The Tractor cave...
- Thread starter RadarTech
- Start date
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dcyrilc
Super Member
I waited for 2 hours yesterday after I emailed you for that hand unloading 8 sheets of 5/8 in drywall...
Why did you not reply???
J
The internet must be running slow. I haven't got the Email yet.
dcyrilc
Super Member
I rented one of those sheetrock lifts a few years back. They really are a back saver!:thumbsup: About 20 years ago, I sheetrocked a cathedral ceiling by myself with 12 foot sheets and "T" braces. Won't do that again.:laughing:
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
12 foot sheets on a cathedral ceiling? HA.. I did 4 of those suckers on the walls with a helper and I said never again!
well I have to go take that lift back this morning..
Looks like I might do that last part without the lift...
but I have alot of cutting and it has to be back by 9....
J
well I have to go take that lift back this morning..
Looks like I might do that last part without the lift...
but I have alot of cutting and it has to be back by 9....
J
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
thanks!
I'll post some more pics later today..
Although it may be a day off from finishing it...
J
eepete
Platinum Member
Here are some pix:
The first is the low headroom opener with the funny dual tracks. The upper track is just for the topmost panel. You can see how close the spring tensioner is to the ceiling, it's less than half an inch away. This made adjusting difficult since the holes in the tensioner are at 90 degree positions. Now if they put 5 holes in instead of four...
The next shot is the other end of the operation where the tracks end and the lift is mounted. Again, tight work. The length and placement of the small vertical pieces that support the items is another "more difficult" and time consuming instal. This is why 1 foot of clearance is suggested, and why the guy was able to squeeze it in about 9" giving me the extra 3" clearance for a total of about 8' 3".
Next shot is a normal track from my outbuilding on a 10 x 10 door. You can see the single track and all the space used by both the curve of the track and the spring tensioner.
Next, the 10' x 8.5' door had to use a fancy pants (and expensive) opener that works the tensioner spring. The rails are up at the same height as the 10 x 10 for inside clearance reasons and that meant that a normal door opener could not be used. The motor unit top is 3" higher than the pulley on the tensioner, so this does not solve the problem of a standard rail type opener for low ceiling garages. The unit also cost $$s because it needs a lock mechanism (the black brick below the red main unit) to lock the door. It also had a fancy push button device with time and temperature and a motion detector to turn on the light. I guess they figured that since it already cost too much, lets go nuts. The clock can also be used to program automatic open and close times. But they failed to put a capacitor backup for the clock. so if the power is off for a second no clock :confused2:! All that high end jack up the price and they blew it. Another problem with this timed open design is of course that it doesn't know about holidays. They threw in a cheap feature done wrong to jack up the price on an expensive unit. Idiots. Getting off the soap box now...
I do have remote controls for the tractor garage doors in the cab of my tractor. If you're booking passage on the Titanic, why go steerage ?
Last shot is from garage to mud room in the house showing that they are on the same level. The apron into the garage is 24' long and is the ramp for the house. All part of getting ready to get old some year (or on some days, in a few minutes :laughing.
Hope these pix help...
Pete
The first is the low headroom opener with the funny dual tracks. The upper track is just for the topmost panel. You can see how close the spring tensioner is to the ceiling, it's less than half an inch away. This made adjusting difficult since the holes in the tensioner are at 90 degree positions. Now if they put 5 holes in instead of four...
The next shot is the other end of the operation where the tracks end and the lift is mounted. Again, tight work. The length and placement of the small vertical pieces that support the items is another "more difficult" and time consuming instal. This is why 1 foot of clearance is suggested, and why the guy was able to squeeze it in about 9" giving me the extra 3" clearance for a total of about 8' 3".
Next shot is a normal track from my outbuilding on a 10 x 10 door. You can see the single track and all the space used by both the curve of the track and the spring tensioner.
Next, the 10' x 8.5' door had to use a fancy pants (and expensive) opener that works the tensioner spring. The rails are up at the same height as the 10 x 10 for inside clearance reasons and that meant that a normal door opener could not be used. The motor unit top is 3" higher than the pulley on the tensioner, so this does not solve the problem of a standard rail type opener for low ceiling garages. The unit also cost $$s because it needs a lock mechanism (the black brick below the red main unit) to lock the door. It also had a fancy push button device with time and temperature and a motion detector to turn on the light. I guess they figured that since it already cost too much, lets go nuts. The clock can also be used to program automatic open and close times. But they failed to put a capacitor backup for the clock. so if the power is off for a second no clock :confused2:! All that high end jack up the price and they blew it. Another problem with this timed open design is of course that it doesn't know about holidays. They threw in a cheap feature done wrong to jack up the price on an expensive unit. Idiots. Getting off the soap box now...
I do have remote controls for the tractor garage doors in the cab of my tractor. If you're booking passage on the Titanic, why go steerage
?Last shot is from garage to mud room in the house showing that they are on the same level. The apron into the garage is 24' long and is the ramp for the house. All part of getting ready to get old some year (or on some days, in a few minutes :laughing
.Hope these pix help...
Pete
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Are you going to do your own taping and mudding? That's an art in itself.
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
Sure why not!!!!
I bought all the tape and 40 gallons of mud yesterday..
your supposed to cover the entire wall with it right???:thumbsup:
anyway..
I will try my hand at it again..
15 years ago we owned a house down in Beaufort SC that had the "awesome" polybutelene plumbing..
Although we got a free replumb due to a class action lawsuit, I did a little drywall repair and the plumbing crew showed me some tricks.. IF I can only remember them all...
J
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
dcyrilc
Super Member
You have to love those lifts. I know I'll never do a ceiling without one again. Especially when you find out how cheap the rental is on them.
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
dcyrilc
Super Member
If I remember right, mine was about the same. It's been a few years though so the memory could be faulty.:laughing:
dcyrilc
Super Member
What was the purpose for lowering the ceiling?
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
It was not shown in the pics.. but there are at least 20 wires crossing the area below the beams.. and then the fireplace cool air vent...
Beside that, it was easier...:laughing:
J
dcyrilc
Super Member
Makes sense.
dave1949
Super Star Member
Josephus,
That will be a nice place to park your tractor. One suggestion, maybe firemen will chime in here too - put a couple smoke/heat detectors in the space above your lowered ceiling and below the joists. That looks like a nasty fire spot if one ever gets going - you may not know about it for awhile.
Good luck on your mudding. I have no talent for it. Actually hate it.
Dave.
That will be a nice place to park your tractor. One suggestion, maybe firemen will chime in here too - put a couple smoke/heat detectors in the space above your lowered ceiling and below the joists. That looks like a nasty fire spot if one ever gets going - you may not know about it for awhile.
Good luck on your mudding. I have no talent for it. Actually hate it.
Dave.
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
Thanks!
I actually have one sitting on the shelf down there..
Every partitioned area in the basement has a box ready for a Smoke detector!
code wise I was told it is not required but did it anyway...Until I put drywall up....
Jack
eepete
Platinum Member
OP
RadarTech
Elite Member
I should have been more detailed---
not only is there a box, but it is also wired to the central fire alarm system..
the ones where if one goes off they all go off!
J
