SPACER FOR CHEVY

[workinallthetime]

Put a 3" lift kit on my 07 when it had 15k miles on it. It now has 60k on it, i tow my b3030 all over the place and the spring rate did not change at all with the kit, how could it? call ready lift or truxxx and tell them you need blocks for the back and they will ship them to you with new u bolts. Mkae sure you use plenty of anti sieze on the new ubolts before you put them on and make sure the locate hole is well locarted.

The downward slope of the front end is for towing, helps transfer someof the weight to the front and maintain ride and control. My rear springs are the worst of any truck i have ever owned! my truck is rated to tow 10,500 and has the same springs as a normal 1/2 ton. I was up the gm reps hind end trying to get 3/4 ton spring put in it but had no luck. one of these days i will take it to a spring shop and have new ones installed for a couple 100 bucks. IMO this is much better than bags to mess with since its a one time deal, cheeper, and never have to mess with them again.

As for the "street" truck comment, i needed some much more agressive tires due to where i drive on a regualr basis. a full blown lift voids much of the warranty on a truck, you will be constantly hanging parts on it that wear out and the cost is way above a simple lift and level.
I run 33 x 10.50's nitto terra grapler and love them, 45 k out of first set and only replaced them because some gardener left part of his pruners in the road. 4" gash right in the middle of the tire.

i see trucks all day at work, we install ready lift and truxxx kits here and have never had any problems out of them. ready lift is a much better kit and i would go there for the blocks. I make lots of money of my customers with 6" lifts, they really eat up front end parts.

send me your contact info and i can put you in touch with ready lift if you need me to.

 

[Ryan03]

Put a 3" lift kit on my 07 when it had 15k miles on it. It now has 60k on it, i tow my b3030 all over the place and the spring rate did not change at all with the kit, how could it? call ready lift or truxxx and tell them you need blocks for the back and they will ship them to you with new u bolts. Mkae sure you use plenty of anti sieze on the new ubolts before you put them on and make sure the locate hole is well locarted.

The downward slope of the front end is for towing, helps transfer someof the weight to the front and maintain ride and control. My rear springs are the worst of any truck i have ever owned! my truck is rated to tow 10,500 and has the same springs as a normal 1/2 ton. I was up the gm reps hind end trying to get 3/4 ton spring put in it but had no luck. one of these days i will take it to a spring shop and have new ones installed for a couple 100 bucks. IMO this is much better than bags to mess with since its a one time deal, cheeper, and never have to mess with them again.

As for the "street" truck comment, i needed some much more agressive tires due to where i drive on a regualr basis. a full blown lift voids much of the warranty on a truck, you will be constantly hanging parts on it that wear out and the cost is way above a simple lift and level.
I run 33 x 10.50's nitto terra grapler and love them, 45 k out of first set and only replaced them because some gardener left part of his pruners in the road. 4" gash right in the middle of the tire.

i see trucks all day at work, we install ready lift and truxxx kits here and have never had any problems out of them. ready lift is a much better kit and i would go there for the blocks. I make lots of money of my customers with 6" lifts, they really eat up front end parts.

send me your contact info and i can put you in touch with ready lift if you need me to.

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I was speaking in terns of the torsion bar rate in regards to cranking the bolts up or down. I stated that cranking the bolts in does NOT increase the maximum rate of the bars, and turning them down TO FAR would not allow the bars to reach full rate before the suspension compressed comepletely.

 

[FlaDon]

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I was speaking in terns of the torsion bar rate in regards to cranking the bolts up or down. I stated that cranking the bolts in does NOT increase the maximum rate of the bars, and turning them down TO FAR would not allow the bars to reach full rate before the suspension compressed comepletely.

Turned so they are nearly fully compressed is how my 3500 runs. Throw 2000 lbs in the back at the tailgate and it just misses the helper springs and sts level. Throw another 2000 in front of that and it still sits level but now is on the helper springs fairly well. And the ride matches what you get at 2000 lbs at the back. Empty the truck rides hard in the rear.

 

[Ryan03]

Are you speaking of spring rates or wheel travel? The rate will not change, it's built into the bar.

I am speaking of both and the relation one has on the other. To put it another way, if you go to far up or down with the torsion bar adjustment , you are limiting the usabale torsion bar rate you have at your disposal before you reach the mechanical limits of your front wheel travel.