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In my book, that is a steal! Wish he were closer, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Ken Sweet
Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Tractor to blow lots of snow
- Thread starter klausb
- Start date
- Views: 19877
Here's a pic from about Easter, about as bad as the road got. Hope this works...
Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery
I'm gonna need a bigger boat, huh?
Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery
I'm gonna need a bigger boat, huh?
rekees4300
Elite Member
Honestly I don't think that tractor is big enough to handle that much snow. Nevertheless it is a good deal and the tractor appears to be in good condition so you could try it for a snow season and if it doesn't work out sell it and get something bigger. You could still call in the reinforcements for the really big snowfalls. I do recommend having some sort of shelter that will at least keep the snow off of it otherwise you will have to dig it out before each use not to mention the problems caused by moisture getting into the electronics.
beenthere
Super Star Member
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- Aug 16, 2001
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- 18,516
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
klausb
That rig would be a step in the right direction.
Throw your snowmobile suit and helmet on for operator comfort.
That rig would be a step in the right direction.
Throw your snowmobile suit and helmet on for operator comfort.
rswyan
Super Star Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
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- 11,376
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
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- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
Yeah ..... one mile long road ...... 500 inches per year ...... yeeaah .....
:I have a similar sized-tractor (Kubota B2910) ..... with a similar-sized snowblower .... although mine is a rear-mount (front-mount will help alot)
I use it on around 900' of driveway ... and we get maybe around 100 or so inches per year .....
The machine you are looking at will probably do it (maybe) .... but the real question is: how much time will it take .... and how much time per snow event are you willing to devote to blowing snow ?
Me, I wouldn't be willing to devote as much time as it's going to take with that piece of equipment ..... and cabless to boot .....
...... say ..... didn't you say something about temps in the -10's and -20's ?
JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
Which canyon are you in....LCC or BCC.??
I was going to say look at the Kubota 3030 with a cab but, after seeing your road lined with snow....man, you have a task at hand.
I still say look at the 3030. Also, ask around to the locals as to which method they use to clear the deep snows that you get.
I do think a tractor is your best investment. If you bought a $30,000 tractor it would be paid off in 5 years at $6,000...the amount you are paying to have it cleared now.
I know first hand how much snow falls in the Wasatch. I skied Utah back in March of '07. The amount of snow there was incredible. And, it is very light in water content which gives it the term....Greatest Snow On Earth.!!
Keep us up to date with your search.
I was going to say look at the Kubota 3030 with a cab but, after seeing your road lined with snow....man, you have a task at hand.
I still say look at the 3030. Also, ask around to the locals as to which method they use to clear the deep snows that you get.
I do think a tractor is your best investment. If you bought a $30,000 tractor it would be paid off in 5 years at $6,000...the amount you are paying to have it cleared now.
I know first hand how much snow falls in the Wasatch. I skied Utah back in March of '07. The amount of snow there was incredible. And, it is very light in water content which gives it the term....Greatest Snow On Earth.!!
Keep us up to date with your search.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
In reverse order, I would go for 4wd w. chains on all four wheels, and turf tires which accommodate chains better than any other tread (IMHO) ...and, if it really is flat, as you say, chains might not even be necessary (as they are for ice and hills).
Next must would be HST (hydrostatic drive), unless you can find a creeper gear and/or are good at replacing clutches. Block heaters work and I would think are a must ...I also have a trickle charger on the battery attached to the same plug as my block heater. Note that some tractors are notorious hard winter starters (Case?) and others take it in stride (Kubota/Deere?)
Another must, winter diesel fuel blend or no.1, which should be what's sold in the winter in your area...and I would use an additive to raise cetane and reduce gelling ...along with a jug of diesel 911 on hand. Depending on how you fill up, a water block filter or some other trick to assure no water in the fuel (e.g., let it sit in your containers and leave the bottom inch, or so, maybe). If I had starting concerns, I would use synthetic oil and lubes, also.
Now find a blower that you think suits your needs and look at its horsepower requirements, which would determine the tractor/HP size. Rear mount is far cheaper per inch...but means you have to look backward...if you can do it in one pass (7-8 foot blower) then that's just 1 mile of backward driving ...two passes 2 miles, etc. On the other hand, a blower on the rear means you can have a front-end-loader (FEL) on the front which is nice for some clearing, and for extricating yourself when 4wd has gotten you into trouble... it's nice for dealing with the end of your lane, where it intersects with the public road, which entrance the municipal plows have filled in for you; and, a backup if your blower gives you a problem.
