The Tractor cave...

   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Jacen,
I'm curious. Are you going to have a garage door opener?

Most of the contractors I've talked to for our house building project wanted at least a 12" clearance between the garage door and the ceiling in order to have room for a garage door opener.

Obed

Right now, I am not... My biggest concern is getting the door open when I have no power...
BUT I have seen been told there are kits that would allow me to put one in just longer that 8 feet back from the door opening.

This is just the shop door...
I was told it is possible by a friend that runs a small construction company.. BUT he also said I would have some challenges.



J
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Great design and good implementation. Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

thanks!

I am planning on going down shortly and hanging 3 or 4 more sheets of drywall and then I will take some pics...

J
 
   / The Tractor cave... #15  
Looks good RadarTech! Eight-foot door here and ROPS clear header by about 1/2". Hope yours allows for a little more clearance.
 
   / The Tractor cave... #16  
I have the "low clearance" (also sometimes called "low lift") doors in the garage attached to the house. The low lift kit has a separate little track at the top for the top roller on the top panel. Officially, it needs 12" of clearance. I had a 9' ceiling and wanted 8.5' doors. Architect talked to salesman who said no problem. The blind leading the blind.

Installer gets there, laughs, tells me about the 12" clearance. He did a great job of squishing everything up tight. I had put blocking on floor trusses which helped him squish stuff in there. So I had the 8.5' doors, but got only 8' 3" clearance. Not what I wanted, but the best that could be done in a bad situation. These were Clopay doors. Good installer, silly sales people (Hmm. is that a redundant statment :laughing:). I have a garage door opener on it. This was in 2007.

"normal" doors officially need 18" of clearance. These are the ones with a single track. They are slightly cheaper than the low lift doors. I have these in my outbuilding garage. I can take a picture of the track if someone wants to see what I'm talking about.

The garage attached to the house is at 1st floor level, and the 1st floor had 9' ceilings. A lot of the time, the garage is at grade and the house is up by 2 feet or more on a foundation giving 10' of clearance in the garage even if you have 8' 1st floor heights.

Pete
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Ok. I hung a little more than 3 or 4 sheets of drywall.. :thumbsup:

Once I got the hang of the lift, the sheets went up quick and easily.

So it is 3 sheets wide in the back, minus about 8 inches on the right side sheet
then I put a single sheet in the front with another 3/4 sheet on the right.
when you look forward. (80 inches by 41 inches.
There is a 24" section I left open so I could cut and open up the door.

So my eighth sheet for the ceiling will get cut in half length wise to fill that gap.

When you look at the messy picture with the nice green $29 wonder ladder, you see the temporary framed in hole for the new garage door.

Here is where I have a little challenge. The opening was originally framed for 8 by 7 foot standard garage door.
I will have to cut the vertical supports where the red line is on the next to last picture.

And then on the last picture you see where I will add a new 2x6 vertically and then put one horizontally to catch the small vertical supports.

I am not worried about supporting the wall all that much as there are 2 engineered and laminated beams up there.
they are side by side together with 2x6 supports on each end -- again 2 thick.

Now on that 24" gap I have to fill with the last bit of drywall....
I plan on putting a 2x4 against the wall above the door to nail the drywall to on the edge.

And 8 inches out is the standard 16" on center joist.
So that 24" of drywall will get support at 0 16 and 24..
My other thought here was that MOST of the stress from the door going up and down will be right there in the curve....

So with this much support I should be good....


The only thought I have for a variation is to change that spacing in the last 24 inches so that the 16 inch joist is at 12 inches..

anyone have a thought on that?

I may also put cross members between those last 3 connection points...

Before I close off the ceiling tomorrow I'll take some pictures of the support members I have from the joists to the support beams for the floor above..


whatcha think?


J
 

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   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I have the "low clearance" (also sometimes called "low lift") doors in the garage attached to the house. The low lift kit has a separate little track at the top for the top roller on the top panel. Officially, it needs 12" of clearance. I had a 9' ceiling and wanted 8.5' doors. Architect talked to salesman who said no problem. The blind leading the blind.

Installer gets there, laughs, tells me about the 12" clearance. He did a great job of squishing everything up tight. I had put blocking on floor trusses which helped him squish stuff in there. So I had the 8.5' doors, but got only 8' 3" clearance. Not what I wanted, but the best that could be done in a bad situation. These were Clopay doors. Good installer, silly sales people (Hmm. is that a redundant statment :laughing:). I have a garage door opener on it. This was in 2007.

"normal" doors officially need 18" of clearance. These are the ones with a single track. They are slightly cheaper than the low lift doors. I have these in my outbuilding garage. I can take a picture of the track if someone wants to see what I'm talking about.

The garage attached to the house is at 1st floor level, and the 1st floor had 9' ceilings. A lot of the time, the garage is at grade and the house is up by 2 feet or more on a foundation giving 10' of clearance in the garage even if you have 8' 1st floor heights.

Pete

RUH ROH..

Could we have had the same sales person????

I would like to see those pics when you get a chance...

Thanks,

J
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#19  
If you need a hand unloading, just let me know. You can just run over here with the truck and I'll help unload.:laughing:

I waited for 2 hours yesterday after I emailed you for that hand unloading 8 sheets of 5/8 in drywall...

Why did you not reply???:D

J
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I tell ya.. I is TIRED..

I hope to have the tractor cave done soon..
then I can start on the wood working shop and other projects....

I do think the drywall for the stairs to the basement is going to be farmed out!

J
 

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