It is OK to use the loader in this way?

[dcyrilc]

newdeal
Go forward and scoop with the bucket to either get a bucket-full, or at least loosen it up. Then drag the loose back with the bottom of the bucket, or drag back with the bucket at half curl.
If you can get on the other side, then scoop forward and dump.

You have the right tool to get that job done without tearing up your machine....I think.

Beenthere has the right idea here. Place your bucket at about a 10-20 degree downward angle. Approach the pile going forward to loosen the dirt and drag across the pile in reverse to spread it. Again with a 10-20 degree down angle. This is the proper way as the angle will let the bucket slide over anything which would have the capability of damaging the FEL. The bucket should slide fairly smoothly across the ground. If the angle is too steep, the bucket will move in a series of small hops (could be as small as 1/16") creating a chattering noise. This creates rapid high stresses to the entire system.

One of the worst things you can do to your FEL is to grade either forward or backwards with the cutting edge of the bucket steep enough that it chatters as it slides across the ground.

With use and paying attention to your machine, you will begin to get a feel for when your angle is too steep for the conditions you are working. As a general rule... the harder the material, the shallower the angle.

 

[Tractor Factor]

1400 feet? I'd say you should buy a box blade, it's really made for a job like that. Given that, as you said, these mounds have already settled and compacted somewhat, that makes it even less suitable a job for the FEL, imo. Maybe you can rent a BB if you don't think you'll ever have use for it again. Or buy one and then resell it on Craig's List if you can't find one to rent.

Back blading with the loader is a really useful function for a number of things...I just spread a load of #1 crushed stone in my driveway this way. Here's a good video of the technique:

YouTube - Kubota BX25 Spreading Gravel

I'm just not sure it's the best way to do your particular job. Of course, that's not to say it can't be done that way, either.

 

[radair]

A couple posters have already said it - keeping the bucket full when backdragging, or when grading in forward, will produce much better results.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have done what you are talking about for years with several BX's, B's and an L. Never damaged any of them ......but..... if I had or you do you will have to pay the piper (repair shop). I've also driven my BX's in tall brush without a MMM and never damaged the plastic fan, but after learning more about it and seeing the job/cost involved in repair I won't do it anymore.
Bottom line, if you don't have a boxblade (in my opinion almost everyone with a FEL should have a boxblade for counter weight if for nothing else) you need to buy one for this job alone. It will do the job so easy and you'll end up with a counter weight for other FEL work. If you don't want to pay the price of a new one, search for a used one. They are almost indestructible so used is OK unless it's pure trash.
Added implements is one of the main featureas of owning a tractor (FEL, MMM, boxblade, grader blade, toothbar, RatchetRake, Back hoe, etc.....
Sure they cost money but aquire the ones you need as you have the job needs.

 

[TripleR]

My experience is pretty much the same as JOHNTHOMAS; been doing this for years on many different tractors and will continue to do so and if I break something, I will fix it. I don't recommend that anyone else do this, but I will. For something like this though wouldn't even try it, go with a box blade/scraper as others have recommended.

 

[American Pit Bull]

It's called back-blading and it is done every day on construction/industrial sites.

You shouldn't have the bucket rolled all the way down... It should be angled just enough that the bucket glides over the surface. Less than a 45° angle.


And no... You do not want to push forward with the bucket rolled down. I have seen both jacks ripped right off of a Bobcat 773 by doing that.

 

[newdeal]

Acrually I do have a box blade on the back for ballast. It seems hard to get the tractor up on the mound enough for it to work quickly. Can someone help me with the technique

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Acrually I do have a box blade on the back for ballast. It seems hard to get the tractor up on the mound enough for it to work quickly. Can someone help me with the technique

Let's see some pics of mound.

 

[Inky05]

Acrually I do have a box blade on the back for ballast. It seems hard to get the tractor up on the mound enough for it to work quickly. Can someone help me with the technique

Check out the "DHD Box Blade" video here:

Everything Attachments - Skid Steer Attachments, Tractor Attachments, 3 Point Hitch Attachments, Farm Tractor Implements.

 

[newdeal]

How would I know if I messed up the hydraulics on the loader? Would they not work anymore or are there other symptoms? When I was using it to dump I think a few times I would lift the empty buccket and the when I dumped if I let off the dump before it hit the end of motion it seemed to flop a little bit. Like after I let off the bucket it wouldn't stop right away there was a bit of motion. Did I mess up a seal in there or something or is that normal?