I would want good work lights front and rear, which may mean a larger alternator (swap in the alternator from the cab version of your tractor...if you don't have a cab). There will be times when you will want to operate at night, I bet.
A cab would be my next consideration ...apparently not a must if you have been snow-mobiling in the past but, still...30 below is a challenge. Yes, you can add it later, but it's never perfect.
I would then make sure I knew enough to change the shear pins, wherever, and swap out the fuel filter (and bleed the system after doing so, if necessary)...getting stuck in the middle of a mile-long unplowed road isn't my idea of fun.
I couldn't see how your lane is demarcated but wands or other visible markers for early in the season would be nice ...especially when driving backwards.
As for the economics, figure out your wished-for rig and look at the (5-yr) finance carrying charges ...if they are about $6k per yr then you are about even, I reckon ...operating costs, fuel and maintenance offset the residual value of the rig after 5 years.
[Kind of a longish answer, but it's 98 degrees here, now, so writin' about snow is satisfying.
Next must would be HST (hydrostatic drive), unless you can find a creeper gear and/or are good at replacing clutches. Block heaters work and I would think are a must ...I also have a trickle charger on the battery attached to the same plug as my block heater. Note that some tractors are notorious hard winter starters (Case?) and others take it in stride (Kubota/Deere?)
Another must, winter diesel fuel blend or no.1, which should be what's sold in the winter in your area...and I would use an additive to raise cetane and reduce gelling ...along with a jug of diesel 911 on hand. Depending on how you fill up, a water block filter or some other trick to assure no water in the fuel (e.g., let it sit in your containers and leave the bottom inch, or so, maybe). If I had starting concerns, I would use synthetic oil and lubes, also.
Now find a blower that you think suits your needs and look at its horsepower requirements, which would determine the tractor/HP size. Rear mount is far cheaper per inch...but means you have to look backward...if you can do it in one pass (7-8 foot blower) then that's just 1 mile of backward driving ...two passes 2 miles, etc. On the other hand, a blower on the rear means you can have a front-end-loader (FEL) on the front which is nice for some clearing, and for extricating yourself when 4wd has gotten you into trouble... it's nice for dealing with the end of your lane, where it intersects with the public road, which entrance the municipal plows have filled in for you; and, a backup if your blower gives you a problem.
I would want good work lights front and rear, which may mean a larger alternator (swap in the alternator from the cab version of your tractor...if you don't have a cab). There will be times when you will want to operate at night, I bet.
A cab would be my next consideration ...apparently not a must if you have been snow-mobiling in the past but, still...30 below is a challenge. Yes, you can add it later, but it's never perfect.
I would then make sure I knew enough to change the shear pins, wherever, and swap out the fuel filter (and bleed the system after doing so, if necessary)...getting stuck in the middle of a mile-long unplowed road isn't my idea of fun.
I couldn't see how your lane is demarcated but wands or other visible markers for early in the season would be nice ...especially when driving backwards.
As for the economics, figure out your wished-for rig and look at the (5-yr) finance carrying charges ...if they are about $6k per yr then you are about even, I reckon ...operating costs, fuel and maintenance offset the residual value of the rig after 5 years.
[Kind of a longish answer, but it's 98 degrees here, now, so writin' about snow is satisfying.
Deadman
Veteran Member
Guys, its a MILE long, and if you look at that pic.....OMG?
I live in Northern Wisconsin, and we get 100 inches per year. Those 20-30HP tractors are NOT gonna cut this job. Snowblowing BIG snows takes extremly slow ground speed, and he would be blowing snow all day.
I would look for something close to 40 HP personally. Otherwise, you'll be out all night blowing snow, and you need to factor your time into this equation.
I live in Northern Wisconsin, and we get 100 inches per year. Those 20-30HP tractors are NOT gonna cut this job. Snowblowing BIG snows takes extremly slow ground speed, and he would be blowing snow all day.
I would look for something close to 40 HP personally. Otherwise, you'll be out all night blowing snow, and you need to factor your time into this equation.
rswyan
Super Star Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2004
- Messages
- 11,376
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
