bailer won't tie string on one side
- Thread starter rfrye
- Start date
- Views: 13157
massey driver
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Messages
- 452
- Location
- north of winnipeg canada
- Tractor
- massey 175,1655 BX 2370-1
Knotter's are a funny thing,sometimes a little rust will make them do strange things.Here's a few things you can check hopefully there the same principal as what New Holland knotter's are like.Haven't used the square baler for years so I maybe a bit rusty on stuff.The rollers on the knotter's there brass are they worn down at all. The twine tension spring's where the twine runs thru two plates are they set the same ,after awhile the twine will wear a groove into the plates alowing one side to have less tension on the twine then the other{which of course will make one side longer then the other} Rust on the knotter itself will hang up the twine.sometimes on the knotter itself { the part with a roller on one end and a sort of finger with a hook on the other end get a groove or burr on the hook end it has to be nice and smooth.There's also a twine finger that's supposed to push the knot off the knotter as well make sure there both set the same.Its a pain some times to figure out whats going on just make sure that there not too badly worn out if so then a replacement of parts are needed.The best way is to turn the baler by hand and watch to see whats happening.Sometimes its as simple as turning a nut to loosen tension on a spring.Things have to be clean with no burrs or grooves worn into plates etc where the twine slides thru.I can't really pin point one thing as combination of things can and will make the knotter do strange things.Hope this helps and gets you onto getting it working properly.I used to have a manual with pics of setup but it was in the baler and the mice used it for there home.Larry
Welcome !
Your description of the problem is a bit too general with not enough detail. Lets start from the beginning. Does the twine/string load OK on both twine disks and is held in place tight? When the bale is 1/2 formed, is the twine tension the same on both sides? If you trip the knotter drive manually and roll it thru by hand, do the tucker fingers swing the twine over to park it in the twine disk? Do the billhook jaws open and close as thet twist ? And do the wiper arms slide across the billhook jaw to scrape the knot off? If any of these questions gets a "no" answer, there is a problem. A picture or two of the knotter area during all this would be handy as well as a description of the condition of the twine end (cut, sheared, stretched or just all balled up?) when the knotter drive stops.
Now this may seem very far fetched, but has anybody considered a Skype video call to look into this? I wouldn't mind giving this a shot ! The video calls are free. With a wireless connection and a good camera, I think its possible to do remote baler fixin' using a laptop and the machinery parked near the house !!!
Your description of the problem is a bit too general with not enough detail. Lets start from the beginning. Does the twine/string load OK on both twine disks and is held in place tight? When the bale is 1/2 formed, is the twine tension the same on both sides? If you trip the knotter drive manually and roll it thru by hand, do the tucker fingers swing the twine over to park it in the twine disk? Do the billhook jaws open and close as thet twist ? And do the wiper arms slide across the billhook jaw to scrape the knot off? If any of these questions gets a "no" answer, there is a problem. A picture or two of the knotter area during all this would be handy as well as a description of the condition of the twine end (cut, sheared, stretched or just all balled up?) when the knotter drive stops.
Now this may seem very far fetched, but has anybody considered a Skype video call to look into this? I wouldn't mind giving this a shot ! The video calls are free. With a wireless connection and a good camera, I think its possible to do remote baler fixin' using a laptop and the machinery parked near the house !!!
