Hey everyone, I just picked up a superior 18' 10K trailer. The hubs were just rebuilt, brakes and magnets were just replaced also. Three tires are brand new and one is going to need replacing soon. The spare is ok but I wouldn't trust it for more than a spare. The trailer can be either pintle hitch or 2 5/16" ball. What do you all suggest I use? The pintle seems stronger to me but I like the quietness of a ball.....
New to me trailer
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aczlan
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On the tires, I might get 2 new ones and relegate one of your current tires to be a spare. That way you can have the same tire on both ends of each axle.
IMO (assuming that they are both rated for at least 10k) it is six one way and a half dozen the other.
Aaron Z
Diamondpilot
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Many like the pintle but I prefer the ball hitch. I pull trailers upto 25,000# using 2 5/16" ball. Just make sure you get a heavy duty enough hitch, bar, pin, and ball to handle the load.
Chris
Chris
When he replaced the bearings he put on the bearing buddies I think they're called. Do I grease them with the same stuff that is already in the grease gun(synthetic for the loader bushings)? Or should I be getting a special grease for them? How often should I add grease to them? Haha...sorry for all the questions!
Diamondpilot
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With bearings I like to use a grease that is designed for wheel bearings. I have 2 grease guns. I keep a cheap #2 grease for general stuff in one and I like Penzoil Marine grease for all bearings.
As for Buddy Bearings some have a small hole on the side to keep you form over filling it. What it does is as you pump in grease the plunger rises until it gets to the relief hole and then the grease escapes. Some have nothing to do this.
The way I check if it needs greased is to simply put 2 fingers on the plunger at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try rocking it. If it can rock it has enough grease. If not its low on grease and bottomed out and needs serviced.
Chris
As for Buddy Bearings some have a small hole on the side to keep you form over filling it. What it does is as you pump in grease the plunger rises until it gets to the relief hole and then the grease escapes. Some have nothing to do this.
The way I check if it needs greased is to simply put 2 fingers on the plunger at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try rocking it. If it can rock it has enough grease. If not its low on grease and bottomed out and needs serviced.
Chris
Gale Hawkins
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I think may call for repacking about every 50K miles. It would be about every 50 years in my case. 
There are different thoughts on what grease to use. I tend to prefer wheel bearing grease but what is in your gun may be just fine.
The pintle hitch came on our dump truck so I found a trailer with a matching hitch. I think they come 5K to 50K rated.
I do not notice the noise unless it is a very light trailer of I have negative tongue weight. I just pulled and old farm wagon 100 miles and it clucked a lot with the straight pin but the holes in the old wagon (60 years old) were elongated.
When the wagon wheels was repacked is unknown so I checked them about 20 miles down the road after towing at 65 MPH and all four were cool to touch. After that we just drove at the posted speed miles and all was still cool after 100 miles. On a trailer with brakes I think pulling the wheels to check the brakes will be more important and you can check the wheels then.
There are different thoughts on what grease to use. I tend to prefer wheel bearing grease but what is in your gun may be just fine.
The pintle hitch came on our dump truck so I found a trailer with a matching hitch. I think they come 5K to 50K rated.
I do not notice the noise unless it is a very light trailer of I have negative tongue weight. I just pulled and old farm wagon 100 miles and it clucked a lot with the straight pin but the holes in the old wagon (60 years old) were elongated.
When the wagon wheels was repacked is unknown so I checked them about 20 miles down the road after towing at 65 MPH and all four were cool to touch. After that we just drove at the posted speed miles and all was still cool after 100 miles. On a trailer with brakes I think pulling the wheels to check the brakes will be more important and you can check the wheels then.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. Yesterday I switched the trailer over to the ball hitch, now I have changed my mind. I think I will be going back to the pintle hitch. It's much more forgiving when backing up to the trailer. I can be off a bit and it will still slide right on without wrestling the trailer.
I'll pick up another grease gun and some of that marine grease you recommended. Thanks again!
The three new tires on the trailer are a brand called Carlisle, are they a good tire? I don't want to have problems down the road if they are a cheapy tire.
I'll pick up another grease gun and some of that marine grease you recommended. Thanks again!
The three new tires on the trailer are a brand called Carlisle, are they a good tire? I don't want to have problems down the road if they are a cheapy tire.
Diamondpilot
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That is the worst tire on the market hands down. I am sorry to be the bear of bad news but just google it and you will see tons of complaints.
The best tires I have found for replacements is Maxxis and Tow Masters made by Greenball.
Chris
hahaha great....that's just my luck. Well now i'm glad I talked the guy down $500.....I guess I'll replace the one that's bad and get a new spare. I'd like to replace all four but thats just not in the budget right now. I'll use the two new tires on the rear axel and use the new Carlisle as a spare.
Gale Hawkins
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Not everyone agrees with Chris if that helps. They need to be their better line not the cheap ones.
China tires can get a bad rap like Michelin and others. I was reading a story on the subject and a China Rep stated that 80% of the orders from the USA is for their lowest grade tires.
I had to get new tires for our UT and at WM new tires/wheels were $60 each. Across the street the same set up was $49. $60 was for a Load B rated Carlisle and $49 was for a Load C rated Carlisle. The new rims of each source looked the same and was from China.
I agree with the general point that Chris makes but the same line of tires can change in quality and country of orgin so fast these days it is hard to make a blanket statement and it apply.
The key to reducing blowouts per the experts we read is to only load to 80% of the tire Load max at max pressure.
If a trailer is rated at 10K pounds gross and it weights 3000 then you can carry 3.5 ton load on it. That would require Load Range D at 80 PSI based on the tires we have on our four tire trailer because they are at that pressure rated at 3000 pounds at 80 PSI. Each line of tire has this info that applies to it.
What load range is your tires currently and what is the max you can get for that rim?
I understand money is tight but I agree to buy a new set would be preferred. Your idea to put them on the front is great because they impact first with objects.
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