Pump will have a ID plate on it with a number, They are still basicly the same under the head, some have a side plate some do not

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[meporsche]

Any idea where the plate is? Here is a poor picture of the pump, it is raining and everything is wet.

If I take off the side plate covering the springs/discs will I be able to jimmy them a bot from there? Or should I take off the top head where the hard lines connect? I don't want to have spring loaded parts flying out if I remove the head.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That pump looks just like the one on my 2003 Jinma 254. I could not see a label on my pump either but just took a quick look. My engine is a Yangdong 385

Chris

 

[RonMar]

Nice pics Tommy. That governor has captive flyweights. The only pics of one of these I have seen had ballbearings, but the same principal applies.

Meporsche: In the pic that Tommy posted, with that side plate cover removed, that round rod running across the opening(with the 3 screws on it) is the fuel rack. behind that are the plunger springs, and the discs tommy is refering to. would guess that if one of them is out of place, it probably binds the fuel rack travel, so none of the pump pistons gets to deliver fuel?

With that side cover off, you will be able to see if they are all the same, and check for proper rack movement. The rack moves forward to increase fuel delivered, and toward the rear of the tractor to decrease fuel delivered. With the engine NOT running, the shutdown lever all the way forward, and a little bit of throttle applied, the throttle spring(in the rear of the governor) should be pushing the rack all the way forward to the full throttle position. It stays there untill the engine starts, and the RPM increases to the point that the spinning flyweights in the governor start to overpower the throttle spring and pull the rack off of full throttle. Pulling the shutdown lever toward the rear should also pull the rack toward the rear of the tractor just like the governor weights would if the engine was running. I do not know how far the rack should be able to travel, but if it is starting at it's full throttle position, I would think it should start to move to the rear shortly after you start to move the shutdown lever to the rear. If you pull the shutdown lever all the way to the rear and it dosn't move, or only moves toward the end of the shutdown travel, then the rack is stuck at low throttle and not delivering enough fuel to fire the engine.

It looks as if you will have to remove the hand plunger/feed pump assembly to gain access to this cover plate. I would definitely want to talk to the dealer before I started disassembling a pump on a tractor that is under warranty...

 

[stevem5215]

1974 Massey Furguson 135

You could get another 135 here. It doesn't sound like the Chinese tractor is working out for you.

Steve (with a FarmPro 2420)

 

[meporsche]

Hi,

I'm posting a pic of the rack. There is quite a bit of varnish in the housing. The rack was all the way to the rear of the tractor, I was poking and prodding and it sort of jumped forward to the position it is in now when I gave it a little pressure. It does not however, move at all when the fuel cutoff or speed control is moved.

Any ideas? I'm going to spray it down with solvent to clean it. SHould it move freely back and forth?

If the governor changes the fuel to "full on" when the engine is off, then moving my throttle lever isn't going to do anything unless the engine is running, correct?

Thanks,
Darwin

 

[meporsche]

OK, I think I'm talking to myself here but here goes:

I was able to free up the rack, I cleaned the gunk off the shaft with some PB blaster and it now moves back and forth easily, either with my fingers or the cutoff lever. I'm operating with the idea that the throttle is inoperable until the engine runs and the governor "tells" the shaft to close it down to the stop point that the lever is set to. Soo, everything seems to be working right. I am going to button it back up, fill the pump with diesel, bleed the lines and see if it will start. If it does I'll bleed out the diesel and re-fill it with oil.

If anyone has any suggestions or cautions, plet me know.

Thanks,

Darwin

 

[Diamondpilot]

I hope you found the problem. Looks like it was a issue with the old crap oil that was in there gumming up the works. Hope you get it. Keep us informed.

If this does do the trick I would run it about a hour varying the throttle then shut it down and change the oil. I would then run it for 3 or so more hours and change the oil again in the pump. I would then run it for 10 hours or so and change it again. Hopefully this will flush it out and won't cost much, just 1qt of oil and some of your time.

Chris

 

[meporsche]

Well, thanks to all the help I rec'd I am back in business. Here is what happened:

Accumulated gunk in the IP caused the rack to stick. When I started it, the governor couldn't overcome the resistance and the throttle was stuck open. My panic shutdown merely caused the rack to jam at the opposite end, thereby depriving the engine of fuel.

Freeing the rack and cleaning it allowed it move freely, in fact more freely than it ever has if the lowered resistance to throttle movement is any indication.

I have a combination of diesel and motor oil in it now. I ran it for about 45 minutes and will now change to regular motor oil. That will be changed again shortly.

I now realize that I am getting leakage from the IP reservoir through the breather cap, I'm not sure why. This fluid s/b static rather than under pressure, correct?

Anyway, I want to thank everyone who helped me out. I really panic without a tractor, time to get my MF fixed I guess. Have to have a spare.

Darwin

 

[greg_g]

will now change to regular motor oil. That will be changed again shortly.

I've been using ISO100 compressor oil in my Chinese injector pumps for years. Just read where the owners manuals on newer models are now actually specifying exactly that. Something to consider as an alternative to motor oil

If you're getting blowback through the fill/vent, it's overfull. Of what, you'll have to determine yourself. It could have been a simple matter of pouring in too much of your fuel/oil mixture, or you could have an internal leak that's raising the lube oil level with fuel.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

I've been using ISO100 compressor oil in my Chinese injector pumps for years. Just read where the owners manuals on newer models are now actually specifying exactly that. Something to consider as an alternative to motor oil

If you're getting blowback through the fill/vent, it's overfull. Of what, you'll have to determine yourself. It could have been a simple matter of pouring in too much of your fuel/oil mixture, or you could have an internal leak that's raising the lube oil level with fuel.

//greg//

Compressor oil or full Synthetic oil in mine.
Mark

 

[Diamondpilot]

I run a HD High detergent 30W motor oil. I think no matter what you run, whether its compressor oil, 30W motor oil, 15W40 diesel oil, or synthetic the trick is to change it regularly.

I change my engine oil every 50 hours and my injector pump oil every other time or at even 100 hour intervals.

Set up a good maintenance schedule for oil changes and other items like gear oils, hydro oils, hydro filter, air filter, fuel filter, and greasing the chassis. A few hours of work and a few dollars on supplies will save you tons. My tractor like many others out there has not missed a beat for 725 plus hours.

At the end of the day you got it going. Glad you got the help you needed here.

Chris

 

[RonMar]

Yep, the rack needs to move freely. Glad you found the problem. I use ISO100 in my injector pump/governor.

As to the overflow, it is probably from an overfill and will eventually stop after a few heat cycles/expansions allow the excess to escape out that vent port. It can't grow oil, so if it continues to overflow, you will probably find that it is diesel finding it's way into the resovoir from the upper IP...